Map diagram General photo of the summit. Routes from left to right:

• 1 — team's route
• 2 — English route 87 (Saunders, 1987)

Description of the Climbing Area

Spantik or Golden Peak is located in the second-highest mountain system in the world — Karakoram, which directly continues Hindukush, rising between Pamir and Himalayas. In particular, the road that leads to the climbing area passes directly through the junction of the three greatest mountain systems in the world:

• Himalayas
• Karakoram

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF TRIDENT VIA THE WEST RIDGE, CATEGORY 6A, BY KONSTANTIN MARKEVICH'S TEAM, AUGUST 4-5, 2019

I. Ascent Report

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area: Karakoram
2. Ascent class: High-altitude
3. Peak: Hidden Peak (8068 m) via NW wall couloir (Japanese couloir)
4. Route difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • elevation gain from base camp 2918 m
   • length of sections with 5th category difficulty 400 m
   • average steepness (6500 m – summit) 50°
6. Pitons driven

Ascent Log

1. Mountain range: Karakoram Gorge: Nangma. Peak name: Shingu Charpa (This peak is not listed in the 2001 classification table).
2. Route name: "Never More" via the Central Eastern wall
3. Estimated difficulty category: 6B first ascent
4. Route type: combined
5. Route characteristics: Height difference: 1600 m Route length: 2360 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Region: Alps, Chamonix (France)
3. Route: via the left buttress of the North face (Cassin–Walker)
4. Difficulty category: not classified, proposed 6B
5. Height difference: 1708 m, length: 2100 m length of sections with 5th category difficulty – 620 m length of sections with 6th category difficulty – 550 m average steepness of the route: 75°
6. Pitons used:

ASCENT REPORT (6B variation)

1. Region — Alps, 10.3.
2. Peak — Gранд Жораcc (Grand Jorasses), Croz peak, 4110 m via the center of the north face.
3. Proposed route — 6B category of difficulty (ED VI+, 6b, A2), variation of route № Siesta.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1030 m, route length — 1200 m, sections of 6th category — 650 m, 5th category — 300 m, average steepness of the wall section — 72°.

Passport

1. Winter category.
2. France, Alps, Mont Blanc massif.
3. Grand Capucin peak, 3838 m, via the East face. Route "Russkaya zima" (Russian Winter).
4. Proposed category — 6A, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 508 m, length — 570 m, including wall section 413 and 420 m, respectively. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 30 m, 6th category difficulty — 390 m. Average steepness of the wall section 82°, from bergschrund to summit 71°.
6. Pitons driven: rock bolts, pitons, ice screws | 42 | 230 | 0 | 0 | | :-: | :-: | :-: | :-: |

Report

On the ascent of the KAiS MEI team to the summit of Gran Paradiso (4061 m) from the Piccolo Paradiso pass and the Northeast Ridge, 3A category of complexity, Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region, Gran Paradiso National Park Leader: Toporkov A.V. Senior coach: Korochkov A.S.

Climbing Passport

1. Italy. Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region, Gran Paradiso National Park. Section 10.3 of the route classifier for mountain peaks.
2. Summit Gran Paradiso (4061 m) from the Piccolo Paradiso pass and the Northeast ridge.
3. First ascent: F.T. Wettered with mountain guides Laurent Proment and Eliseo Jeantet, July 20, 1876.
4. Category: 3A, route type — combined.
5. Height difference: 400 m.

Report

On the ascent of the peak

"Gran Fourche" via the "Western ridge from the north" route, category 3A, by the team "Bodrye rebyata" for the period from 6:00 August 6, 2018 to 18:00 August 6, 2018 (France. "Haute-Savoie" area, "du Tour" Glacier) (3619 m) Team leader: Olennikov S.A. Coach: Olennikov S.A.

Table of Contents

I. Ascent Passport — 3 II. Description of the Ascent — 5

1. Characteristics of the Climbing Object — 5

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, 7.10.
2. Jigit peak, 5170 m, via the center of NW wall.
3. Proposed 6A category of complexity, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 1016 m. Route length: 1165 m. Section lengths:
   • V category of complexity — 205 m
   • VI category of complexity — 200 m