The peak Otkrytiya Olimpiady-80 (4680 m) is located in a lateral spur of the Guamysh ridge (Pamir-Alay). The ridge of the peak is oriented from north to south.
The northern ridge of the peak connects to the peak 4540 m, the southern one - to the peak 4851 m.
- From the east, the peak is a wide rock massif with steep walls.
- To the west, a snowy slope descends from the peak, ending in walls.
The peak is composed of red granites with individual shale inclusions, relatively little destroyed.
According to a preliminary assessment, routes from 2B to 5A category of difficulty can be laid to the peak.
- along the northern ridge - 2B category of difficulty;
- along the southern ridge - 3A ≥ 3B category of difficulty.
- along the western counterfort - 4A–4B category of difficulty.
- along the eastern wall - 5A category of difficulty.
The group from the Alay tourist center, consisting of: I. Morev N.B. - 1st sports category
- Timofeev A.V. - Master of Sports
Under the supervision of Ivanov A. and Jamaspishvili A., on April 19, 1980, made the first ascent to the peak with a height of 4680 m along the eastern counterfort. The ascent was made on the day of the opening of the Olympics in Moscow, and in connection with this event, it is proposed to name the peak "Otkrytiya Olimpiady-80". Based on the experience of the participants in the ascent, the route can undoubtedly be classified as 4A category of difficulty. It is much more complicated than similar 4A category routes previously climbed by the participants, such as:
- routes to the peak Boks in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too
- routes to the peak Kommunizm in the Trans-Ili Alatau.
The route is relatively safe and can be recommended for both sports and training groups.
Description of the approach to the route
From the base camp located below the Guamysh pass, cross the Guamysh river along a log and ascend a gentle grassy slope from right to left towards the tongue of the Tashkentsy glacier (45 minutes).
Ascend a gentle moraine to the glacier and continue moving along the right (in the direction of travel) part of the glacier. The glacier is open, without crevasses, and relatively flat. The glacier is bounded by a very characteristic beautiful peak 4820 m.
Passing under the steep eastern wall of the peak Otkrytiya Olimpiady-80, approach the base of a wide snowy cone. In its upper part, the cone ends with a characteristic black cave.
Here is the start of the route.