40. Peak Tikhonov via NW ridge — 4A cat. diff. (V. Lubenets, V. Volchenko, L. Kalishevsky, I. Kunaev, V. Lebedev, V. Nikolaenko, A. Ovchinnikov and A. Sevostyanov — August 23, 1951). The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the overnight stay on the Southern ridge of the Utug spire is described in route 18. From the overnight stay:

• Descent to the glacier above the third stage of the icefall
• Crossing the glacier to the right towards the Northern counterforce of Peak Tikhonov
• Through the bergschrund — ascent up the steep 150-meter snowy slope to the saddle

23 Ulluuuz via the E slope of the W ridge — 5A cat. diff. (V. Samokhvalov, A. Ryabukhin, Yu. Slezin and O. Trubnikov — August 7, 1964). The path from the "Bezengi" alp camp to the Severny Ulluuuz glacier see in description 12. On the moraine of the glacier under the slopes of the Archimedes peak — a bivouac. From the bivouac (in teams and with crampons!) across the glacier and then up, 200–250 m to the right of the lower rocky outcrop. Through the bergschrund, ascent straight up 700–800 m along the ice-snow slope, then — along a not very pronounced couloir, to the right of the second triangle of the rocky outcrop (insurance! avalanches!) — with an exit to the snow plateau of faults above the triangular rocky outcrop. From the plateau:

• ascent along the snow slope through the bergschrund;
• further along the snow-ice slope 200–250 m up to the lower rocky right outcrop under the summit tower (avalanches!);
• on the right side of the outcrop (“live” stones! pitons!) 10–15 m up. From the top of the outcrop:
• 300–400-meter traverse left-up along the ice-snow slope under the rocks of the summit tower (piton!);
• along the ice slope-couloir ascent to the saddle of the Eastern ridge of the Ulluuuz summit.

PASSPORT

1. Region, gorge, section number according to KMGV-2001:

2.4. From Chipperazau pass to Gumači peak (Baksan gorge).

2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route:

Azau-Bashi, 3695 m, via the Eastern ridge. 3. Proposed category 2A, first ascent. 4. Character of the route — combined. 5. Height difference of the route — 500 m; length of the route — 1075 m; there are no sections of V and VI category; average steepness: main part of the route — 55°;

Report on the Ascent of Maly Donguz-Orun Peak via the Eastern Ridge, Category 2A, by the MAC "Freeline" Climbing Team from 01.07.2018 to 01.07.2018

I. Ascent Passport

65. Traverse of the Donguzorun massif from east to west (route by V. Kabanov, category IIIA difficulty). The path from the "Baksan" alpine camp (group of 4-12 people) to the Eastern peak of the Donguzorun massif is described in routes 61 and 63. From the Eastern peak, ascent to the Main peak of the massif follows a broad rocky-snow ridge, with occasional steep sections, overcoming small gendarmes directly. Descent from the Main peak follows a snowy ridge with small connecting sections, as well as small gendarmes that can be passed directly, leading to the Western peak. Descent along the southwestern slopes with an overnight stay on a platform under the southwestern ridge of Nakra peak is described in route 56. Duration of the route is 3 days. Special equipment for 4 people: main rope - 2×30 m, auxiliary cordelette - 2 m, rock pitons - 3-4, ice screws - 4-5, rock hammers - 2, carabiners - 8, crampons - 4 pairs, tent - 1. Possible bivouac sites are practically available on all sections of the main massif's ridge. ("Baksan valley", A.F. Naumov)

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Uzunkol tourist center, Western Caucasus
3. Ascent route — Gvandra East peak 3900 m via the eastern ridge
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3A category of difficulty
5. Route characteristics — height difference 700 m, average slope 45°
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying: — rock: II — ice: 2

Fig. 52

3. Ascent to Maly Dombai-Ulgen peak via the northern ridge — category 4A (Fig. 52)

From Dombai clearing along the trail to the left of Chuchkhur waterfalls to Chuchkhur pass — bivouac. From Dombai clearing — 4–5 hours. From the pass along несложным разрушенным скалам (protection!) to the red rocks. First along the northern ridge, then exit to the rocks of the northeastern ridge and along narrow ledges on the eastern side of the ridge — exit to a wide crevice with a three-meter plug. Through this crevice via the plug — to the first ascent. Ascent to the first ascent:

Fig. 41

2. Ascent to the summit of Yuzhny Dombay-Ulgen via the southern ridge with crossing Dombay and Ptysh passes — cat. 2B (see Fig. 40–42)

From Ptysh bivouac, up the moraine of Ptysh glacier (15–20 minutes) and left — towards Dombay pass. Ascend via the couloir (or its right side) and reach the eastern edge of Kruzhevoy glacier. Then:

• Ascend the snowy slope
• Ascend the wide couloir
• Traverse on the right side of the rocky ridge
• Reach Dombay pass — bivouac

REPORT

on the ascent of Pik Ine (3409 m), located in the area of the Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from Marukh pass to Nakhara pass, via the northwest ridge, category 4A (approximately).

1. The route was first climbed in 1960 by a group led by Macevitogo Yu.M. July 30 – August 1, 1973, the ascent was made by a group from "Alibek" tourist center, consisting of:

• 1. Kokodiy N.G. — 2nd sports category — leader
• 2. Borodenko Yu.A. — 1st sports category
• 3. Chepeleva I.P. — 2nd sports category
• 4. Kononenko V.I. — 2nd sports category

2. Brief geographical description of the ascent area Pik Ine (3409 m) — a low, beautiful pointed peak, fully justifying its name ("Needle"), is located in a spur branching off to the north from the Dzheguturoluchat horseshoe in the area of its eastern peak. The peak is clearly visible from Dombay поляна.

Ascent to Kap Peak (3207 m) — Category 1B (Fig. 16)

From the "Alibek" hut along the trail to the glacier or from the bivouac near Turye Lake along the gentle part of the Alibek Glacier — approach to the far right couloir of the Kap Peak slopes. Up the couloir (rockfall hazard!) to the cirque step. There are three ascent options: 1st option:

• To the right along the snowfield into the couloir and along the slabs (belay!) left-up to the ridge.
• Then along the ridge (belay through outcrops!).
• The upper part of the ridge is scree.
• The red rocks of the forepeak are bypassed on the right, then again exit to the ridge and along it to the summit.
• The summit dome is snow-covered.
• The journey from the bivouac to the summit takes 5–6 hours.
• Descent via the ascent route — 3–4 hours.