5. Height difference — 1800 m, average steepness — 42°, length of sections 6 — 40 m, steepness 80°. 5 — 570 m.
6. Pitons driven: | Ice screws | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolt pitons | | :-----: | :------: | :-------: | :---------: | | 187 | 25 | 51 | 0 | | 0 | 0 | 2 | 0 |
7. Total travel time — 23 hours.
8. One bivouac on Katyn Plateau — on ice.
9. Leader: Sergey G. Bayanin Master of Sports of the USSR Team members:

99. The North summit of Kayashkishubashi via the North-Eastern buttress - Cat. 1B (G. Stepanov, Yu. Vuslik, O. Degtyarev, V. Eremeev, V. Ershov, V. Kompanovsky, V. Kos, O. Lomakin, D. Muzhev, V. Nagolny, A. Snesarev and R. Khabatov - December 7, 1955, Fig. 33). From Mukhol village, follow the pack trail up, then along the slope of the right bank of the Chainashki river. At the foot of Chuprobashi peak - bivouac. From Mukhol village - 6-7 hours. From the bivouac, ascend the scree, then the snowy slopes to a wide couloir. Ascend the right side of the couloir; 60-70-meter "sheep's foreheads" in the middle part of the couloir are traversed via the central gully; further ascent on scree leads to the Eastern snow cirque formed by Kayashkishubashi and Chuprobashi peaks. Traverse the scree, then the snow-ice fields and slopes of the Unnamed glacier left-upwards, below the left slopes of the North-Eastern buttress of Kayashkishubashi peak. Below the buttress - bivouac. From the first bivouac - 7-8 hours. From the plateau, ascend simple and moderately difficult rock terrain ("live" rocks!) to the North-Eastern buttress of the peak. Along the edge of rocks and snow, in places via broken simple rocks, ascend to the summit rock pitch, 30-40 meters, and via it (belay!) reach the North summit of Kayashkishubashi. From the bivouac below the buttress - 3-4 hours. Descent via the ascent route to the bivouac below the buttress - 1.5-2 hours. Recommendations for climbers:
100. Number of participants - 4-20 people.
101. Initial bivouac - grassy slopes, Chuprobashi peak.
102. Departure time - 4-5 am.
103. Equipment: main rope - 2×30 m; auxiliary cord - 1.5 m; rock pitons - 2-3; rock hammer - 1; carabiners - 7-8; tent - 1.
104. Bivouac locations - on the Unnamed glacier and on simple rocks of the North-Eastern buttress.

Climbing Passport

• Climbing area: Central Caucasus, Lateral Ridge, Krumkol glacier gorge. Section number according to KMGV: 2.5
• Peak: Koshtantau 5151 m, via the Southwest slope.
• Difficulty category: 4B, 3rd ascent *.
• Route type: ice and snow.
• Height difference: approximately 1400 m.
• Route length: approximately 2 km, including 50 m of ice sections with a steepness of 50–55°, 500 m with a steepness of 40–45°; 750 m of snow and ice sections with a steepness of 30–40°.
• Number of pitons used (during ascent): ice screws - 39.
• Number of climbing hours to the summit - 16, reaching the summit on the second day of ascent (11:00), descent via the ascent route - 11 hours.
• Number of bivouacs - 2 (1 on the ascent route and 1 on the descent, at the same location).

Dedicated to the 40th anniversary of the Communist Party of Ukraine

Report on the Traverse of Koshtan-Tau Massif

Kiev Regional Council DSO "Avangard"

Table 1

Composition of the Assault Group

2. Traverse of Koshtan-Tau Massif

On August 2, the group led by Master of Sports of the USSR Fomenko Ya. A. returned from the northern ridge of Koshtan-Tau, while another group led by Master of Sports Ovcharov V. V., having made a supply drop of equipment and food under the wall of Koshtan-Tau, returned to base camp No. 4. Ovcharov's group did not process the wall due to lack of visibility; the wall was shrouded in fog. On August 3, Fomenko Ya. A. and Kashin I. A. reconnoitered the lower part of the wall.

Ascent of Koshtan-Tau via the Southeast Ridge with descent along the North Ridge

Accomplished by the MGS DSO "Trud" team under the leadership of MS USSR A. Naumov. Tikhonov Peak Koshtan-Tau from the south (from the Spartak Pass)

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent object

The Koshtan-Tau massif, with a height of 5151 m, is located in the northern spur of the central part of the Main Caucasian Range, and together with the peaks:

• Dykh-Tau,
• Mizhirgi,
• Krumkol,

Report

On the first ascent of Peak Koshtan-Tau via the Southwest Ridge wall, done in 1971 for the USSR Championship in the category of technically complex ascents

Kuibyshev, 1971

Alpine Characteristics of the Region

The Bezengi region is the true center of the Central Caucasus. It is home to almost all of its five-thousanders (except for the extinct volcanoes Elbrus and Kazbek). The region has a very complex geological structure, was uplifted during the last Quaternary phases of the Alpine four-axle Fogenesis and is one of the most interesting regions in terms of alpinism. The intense glaciation from the north, the steepness of the rock walls from the south, and the vast extent of possible paths from any side attract groups of qualified climbers. The climate of this region is harsh, which is explained not only by the large elevation compared to other Caucasus regions but also by the location of the surrounding ridges. The unsettled weather here is the result of:

• the penetration of air flows from the south;
• abundant local evaporation;

I. Group Composition

The ascent was made by a group from the LОС DSO "TRUD" with the following composition:

• 1. VASILYEV B.P. — team leader, 1st sports category
• 2. ROMANENKO N.P. — participant, 1st sports category
• 3. SOLONNIKOV V.A. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports
• 4. ZHITENEV F.N. — participant, 1st sports category
• 5. BERGILESSOV F.V. — participant, 1st sports category
• 6. MYASNIKOV V.S. — participant, 1st sports category This composition was planned according to the application, and during the preparation and execution of the ascent, it remained unchanged.

II. Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Route

80

Description of the Ascent Route to Koshtan-Tau Peak (5144 m) via the Central Counterfort of the North Face (First Ascent)

The ascent to Koshtan-Tau (5144 m) from the north via the central counterfort was accomplished between July 11 and 16, 1969, by a group from the LОС DSO TRUD, consisting of:

1. Nosov A.P., CMS - leader
2. Dreitser V.D., CMS - participant
3. Shymelis V.P., CMS - participant
4. Kosobokov L.I., 1st sports category - participant
5. Kuritsyn I.F., 1st sports category - participant Koshtan-Tau (5144 m) is located in the northern spur of the central part of the Main Caucasian Range and is one of the highest peaks in the Caucasus. From the north, several routes have been ascended and classified to the summit: 4B-5B category of difficulty. The path chosen by the group via the central counterfort of Koshtan-Tau's north face had long attracted the attention of Leningrad climbers, but in 1964, it was ascended by Czechoslovakian climbers, although they left no information about their ascent.

Koshtan, right spur of the North wall (Kolchin, 1989)

Initial bivouac on the fourth step of the Kundu-Mizhyrgi glacier under the N wall of Koshtan. Altitude 4000 m. The route starts with crossing the bergschrund under the rocky spur in the middle between the rocks of the Simonik route and the rocks of the Kalishevsky ridge. After the bergschrund, the ice slope goes straight up to the left of the rocky island (sect. R0–R1, 200 m, 50°, 5th grade of difficulty). Through the ice-covered rocks (sect. 1–2, 20 m, 70°, 5B grade of difficulty) the route crosses the rocky ridge and goes up to the right above the ridge along the ice slope (sect. 2–3, 150 m, 50°, 5th grade of difficulty) with crossing ridges, leading under a large

The summit of Dzhailyk has a 4B category of difficulty, the nature of the route is combined. The summit of Dzhailyk is located on the sixth north-western Adyr spur. To the east of Dzhailyk (in the eastern branch) lies the summit of Cheget-bashi, to the south lies the summit of Kichkidar, and to the west lies the summit of Tyu. The summit of Dzhailyk is surrounded by glaciers: the eastern and western ones, as well as the northern Pnom-Su. Three ridges branch out from the summit of Dzhailyk:

• to the Donkina pass,
• the eastern one - towards the glacier of the summit Dzhailyk Kinchat,
• the western one - turning into a long rocky fence, separating the glaciers of the western Dzhailyk and the northern Pnom-Su. To the north-east, Dzhailyk drops with sheer walls and steep slopes, falling into the ridge between the massifs of Dzhailyk and Tyu-Tyu-S. The route begins with an overnight stay on the Black Rocks in their branch from the western ridge to Dzhailyk, in the form of a short, barely noticeable rocky ridge. From the overnight site, it goes towards the main western ridge. At the beginning, the path goes along broken rocks to the first "gendarmes", which is bypassed on the left along a steep snow-ice slope. Above the "gendarmes" there is a snow shelf, then a simple rocky ridge of broken rocks begins. The length of this section of the ridge is 35-40 m. Having passed this ridge, they reach the second "gendarmes" with sheer walls to the north-west and east. This "gendarmes" is bypassed on the left along a snow-ice couloir. Having passed 35-40 m along the couloir, one should climb up a 5-meter sloping shelf, leading to a gentle slab. From the slab: