23 Ulluuuz via the E slope of the W ridge — 5A cat. diff. (V. Samokhvalov, A. Ryabukhin, Yu. Slezin and O. Trubnikov — August 7, 1964).

The path from the "Bezengi" alp camp to the Severny Ulluuuz glacier see in description 12. On the moraine of the glacier under the slopes of the Archimedes peak — a bivouac.

From the bivouac (in teams and with crampons!) across the glacier and then up, 200–250 m to the right of the lower rocky outcrop. Through the bergschrund, ascent straight up 700–800 m along the ice-snow slope, then — along a not very pronounced couloir, to the right of the second triangle of the rocky outcrop (insurance! avalanches!) — with an exit to the snow plateau of faults above the triangular rocky outcrop.

From the plateau:

• ascent along the snow slope through the bergschrund;
• further along the snow-ice slope 200–250 m up to the lower rocky right outcrop under the summit tower (avalanches!);
• on the right side of the outcrop (“live” stones! pitons!) 10–15 m up.

From the top of the outcrop:

• 300–400-meter traverse left-up along the ice-snow slope under the rocks of the summit tower (piton!);
• along the ice slope-couloir ascent to the saddle of the Eastern ridge of the Ulluuuz summit.

From the saddle:

• up along the ruined rocks of the ridge;
• then along the snow-rock couloir on the right side of the ridge — ascent under the Eastern ascent of the summit tower;
• along simple rocks 8–12 m up the couloir;
• further along the slabs — ascent to an inclined shelf-slab (on the wall many “live” stones!);
• along the shelf under the wall — traverse left, bypassing from below an overhanging stone;
• further along the chimney and simple rocks — ascent to the eastern tower of the summit;
• along the 40-meter sharp, ruined rocky ridge — exit to the Ulluuuz summit.

Under the summit on the scree of the Southeast ridge — a bivouac.

From the initial bivouac — 20–24 hours. Descent see in description 18 or 19.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants — 4 people.
2. Initial bivouac — moraine of the Severny Ulluuuz glacier. 3 am — departure time.
3. Equipment: main rope — 2 × 40 m; repcord — 4 m; rock pitons — 6–8; ice pitons — 7–9; rock hammer — 2; carabiners — 12–14; crampons — 4 pairs; tent — 1.
4. Bivouac locations — on the snow plateau of faults, on the ice slope under the summit tower, on the Eastern ridge, under the summit on the Southeast slope and on the descent routes.
5. Exit to the route not earlier than the second half of summer (avalanche danger!)