Passport

of the ascent made in the championship of the Caucasian Territorial Administration of alp camps. I. Class of ascent: technical. 2. Area of ascent: Central Caucasus, Bezengi. 4. Expected category of difficulty: 5A 5. Characteristics of the route: total height difference of the route — 1850 m, route length — 2750 m. length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 1440 m, average steepness of the wall section — 50°. 6. Number of pitons driven:

Central Federal District Climbing Championship

Ascent Report

TO THE SUMMIT of Dykhtau, Main peak via left South buttress (Alexashin's Route) 5A cat. diff. Voronezh 2023

I. Ascent Passport

ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. Climbing category: ice and snow 2. Caucasus, Bezengi valley 3. Summit Dykh-Tau via NE wall 4. Difficulty category: 5B 5. Elevation gain: 2154 m. route length 3460 m. length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 1460 m. average steepness of main sections

REPORT

on the Dykhtau – Koshtan traverse of 6A category of complexity by the team from St. Petersburg from 30.08.2020 to 5.09.2020 2020

I. Climbing Report

Report

on the first ascent of the route to the summit of Itkaya­bashi 3197 m. via the left part of the center of the Western wall (proposed 6A category) by the team of Sumy region FAS from August 3 to 5, 2013. Team captain: Roshko V. I. Team coach: Mityukhin F. P.

Sumy — 2013

Addresses:

Coach Mityukhin Fyodor Petrovich, 40004, Sumy, Metallurgov str., 14/67; home phone: +38 (050) 634-34-34; work phone: 8 (0542) 61-99-64 Leader Roshko Vladimir Ivanovich

Description of the ascent route to peak Kankosheva 3920 m via the Eastern edge (from KOSHTAN pass) – 3A category of difficulty.

From the overnight stay behind the moraine - into the moraine gap, exit to the Ullu-Auz glacier. Cross the glacier in the direction of the KOSHTAN pass. From the glacier - along the talus and snowfields, exit to the plateau below the KOSHTAN pass. From the plateau - along the snowy slope, passing the bergschrund on the right. Reach the KOSHTAN pass (replace the note in the cairn on the pass). From the pass - right and up along the wide snowy ridge. The first gendarme is bypassed on the left along the snow. The second - first a 10-15-meter traverse to the right, then 10 m straight up the plate and 30 m along the rocks of medium difficulty - exit to the gendarme's saddle. From the saddle - a 40-meter traverse along the ledges on the left side of the gendarme with an exit to the shoulder of the South counterfort. Along the steep rocks of medium difficulty 30 m up to the gendarme. Further - 50-70 m along the sharp snowy ridge - exit below the walls of the third gendarme. First, bypass it on the right along the boundary of ice and rocks to a 12-15-meter ledge. From the ledge - 50 m up the plate, then a traverse into a 70-80-meter couloir, which leads to the saddle. From the saddle - up a 15-meter cleft to the gendarme. From it - down to the ridge after 20–25 m. Further - up along the simple rocks of the ridge. The fourth gendarme is ascended straight up (40 m), then - bypassed by a 60-70-meter traverse on the left along the ledges and rocks of medium difficulty through the South counterfort with an exit beyond the gendarme to the saddle below the rocky ascent of peak Kankosheva. From the saddle - straight up 15 m along the difficult rocks of the counterfort. Further - 40 m along a 4-meter cleft - ascent to the Eastern peak of Kankosheva.

103. Traverse of the Koshtan-Krest ridge from the peak of Kankashev to Gerty-Bashi with ascent to the peak Kankashev via the Eastern ridge — 5A cat. diff. (A. Naumov, E. Varfolomeev, I. Kudinov, E. Sokolovsky, V. Shutin, V. Shutov — July 16–21, 1961; fig. 34, 35). The path from the alp camp "Bezengi" to the Eastern summit of peak Kankashev see in description 102. From the Eastern summit:

• descend 60 m down simple monolithic rocks to the snowy ridge in the failure. From the failure:
• ascend simple destroyed rocks of the ridge to the Western summit of peak Kankashev. From the Western summit:
• descend to the west first over simple rocks,
• then by sports descents over slabs and steep rocks of medium difficulty to a simple snowy ridge. Further:

Alpinism and Rock Climbing Federation of Kharkiv Region

Report

On the ascent of the Kharkiv region team to the summit of Kara-Kaya Western.

Via the Central buttress of the Southwest wall. Presumably 5B category of difficulty. First ascent. Zakalodnii A. V. — team leader Poltavets E. I. Kotlyar R. S. Eremeev A. A. Timko E. N.

St. Petersburg Climbing Championship

2014 Description of the ascent to the summit of Kara-Kaya (3646 m) via the central buttress of the southwest wall, 6A category of difficulty (E. Poltavets, 2010) ROUTE COMPLETED BY TEAM FASIL Team captain - Nikitin Andrey Borisovich

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge, section No. 2.5 of the route classifier for mountain peaks, point 2.5.226
2. Name of the summit: Kara-Kaya (3646 m), route name: via the central buttress of the southwest wall (E. Poltavets, 2010)
3. Category of difficulty: 6A
4. Route type: rock climbing

The summit of Dzhailyk has a 4B category of difficulty, the nature of the route is combined. The summit of Dzhailyk is located on the sixth north-western Adyr spur. To the east of Dzhailyk (in the eastern branch) lies the summit of Cheget-bashi, to the south lies the summit of Kichkidar, and to the west lies the summit of Tyu. The summit of Dzhailyk is surrounded by glaciers: the eastern and western ones, as well as the northern Pnom-Su. Three ridges branch out from the summit of Dzhailyk:

• to the Donkina pass,
• the eastern one - towards the glacier of the summit Dzhailyk Kinchat,
• the western one - turning into a long rocky fence, separating the glaciers of the western Dzhailyk and the northern Pnom-Su. To the north-east, Dzhailyk drops with sheer walls and steep slopes, falling into the ridge between the massifs of Dzhailyk and Tyu-Tyu-S. The route begins with an overnight stay on the Black Rocks in their branch from the western ridge to Dzhailyk, in the form of a short, barely noticeable rocky ridge. From the overnight site, it goes towards the main western ridge. At the beginning, the path goes along broken rocks to the first "gendarmes", which is bypassed on the left along a steep snow-ice slope. Above the "gendarmes" there is a snow shelf, then a simple rocky ridge of broken rocks begins. The length of this section of the ridge is 35-40 m. Having passed this ridge, they reach the second "gendarmes" with sheer walls to the north-west and east. This "gendarmes" is bypassed on the left along a snow-ice couloir. Having passed 35-40 m along the couloir, one should climb up a 5-meter sloping shelf, leading to a gentle slab. From the slab: