Simultaneously: from the re-roping point, move towards the summit along a small snow patch (1.5–2 ropes) to reach the base of the rocky ascent. Climb monolithic boulders and the frozen crack beneath it to the summit of the rocky ascent. Then, traverse the ridge, during which the first mandarin is bypassed on the left through rocks, a snow patch, and a slab with a crack (2 ropes, difficult climbing). Then, exit to the 4th mandarin (1 rope) on a crack on the left, and from it, descend 10 m under the wall of the summit tower.
Ascent up the wall through a snowy-icy inner corner:
- straight up 15 m,
- hook belay.
Then, exit left to a platform. From it, move right along a vaguely defined snowy gully (steepness 50°) — 45 m (belay through protrusions). Exit right to a platform, and from it — to a snowy-icy slope with a steepness of 50° (1.5 ropes) and further along slopes of medium difficulty (15 m) — to the ridge.
Along the ridge for 30 m, then:
- 10 m up the wall,
- move left — up (25–30 m) along the left side of the wall (hook belay),
- another 10 m ascent through snow — and exit to the summit.
The entire route takes 9–10 hours. Descent is via the couloir; ascent is up the wall, then down the couloir. In the upper part of the couloir, there is ice (2 ropes).
Climbers' Recommendations:
Equipment for a group of 6 people: 1 set of rock climbing protection — 2 pairs, ice screws — 4 pcs., rock screws — 10–12 pcs.