Dedicated to the blessed memory of Misha Khergiani and E. Sokolovsky by the team on their ascent

Report

On the ascent to the Eastern peak of Ullu-tau-chana via the rocky islands of the northern wall to the Western ridge, made by the KFK team No. 76 during the CS Fis alpine climbing championship from June 29 to July 1, 1980 (second ascent). Team members:

• Shumikhin G.I. — CMS, team captain
• Dubrovskikh V.V. — 1st sports rank
• Yagupov S.N. — 1st sports rank
• Yakovlev G.S. — MS, coach 1st place CS Fis 1980, group I, rock climbing category

Ascent Details

Ascent Passport

1. Class of ascents — winter
2. Region of ascents — Central Caucasus
3. Peak — Ullu-Tau Eastern 4058 m via the rock islands of the northern wall and the western ridge.
4. Complexity category — 5B
5. Height difference — 689 m Extent of the wall part — 930 m Length of sections of 5–6 complexity category — 840 m
6. Number of driven pitons: | rock | nut | bolt | ice |

REPORT

on the ascent to the peak Vostochnaya Ullu-tau-chana via the northern bastions of the shoulder, category 5B difficulty Moscow 1972

2. History of the Massif Exploration

Exploration of the Ullu-tau-chana massif began in 1933 when A. Japaridze and G. Nigurianti ascended to the Main Peak from the Lekzyr glacier from the Mestia pass via a route of category 3B difficulty, and to the Western Peak from the Garvash pass via a route of category 2B difficulty. Before the war, both complete traverses of the massif of category 4B difficulty were also first accomplished:

• 1937 — L. Nadezhdin and V. Nazarov — from west to east;
• 1938 — A. Zolotarev, F. Kropf, V. Mauer, and V. Nesterov — from east to west; and in 1946 — the first ascent via the "board" to the Western Peak with a subsequent traverse of the massif to the east, category 5A difficulty — D. Gudkov, M. Zvezdkin, M. Chertkov, G. Odnoblyudov. In the 1950s, the assault on the northern walls began:
• 1951 — V. Abalakov, M. Anufrikov, A. Borovikov, N. Gusak, V. Kizel, V. Nagaev, L. Filimonov, V. Cheredova — Main Peak "Central" via the northern wall, category 5B difficulty;

PASSPORT

1. Snow and ice class.
2. Caucasus, Adyrsu gorge.
3. "Ullutau" massif, via the rock islands of the Northern wall and the Western ridge (Maltsev's route), category 5B.
4. Elevation gain: 717 m length: 935 m, length of sections: 500 m, category 5, average steepness of the main part of the route 65°.
5. Pitons driven: rock: 19/0; bolt: 0+1x/0; chocks: 5/0; ice screws: 137/0.
6. Team's travel hours: 13.5 hours.
7. Overnights: 1st on the ridge on a site in a tent, 2nd on the ridge on a site in a tent.

8-2.4.1.1385 Moscow Region Climbing Championship 2008 (Technical Class) REPORT on the ascent of the Ullutau peak by the team from Shchelkovo via the north wall couloir, category 5B (first ascent)

1. Region — Central Caucasus, Adyrsu gorge; KMGV code 2.4.1.
2. Peak Ullutau-chana (Main) — 4207 m via the North Wall couloir
3. Proposed category — 5B; first ascent.
4. Route type — ice and snow climb.
5. Height difference — 910 m.
6. Route length — 1100 m.
7. Length of category 5 section — 210 m; category 6 section — 45 m.
8. Average slope — 55°.

Ascent Passport.

1. Region: Central Caucasus, Adyrsu gorge, Main Caucasus Range, section according to KMGV – 2.4.1
2. Peak Ullutau Glavnaya, 4207 m, via the North face (route by V. Abalakov).
3. Complexity category: 5B.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: (from "Abalakov's" bivouacs at the start of the route to the summit) — 700 m (approx.). Route length – 1000 m. Length of sections with V difficulty category – 180 m, VI difficulty category – 40 m. Average steepness:
   • key sections — 80°;

PASSPORT

I. CLIMB CLASS – winter 2. CLIMBING AREA – Central Caucasus 3. PEAK – ULLU-TAU Main, route via the North face, combined (V. Abalakov) 4. DIFFICULTY CATEGORY – 5B 5. ELEVATION GAIN – 1000 m 6. LENGTH OF 5-6 difficulty sections – 450 m 7. AVERAGE SLOPE OF THE ROUTE – 57° 8. PITS DRIVEN ON ASCENT: rock belay devices pitons ice screws

1991 RSFSR Alpine Championship. Winter Ascension Class 135

Report

Report on the ascent to Ullu-Tau peak (Main) 4207 m via the north wall, category 5B, Abalakov's route '51. 2.4.1.132 KTMGV Team from "Rodina" Sports Club of the Kirov Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports. Team Leader Coach Shabalin P.E. Mashkovtsev V.I. "Rodina" Sports Club: 610006, Kirov, Lepsye St., 4A, ph. 30310, 36592

The summit of Ullu-Tau (4207 m) is located in the Main Caucasian Range and closes the Adyr-Su gorge. The summit is an array located in the East-West direction and has three not clearly defined peaks: Eastern, Main, and Western. The highest point of the massif is the Main peak of Ullu-Tau. To the north, the massif drops off with a steep wall with significant glaciation. The height difference is over 1200 m. All technically complex routes on the massif pass along the northern walls and are combined. Eight routes of category 5B have been laid on the massif (all along the northern walls). For the ascent, the group chose a new route through a steep rocky outcrop located between the rocky bastions of the Eastern and Main peaks. From the "Dzhailyk" alpine camp, past the "Ullu-Tau" alpine camp, up the gorge for 3 hours to the moraine under the northern wall of Ullu-Tau Main ("Central bivouac").

Table of Main Characteristics of the Ascent Route

ASCENT DOCUMENT

of the ascent made at the Central Sports Council of the "Zenit" Sports Society alpine championship in 1984 Ascent category — high-altitude Ascent area — South-West Pamir, Kishy-Jerob gorge Ascent route — Peak Engels (6510 m) via the center of the eastern wall — 6B Characteristics of the ascent:

• height difference (wall) — 1000 m
• average steepness — 74°
• length of complex sections — 875 m (height difference 840 m, steepness 80°) Pitons used: rock — 168, ice — 9, bolt — 9 + 15*, chocks — 19