2B on Maly Zamok, Dugoba, Pamir-Alai. Description

The route to the summit Maly Zamok, 3rd ascent, is categorized as 2B, via the South wall and East ridge, Pamir-Alai, Dugoba. 1st ascent - Bobrov Alexey (Yekaterinburg) +1, May 2012. The approach from the Dugoba alpine camp is similar to the 2A route on M. Zamok via the SE slope and E ridge (classifier section 5.1.1. #31). After the "crossroads of three couloirs," we follow the trail towards the 2A route for 300 m. After 300 m, the trail to 2A turns right onto the ridge, and we go left (a cairn is laid) under the wall. The landmark is a dry tree on the ridge slightly to the right of the start of the route and a large stone plug - directly on the route line. We move left along the scree slope, bypass the rock outcrops, and enter the right onto a ledge under the start of the route. The approach takes 2-3 hours, overall 20-30 minutes less than to the start of 2A. The landmark is a large green arch, from which the route begins (a station on the arch), along the inner corner.

Description

Climbing Route to the Summit "Komsomolskaya"

The summit "Komsomolskaya" is located in a spur of the Kollektor Ridge on a crest branching off to the northeast from the summit Khamza. The height of the summit is 3900 m. The approach to the summit from the alplager "Dugoba" is upstream along the Dugoba River to the confluence of the Ulitor and Ak-Tash rivers (time 2 hours). From the confluence, it is upstream along a narrow gorge, with the summit as a landmark (see the approach diagram). The path through the gorge to the start of the route takes 1.5 hours. Here is a convenient place for a bivouac: plenty of firewood, water, and flat areas. The ascent route begins on a large grassy slope. Time 1 hour. In the upper part, this slope turns into a medium scree, which must be traversed upwards to the right in the direction of the summit. In the upper part of the scree, two large rock outcrops forming a gate serve as landmarks. Time 1 hour. Having passed through these gates, ascend upwards through the left rocky couloir with simultaneous belay. Time 45 minutes. The couloir leads to the pre-summit ridge. Continue moving to the right along the ridge towards the summit. On the ridge, there is a section of smooth rocks with a slope of 30°–40° and a length of 50 m. This section is overcome with alternate belay through outcrops. Rope rails are convenient for a large group. In June, these rocks may be covered with ice. After this section, continue moving towards the summit slightly below the ridge line. Time 30 minutes. The ascent to the summit takes 3.5–4 hours. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route and takes 1.5 hours. The nature of the route is rocky, but early in the summer, snow and ice are possible.

Brief description of the route approach

From Dugoba a/l, follow the trail to the confluence of the Ak-tash and Ulitor rivers, then continue along the Ulitor river trail to the moraine campsite. Then, follow the trail through two moraine ascents to the campsite under the high rocky ridge. From the campsite, ascend the scree gully to the destroyed black rocks and then rightwards along the scree to the rocky slabs. This is the starting point of the route.

MAIN ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS TABLE

Date	Section	Avg. steepness, deg.	Length, m	Terrain type	Difficulty	Condition	Weather	Rop.	Ice	Pit.
25/VII–80 г.	R0–R1	45	160	Rocks	2	Broken	Clear	—	—	—
	R1–R2	30	140	Rocks	2	Broken	—	—	—	—
	R2–R3	40	240	—	3	Broken	—	II	—	—

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Alayskiy ridge (northern spur)
3. Peak: Sauk Jaylyau Western 1st tower via the northern edge (first ascent)
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3A
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 710 m, average steepness 53°, route length details see appendix
6. Pitons used for belays to create I.T.O. rock pitons 31 — ice screws 1 — bolt pitons —
7. Total climbing hours 12

124

Brief description of the approach to the route

From the Dughoba alpine training and sports base, follow the Dughoba River upstream to the Sukhoy Log gorge (1.5–2 km), 15–20 minutes. Here, cross the Dughoba River via a bridge to the right (orographic) bank. Then ascend Sukhoy Log to the ridge between the peaks Maly Zamok (3450 m) and Glavny Zamok (3943 m). The ascent takes 2.5–3 hours. From the ridge, descend to the right via a trail, bypassing the cirque without significant loss of elevation, to the opposite slope. Then traverse northward across scree slopes to a couloir descending from Peak Khurdzhum S. (3600 m) — 300–350 m. Ascend the scree-filled couloir 60–70 m upward and traverse across scree shelves 120 m northward to a "cork" (a huge overhanging rock, 15×10 m in size). The route then proceeds upward to the left, onto the cork and to the 3rd ridge from the crest. Overall, the approach from the Dughoba alpine base to the start of the route takes 5–6 hours. V. Kislyakov, L. Stolyarenko, P. Dedorov, V. Shadrin. May 10, 1987 (Dugobich). 450 m, 150°, 32 pitches, 18 hours.

Scheme of the climbing area

Route diagram on Peak Khurdzhum Gl. in UIAA symbols WESTERN RIDGE R10: 40 m, 40°, 2, difficulty category 2

Ascent Passport

Technical

1. Ascent class: Technical
2. Ascent area (according to KTMGV): Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge, Koksu Valley
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Unnamed "N" 4600 m Eastern ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category: 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 650 m average steepness 45° section length: I 220 m, II 300 m, III 160 m, IV 200 m, V 25 m, VI 1 m

Ascent Log

1. Climbing category — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — southern spurs of the Alay mountain range, Levin'skaya Glacier.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — 50 let Uzbekistana, 4650 m, via the "sickle" of the N–E wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B category, No. 453 dated February 28, 1978.
5. Route characteristics — rock climbing, height difference 850 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty 240 m, average steepness of the route 50°. Total length 1190 m.
6. Number of pitons: for belaying, for creating artificial holds | | | For belaying | For creating artificial holds | | :---------- | :---- | :----------- | :----------------------------- | | rock | — | 88 | 4 |

Brief description of the approach to the route. From the base camp at Kozhdeba meadow up to the bridge over the Kok-su River. Then along the left bank of the Begichi River on a horse trail. The trail:

• crosses to the right bank;
• then back to the left;
• and leads to a talus cone overgrown with grass (1.5 hours walk from the base camp). From the base of the cone to the right - upwards is a couloir. The summit at 4080 m is visible. Ascent via the couloir (along the old stream bed) to the start of the route. Route main characteristics table

Approaches to the route.

The 4470 m peak closes the main spur of the Guamysh ridge, which branches off in the northern direction and separates the Nizhny Guamysh glacier from the glacier in I. Enumeration:

• Main spur of the Guamysh ridge
• Direction — northern
• Separation of the Nizhny Guamysh glacier from the glacier in I From the base camp, located below the Guamysh pass, move along the trail to the right along the Guamysh river, approaching the entrance of the Nizhny Guamysh glacier. From here, the North spur of the peak is visible, the path to which goes along the lateral moraine and further along the main slope. The journey from the base camp to the start of the route takes 3–3.5 hours.

Brief explanation for the route table.

The ascent along the snow-ice slope (section I–II, II–III, III–IV) bypassing the rock wall, which ends the North edge of the peak, passes in close proximity to 64 eq. and leads to the ridge. Above the ridge, a powerful rock wall overhangs. Here is the first control point. The wall is bypassed on the left along an inclined shelf with piton belay and further the rock wall leads to the right onto the edge with gendarmes, turning into a destroyed edge, which ends with a sheer wall. The wall is bypassed on the left along the snow and then along the inclined rock shelf, resting against the rock wall (section I–II). Further along the inclined stepped shelf with small walls, we exit onto the edge between two gendarmes. The first gendarme is climbed "head-on", the second is bypassed on the left. From the gendarme along the main edge — the exit to the summit.

The peak Otkrytiya Olimpiady-80 (4680 m) is located in a lateral spur of the Guamysh ridge (Pamir-Alay). The ridge of the peak is oriented from north to south. The northern ridge of the peak connects to the peak 4540 m, the southern one - to the peak 4851 m.

• From the east, the peak is a wide rock massif with steep walls.
• To the west, a snowy slope descends from the peak, ending in walls. The peak is composed of red granites with individual shale inclusions, relatively little destroyed. According to a preliminary assessment, routes from 2B to 5A category of difficulty can be laid to the peak.
• along the northern ridge - 2B category of difficulty;
• along the southern ridge - 3A ≥ 3B category of difficulty.
• along the western counterfort - 4A–4B category of difficulty.
• along the eastern wall - 5A category of difficulty.