Fig. 18

1. Ascent to the summit of Zadnaya Belalakaya (3740 m) — category 2A difficulty (fig. 18, A)

From Dombay plain across the bridge over the Alibek river and along the trail to the stream, descending from the large Belalakaya couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend 300–350 m up. Then left into the Sofrujinsky couloir (rockfall hazard!) and up along it to a large overhanging rock. Further left-up along the steep section of the couloir to the trail and along it to the Medvezhья (Bear) clearing. From the Medvezhья clearing, first through alpine meadows (trail), then through snow and 300–350 m along the eastern slopes of Belalakaya to the Sofrujinsky bivouac. From Dombay plain 5–6 hours. From the bivouac (in rope teams!) along the Sofrujinsky glacier to the north-eastern ridge of Zadnaya Belalakaya. Exit to the ridge from the right in the lower part (bergschrund, protection!) and further to the right — up to the ridge saddle. From the saddle directly along the destroyed and loose rocks of the ridge to a ledge and along it to a couloir. Up the couloir to two rock outcrops left of the ridge inflection and exit to the ridge. Along the right side of the ridge up to the second outcrop of the crest. Behind it — to a wide couloir, then up to the ridge inflection and along the right side of the crest — exit to the summit.

• From the bivouac: 3–4 hours
• The entire route is rockfall hazardous!

Fig. 32

5. Ascent to the Western peak of Dzhuguturluchat (3700 m) from the north — category (Fig. 32)

From Dombayskaya Polyana, follow the trail to the crossing over the Dombay River (2 hours). After crossing the river, ascend via grassy slopes, scree, and "ram's foreheads" on the left side of the Iné Glacier. Ascend up the glacier to a snow plateau, then move right towards the "ram's foreheads," and ascend them to the scree. Continue left along the massif of Pik Iné to the first glacial couloir (be cautious of rockfall danger from Pik Iné!). Ascend the couloir left of Pik Iné to the col. Characteristics of the couloir:

• Lower section: ice and snow (ice in the second half of summer)
• Upper section: rocky
• Traverse in a rope team (danger of rockfall!) The col is a suitable bivouac site. From Dombayskaya Polyana, 7–8 hours. From the col, ascend via a glacier crevassed in some areas and a snow plateau to the right, towards the northern ridge of the Western peak of Dzhuguturluchat. Ascend a steep snow slope on the left side of the ridge to a 5-meter rusty wall with a slope of 80°. Ascend the wall (2 pitons) and continue via loose rocks, slabs, and a crevice on the left side of the ridge to a 3-meter loose wall. Pass through it to a platform (suitable for bivouac). From the platform, ascend to a wide ledge and along it to the left to a double crevice. After 20 meters in the crevice, exit to a small ridge notch descending from the peak to the northeast. Continue traversing left on ledges through a ridge crest, then again on ledges to the eastern ridge and along it to the right to the summit. From the col, 6–7 hours. Almost the entire path is prone to rockfall! Descent follows the ascent route, 4–5 hours. Use rappelling on steep sections.

Ascent Passport

1. Main Caucasus Range, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, Ptysh river gorge, No. 2.2 according to KVGK.
2. Dombay Western peak, via the northwest wall cleft. The ascent is dedicated to the memory of climber-warriors who perished in the Caucasus mountains during the Great Patriotic War.
3. Proposed category of difficulty: 6B — first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route height difference: 1104 m. Route length: 1240 m. Length of sections: category V — 350 m, category VI — 460 m. Average slope: 82 ° for the main part of the route, 72 ° for the entire route.
6. Number of pitons left on the route: 25 total, including 21 bolts.

Fig. 26

2. Tra­verse of Sofru­dzhu peak from the north-east — category 2B (fig. 26)

From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana across the bridge over the Ali­bek river and along the trail to the crossing over the Ama­nauz river. Crossing to the right bank, then along the mo­rena and over the "baa­ran­y lby" to the Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier, and along it to the ter­mi­nal mo­rena under the Zapad­no-Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier. Camping site. From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana — 3–4 hours. Further (in con­nec­tion!) as­cend to the Ama­nauz pass be­tween the peaks Glav­ny Ama­nauz and Sofru­dzhu. As­cend along the right side of the heav­ily cre­vassed gla­cier, then, in the up­per part, un­der the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub exit to the mid­dle of the gla­cier, as snow ava­lanch­es are pos­si­ble from the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub. Along the mid­dle of the gla­cier up to the bergschrund, cross the bergschrund over a snow bridge and up the steep snow slope (50°) to the pass. Exit to the pass to the left of the rocky out­crop at the pass point.

M22. Gvandra Main — East

(combined route, cat. difficulty) See routes M14, M16, M18 — M20.

• when moving from the Central summit, pass the gap in the upper part of the ice couloir descending into it;
• when descending from the East summit, be careful, especially in bad weather, — one can end up on a slope that descends from the pre-summit to the right, which is very similar in its character to the correct slope leading towards Ak-Tyube pass. The false slope ends in ice-serac falls!
• departure time from Myrdy bivouac — at 2–3 a.m.;
• it takes 12–14 hours to complete the route;
• the traverse can be planned with an intermediate bivouac on the Gvandra ridge.

Dalar Uzunkol — description of the 4A climbing route from SK Greta

Approach via the Zapadny Dalar glacier to the slopes of the Dalar pass. Ascend to the pass along a snowy slope (35–45°) with a bergschrund, which is overcome via a bridge or ravine. On the pass, under the rock outcrops of the Kirpich summit ridge, is a bivouac site. From the pass, descend south, then along ledges and slopes, bypass the southern counterfort of Maly Dalar. Along snowy slopes, ascend under the rocks leading to the saddle between Maly Dalar on the left and Dalar on the right. Ascent to the saddle:

• Initially, it goes along small ledges, then along an internal angle with a stop R1.

Ak-Bashi from Ak Pass, combined, 2A

Route description:

From "Trud" campsite ascend snowy talus slopes to the foot of Ak Pass. Reach the pass via talus slope with small ledges. From the pass, follow the ridge left, bypassing the first sentinel on the right. In the first half of summer, when the ledges are covered with snow, the sentinel is ascended "head-on" along its crest. Then, via ledges right of the ridge, reach its snowy section. Ascend 400-meter snowy ridge to a saddle before the first summit. The summit is ascended via broken rocks. Descend from the summit into a gap along the right side of the ridge (loose rocks!). From here, via talus gully and broken ridge, ascend the main summit of Ak-Bashi. 6 hours from the campsite. Descent from the summit via the ascent route to the campsite takes 3 hours.

• Departure time from the campsite should be no later than 5:00;
• Ascending to Lozhny Ak Pass is not recommended as snow slabs are possible on the slope at the beginning of summer, and a steep glacier becomes exposed by the pass in autumn.

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge
3. DALAR via north-eastern edge (Stepanov's route)
4. Category 5B, combined
5. Height difference: 1200 m, length 1500 m, length of category 5-6 sections – 840 m. Average steepness of main sections 80° (3000–3900), including category 5 sections 85° (3400–3600, 3750–3900)
6. Pitons hammered in: rock 94/16, bolted –/–, "friends" 36/4, ice 7/–
7. Team's travel hours: 28 and days – 2
8. Overnights: 1 – on moraine on the right side of North Dalar glacier, 2 – on "sheep's foreheads" above the third belt (sitting), 3 – on Dalar pass.
9. Leader: Timoshenko V.N. – 1st sports category, participants: Shuralev S., Prasol I., Zheleznyak S. – 1st sports category

St. Petersburg Alpinism Championship. Category — High-Altitude Technical 2024

Report on the Ascent to Dalar Peak (3988 m) via the Northeast Ridge (V. Stepanov Route, 1962), 5B Category of Difficulty, Combined Terrain

The route was completed by the team from the Alpine Club of St. Petersburg, "OGK" association. Team Captain: A.V. Kichurchak.

Ascent Passport

Ascent to the summit Zamok 3981 m via the northwestern ice-snow wall, approximately 5A category of difficulty. The first passage of the specified route was made in 1977 by a team from the "Uzunkol" camp, consisting of:

• Korablin B.N. - Master of Sports of the USSR - leader
• Oshche E.A. - Candidate Master of Sports
• Rybakov M.I. - Candidate Master of Sports
• Popov V.I. - Candidate Master of Sports

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class - ice-snow
2. Ascent area - Western Caucasus, Gvandra region