Peak Konstitutsii Kazakhstana (4709 m)

Traverse from northwest to southeast, route 4A cat. difficulty (Fig. 1). The summit named Konstitutsii Kazakhstana is located in the main ridge of Zailiysky Alatau, in the immediate vicinity of the northward spur that separates the Dmitrieva and Konstitutsii glaciers and is also named Konstitutsii. The traverse route begins from the initial bivouac on the right-bank moraine of the Konstitutsii glacier. From the bivouac, cross the glacier (cautiously: crevasses!) towards the northwest ridge of Peak Konstitutsii. When ascending the ridge, follow the western edge as the slope is quite steep and avalanche-prone (45°). There are areas with flow ice. In the middle part of the edge, bypass a large bergschrund with step-cutting and thorough belaying. The steepness here is 60–65°. Further, the edge rises steeply. At the end of the season, it becomes entirely icy. Overcoming the edge requires 7–8 ice screws for belaying. The exit to the ridge is uncomplicated. On the first gendarme, there's a control cairn. The total length of the ridge is about three kilometers, with steepness in some areas reaching 50–60°. To the south, there are overhanging cornices. The ridge has many small drops and two dips. Descend into the first dip, after passing the second gendarme on the left side, via the slabs. The ascent from the dip is difficult and requires thorough belaying. Initially, it goes along a snowy slope with a steepness of up to 55°, then the slope becomes icy, with a steepness of up to 60°. The ascent length is 100–120 m. Further, the ridge becomes somewhat gentler, very narrow, with steep slopes on both sides. This section of the ridge should be traversed very cautiously, walking along the ridge crest for 150–170 m. Some sections are traversed in a "penguin-like" manner.

Route Description

Peak Kosmodemyanskaya is located in the western branch of the Malo-Almatinsky ridge, which is a watershed of the Malaya and Bolshaya Almatinka rivers. Ridges stretch from it to the northeast, northwest, and south. On the northeastern side, a small eponymous glacier descends from its slopes. The initial bivouac is organized on the platforms among the ancient moraine ramparts of the Molodezhny glacier. Then:

• Go to the left lateral moraine of the Tuyuk-Su glacier and along it — to the Kosmodemyanskaya glacier.
• Ascend to the upper snow plateau.
• Move along the ridge between the first and second gendarmes to the very summit. From the saddle:
• Ascend along the large talus to the right rib of the second gendarme.

North­ern Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Manshuk Mametova via the North Face

25 category of difficulty

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — North­ern Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloye Almatinskoye gorge.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Manshuk Mametova via the north face.
3. Proposed: 2B cat. diff.
4. Character of the route: combined
5. Height difference of the route: 350 m

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area
2. Northern Tian-Shan, 7.2. 251 Trans-Ili Alatau ridge, Maloalmatinskoye gorge, Tuyuk-Su.
3. Molodezhnaya peak 4147 m, via the "knife" on the left part of the North wall
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 2B. First ascent.
5. Route character — ice and snow.
6. Elevation gain — 500 m.
7. Route length — 1000 m.
8. Used on the route: ice screws — 48, rock pitons and protection elements — 0, bolt pitons — 0.

North Tien Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau

Peak Ordzhonikidze

via the right part of the North Face Category 4B difficulty

Ascent Passport

1. Type of ascent: technical
2. Ascent area: North Tien Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe gorge
3. Peak, route: Peak Ordzhonikidze (4410 m), via N slope, first ascent.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 4B, combined
5. Elevation gain: 600 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent region: North Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloe Alma-Atinskoe gorge
3. Peak, route: Ordzhonikidze Peak (4410 m), via S slope, first ascent.
4. Presumed category of difficulty: 4B, combined
5. Height difference: 600 m total route length — 840 m, wall section length — 720 m, of which 5th category of difficulty — no, 6th category of difficulty — no, average steepness of wall section — 60°, average steepness of route — 50°
6. Pitons driven (figures in denominator — for ITI): rock — 6/0, ice — 47/0, chocks — 0, bolt pitons — 0
7. Number of climbing hours/days: 8 hours/1 day

Partizan ZB c.l. via North-West face

Route description.

The ascent begins by approaching the north-west face of the peak via the Igly Tuyksu glacier. Here, on the moraine, is a convenient location for the initial bivouac. The route starts with an ascent up a firn slope, leading to a couloir (steepness 30–35°, prone to rockfall). After ascending 200 m, turn into the right branch of the couloir, cross it in its lower part, and exit to the right onto a rocky ridge, continuing along it. Certain sections require careful belaying. In the lower part of the ridge, the rocks are smoothed, and small terraces are encountered. After 50 m, there's an exit to difficult, sheer rocks. Piton belay is necessary (3–4 pitons). Further, for 100 m, the route follows rocks of medium difficulty to a saddle, where the right and left ridges, forming the couloir, converge. Then, there's a section of easy rocks, with scree and snow intermixed, leading to the most challenging, key section of the ascent. There are two options for overcoming this segment of the route:

• The first is a 60 m ascent up the rear, icy wall of the chimney (steepness 65–70°). It requires step-cutting and piton belay.
• The second is an ascent to the left up the chimney, which is no more than one and a half meters wide and has a steepness of 70°. The chimney is clogged with snow and ice, blocked by plugs, stacked one above the other. The height of the chimney to the plugs is 10–12 m. The first plug is passed on the left, the second on the right. Belay is via pitons.

Partizan ZB category via South-East Ridge

Route description.

The approach to the route is through Tuyuksu or Igly Tuyuksu passes. The initial bivouac is on the moraine of the Yuzhny Partizan glacier. From here, head to the saddle between the first and second towers of the south-eastern ridge. The path lies along the snowy and icy slopes. Before reaching the saddle:

• Turn left towards the couloir
• Exit the couloir onto the ridge above the two characteristic rock outcrops
• Control point is located here Further:
• Traverse left along the not very distinct ledges
• Approach the internal corner, which ends with a 7-meter wall

4.2.156

Description of the ascent to Peak Paustovsky via the north-eastern ridge

We reach the Paustovsky glacier via moraine. The glacier cirque is bounded by a very steep rocky-ice wall. The upper part of the glacier is steep and gradually turns into the wall. Crampons are necessary here, and the last 30 meters require step cutting. We reach steep rocks in the right part of the wall. The wall has an overall steepness of about 75°. It consists of two sheer sections, each 30 meters long. The rocks are heavily destroyed, requiring piton belay. Beyond the rocks, a steep ice ascent begins. It is overcome with crampons and leads to the saddle between Peak Paustovsky and the Viewpoint peak. After ascending the north-eastern ridge, one should:

• traverse a steep snowy slope to the left;
• move to the eastern ridge of the summit. We traverse 250 m of easy to medium rocks and reach the pre-summit plateau. The ascent to the summit is made from the left along easy rocks and snow. Descent is via the Viewpoint peak. The entire route from the start of the moraine and descent takes about 10 hours. The group requests to evaluate the route as category 3A.

Report on the ascent via the Central Bastion of the northern wall of Peak Burovsky (via the center of the bastion)

List of participants in the assault group

TABLE of the main characteristics of the ascent route to Peak Burovsky via the Central Bastion of the northern wall.

• Height difference of the route: 1060 m
  • Including the most challenging sections: 410 m
• Steepness of the route: 80–90°
  • Including the most challenging sections: 80–90° | Date | Section № | Steepness of the section | Height of the section, in m | Terrain characteristics | Technical difficulties | Type of belay | Weather conditions | Departure time | Time of stopping at bivouac | Travel hours | Rock pitons | Ice screws | Bolts | Dural and wooden wedges | Bivouac conditions | Weight of daily ration, in grams |