Report
On the ascent of the KAiS MEI team to the summit of Gran Paradiso (4061 m) from the Piccolo Paradiso pass and the Northeast Ridge, 3A category of complexity, Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region, Gran Paradiso National Park
Leader: Toporkov A.V.
Senior coach: Korochkov A.S.
Climbing Passport
- Italy. Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region, Gran Paradiso National Park. Section 10.3 of the route classifier for mountain peaks.
- Summit Gran Paradiso (4061 m) from the Piccolo Paradiso pass and the Northeast ridge.
- First ascent: F.T. Wettered with mountain guides Laurent Proment and Eliseo Jeantet, July 20, 1876.
- Category: 3A, route type — combined.
- Height difference: 400 m. Route length: 870 m. Section length: V category — m, VI category — m. Average slope: main part of the route (up to Piccolo Paradiso pass) — 30°; entire route — 20°. GPS track of ascent and descent: https://www.strava.com/activities/1733564054↗.
- Number of pitons used on the route: 19.
- Team's climbing time: 7 hours 30 minutes, not including descent.
- Leader: Toporkov Alexander (Candidate for Master of Sports, 3rd category instructor). Participants: Antipina Natalia (3rd sports category), Tretyakova Vera (3rd sports category), Fedorov Vladislav (3rd sports category), Ovcharenko Irina (3rd sports category), Afanasyeva Lena (3rd sports category). Coach: Korochkov Alexey Semyonovich.
- Departure from Chabod hut: July 28, 2018, 4:00 AM. Arrival at the glacier: 5:30 AM. Start of ascent to Piccolo Paradiso pass: 7:30 AM. Arrival at Piccolo Paradiso pass: 8:30 AM. Summit arrival: 11:30 AM. Descent from the summit: via 1B category route to Chabod hut.
- Alpine event: Training and category climb "Alps 2018" by KAiS MEI.
- Responsible for the report: Toporkov A.V., email: toporchillo@gmail.com.
General Summit Photo
- Gran Paradiso via Piccolo Paradiso pass and NE ridge (team's route).
- Gran Paradiso via N wall, 4B (C. Bertolone, F. Cappa, G. Giorda, 1958).
- Gran Paradiso via N face and NW ridge.
- Gran Paradiso via N face and NW ridge (F. Locatelli+6, 1974).
- Gran Paradiso via NW ridge, 3B.
- Gran Paradiso via NW ridge.
The photograph was taken from Chabod hut.
Technical Photograph of the Route
The photograph was taken from Chabod hut. The summit itself is not visible. The northern ridge runs between the visible highest point and the summit.
| Section | Length | Slope | Terrain | Category | Number of anchors |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| R0–R1 | 250 m | 30° | snow and ice | 3 | 9 ice screws |
| R1–R2 | 150 m | 25° | snow | 2 | 2 ice screws |
| R2–R3 | 100 m | 25° | snow ridge | 1 | - |
| R3–R4 | 50 m | 30° | rocks and snow | 2 | 1 nut |
| R4–R5 | 5 m | 90° | rocks | 4 | 3 nuts |
| R5–R6 | 15 m | 45° | rocks | 3 | 3 pitons |
| R6–R7 | 100 m | 10° | rock ledges | 1 | - |
| R7–R8 | 100 m | 25° | snow ridge | 1 | - |
| R8–R9 | 100 m | 30° | rock ridge | 1-3 | 2 bolts |
Route Profile Photo
Brief Description of the Route by Sections
Approach: from Chabod hut, follow the trail upwards for 100 m, then traverse a steep slope, reach a stream, cross the stream via a bridge, and continue along the trail to a moraine ridge. Ascend the moraine ridge to the glacier (1.5 hours). On the glacier, move in teams towards the left part of Gran Paradiso's wall, in the direction of the snow and ice slope between the ice serac and the rock island. The glacier is closed, with crevasses. Do not go too far left — possible rockfall from the ice serac and the "ram's foreheads" below. Approach the rock island (2 hours).
R0–R1: Ice slope between the serac on the left and the rock island on the right. Move towards the rocky ridge on the left part of the wall: 250 meters, 30° slope, 9 ice screws used.
R1–R2: Traverse the snow slope along the rocks to bypass the bergschrund on the right, then move upwards to the left to reach Piccolo Paradiso pass (the more to the left, the gentler the slope): 150 m, 25°, 2 ice screws (photo 1).
R2–R3: Ascend the Northeast snow ridge with cornices to a rock step: 100 m (photo 2). R0–R3: 1.5 hours.
R3–R4: Traverse simple rocks, iced up, to approach a gendarme. Move along a ledge to the left for 50 m: 50 m.
R4–R5: Ascend steep rocks (IV category) to the gendarme: 5 m, 3 protection points.
R5–R6: Descend from the gendarme to a gentle ridge: 15 m, 3 protection points (photo 3).
R6–R7: Move along a gentle ridge, following the snow along a rock ledge: 100 m.
R7–R8: Snow ridge: 100 m.
R8–R9: Rock ridge with a summit gendarme. To ascend the summit gendarme, climb the ledges from the South — it's gentler there, with stationary protection points. The summit features a statue of the Madonna (photo 4).
From Piccolo Paradizo pass to the summit (R2–R9): 3 hours.
Descent from the summit via 1B category route to Chabod hut — 3.5 hours.
On the day of our ascent, the route was in near ideal condition: the lower part was an icy slope covered with a thin layer of snow. This allowed for easy movement on snow and reliable protection on the ice beneath. The rocks were dry, with no ice formations. The snow on the ridges was firm but not hard névé, making it safe to ascend the snow steps.
In terms of technical difficulty, the route is comparable to routes like Sella Peak via N wall, 3 peaks, 3A; Teketor from the North, 3A.
Photo Illustrations
Photo 1: Snow slope before reaching Piccolo Paradiso pass.
Photo 2: Snow ridge R2–R3, gendarme visible.
Photo 3: Gendarme on the NE ridge.
Photo 4: Summit.
