Brief Geographical Overview of the SOAN Peak Area

The SOAN peak (Siberian Branch of the Academy of Sciences) is located in the eastern part of the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains. The ridge is clearly stretched from west to east for 150 km and approaches the southwestern tip of Lake Baikal. Streams and rivers flowing from the ridge flow into:

• to the south (in the Tunka valley) — into the Irkut River,
• to the north (in the Kitoi valley) — into the Kitoi River. Kitoi and Irkut are left tributaries of the Angara River. The Tunka valley has many mineral springs, one of which is Arshan, which has gained all-Union fame. The wildlife in the area is rich and diverse. The Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge is located on the territory of the Buryat ASSR. The SOAN peak is located in the upper reaches of the Zun-Khandagai River gorge.

Climatological Information

Traverse of South Tower v. Trekhlavaya via 1B category difficulty route, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge in Eastern Sayan

1. Geographical information

The v. Trekhlavaya massif is located in the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge in Eastern Sayan, in a long lateral spur serving as a watershed for the Bugotoy and Kyngarga rivers. Tunkinskie Goltsy is the highest ridge in Eastern Sayan, stretching in a latitudinal direction. The highest point is 3266 m, located in the upper reaches of the Gang-Kharym river gorge. The ridge has sharp alpine forms. Within 100 km from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west, there are many peaks of great interest to mountaineers. The gorges are deep, covered with dense taiga. The forest boundary on the southern slopes is at 1880 m, on the northern slopes at 1600–1700 m. The snow cover almost completely melts by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The v. Trekhlavaya massif consists of three towers — South, Central, and North. The highest is Central, with an elevation of 2511 m above sea level. The height of the South Tower is 2486 m above sea level. The nearest settlement is the Arshan resort, 225 km from Irkutsk. From the resort to the base camp at the confluence of the Right and Left Kyngarga rivers, it takes 4 hours to ascend the gorge.

2. Route description

Traversing the North and Central Towers

Trekhglavaya Peak with ascent via the NE ridge of the North Tower via route category 2B

1. Geographic information

The Trekhglavaya massif is located in the Tunka Goltsy range of the Eastern Sayan Mountains, in a long lateral spur that serves as the watershed between the Bugotoy and Kyngarga rivers. The Tunka Goltsy range is the highest in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, stretching latitudinally for hundreds of kilometers. Its highest point, 3266 meters above sea level, is located in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Kharym river. The range has sharp alpine forms overall. Within 100 km from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west, there are many peaks of great interest to mountaineers. The gorges are deep, covered with dense taiga. The tree line on southern slopes is at 1880 m, and on northern slopes at 1600–1700 m. Snow cover largely melts by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The Trekhglavaya massif consists of three towers: the South, Central, and North Towers. The highest is the Central Tower, at 2511 meters above sea level. The nearest settlement is the Arshan resort, 225 km from Irkutsk. It takes 4 hours to reach the Base Camp at the confluence of the Right and Left Kyngarga rivers from the resort (upstream along the gorge).

2. Route description

Irkutsk Regional Alpine Federation

Description

Ascent to v. "Flibustier" via the 3rd ridge (Tunkin Goltsy) Eastern Sayan. 2860 m. Irkutsk, 1971.

Geographical Information, Sports Characteristics, and History of the Exploration of the Moygato Valley

The Moygato valley is located in the middle part of the Tunkin Goltsy ridge in the Eastern Sayan. Tunkin Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan. The highest point is 3266 m in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Kharym valley. The ridge has alpine forms of relief. There are many peaks of interest to climbers. The valleys are deep, covered with impenetrable taiga. The forest boundary lies at an altitude of 1700 m. The snow cover almost completely disappears by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The peak "Flibustier" is located in a lateral spur. The height of the peak is 2860 m.

Passing the section R4–R5 Passing the crux R5–R6. The "fly swatter" on the crux. The summit, station behind a boulder

Approaches.

From the hut on the lake, we ascend to the moraine cushion, leaving the peaks Neftehimik, Monah, and Ch. Zori to the left. Further along the moraine ridge, we bypass the lower lake and gain altitude, heading to the right towards the peaks Baruun and Uzlovaya. The entire

Report

On the first ascent to the peak Obmanchivaya via the route Left Buttress of the Eastern wall 4B cat. by the team of the club "Gory Baikala" for the period from October 15, 2018 to October 15, 2018.

I. Climbing Report

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the team leader	Tkachenko Pavel Valentinovich 1st sports rank
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Repina Ekaterina Viktorovna 1st sports rank, Oleneva Nadezhda Alexandrovna CMS
1.3	Full name of the coach	Glazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich (MS)
1.4	Organization	Irkutsk regional public organization "Club of active recreation and mountaineering "Gory Baikala"
	2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object

ALPINISM FEDERATION OF THE REPUBLIC OF BURYATIA

Report on the First Ascent

Peak Domashnyaya (2350 m). Via the South-Eastern Ridge. Route 1B cat. diff. (proposed). Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy, Zun-Khandagai valley 6.1.2. 2023

Climbing Passport

1. General Information

Climb leader and author of the description — Zaretsky Ivan Approach: Both routes start from Molodyozhny pass. You can ascend to the pass from the side of Mramorny lake. From the lake, a trail goes towards the pass, which leads to a scree slope. You will have to ascend via a talus field, bypassing the "sheep's foreheads". This path to the pass is:

• the shortest,
• not the easiest to ascend,
• not the safest to descend. From Mramorny lake, you can also reach Molodyozhny pass via Kursanov pass. From the lake, a trail leads to Kursanov East pass. Then, from the pass, the trail goes along the ridge towards Molodyozhny peak. From Kursanov West pass, the trail, going along the slope, leads to Molodyozhny pass. This path is longer, but it mostly follows an obvious trail.

1B to Uchiteley peak:

The route starts from Molodyozhny pass. From the pass, the route follows a trail that, bypassing the summit on the right, leads to the ridge. The highest point of the ridge is the summit. Descent is done via the same route.

1B to Molodyozhny peak

Ascent to the summit "Karaganda"

The geodetic height is 4014 m. The summit is located in the Dzungarian Alatau, in its Main Northern ridge. It is situated in the main ridge near the Demekpe pass. A glacier descends from the summit to the north. Its upper part is gentle, but the steepness increases significantly towards the bottom. The north-eastern side is a continuous glacier, which is part of an ice cirque. To the south lies a rocky scree. From the west, there are scree slopes and rocks of moderate difficulty before the summit. Departure at 8:30. At the Demekpe pass by 11:00. From here, the path to the summit begins - eastward along the scree. We reach the ridge. A glacier descends from it to the north, and a snowy-ice cornice to the south. We pass the cornice on the left along the glacier, roped and in crampons. We reach rocks of moderate difficulty. The rocks are covered with snow and ice. Movement with alternating belay. The rock section is about 100 m high, with a steepness of 50–70°. At the summit by 13:00. Descent to the north along easy slopes for 100 m. We cross the glacier to the west and join the ascent route. Further descent follows the ascent path. Base camp by 17:30. The weather during the ascent was very poor. Visibility sometimes disappeared completely. Strong cold wind. Fog. The ascent was made on September 16, 1963. The group consisted of:

KONDRATYEV	— leader — Category "P"
GATSUTS	— 3rd category

GVANDRA PEAK – 3993 m

1. Ascent to Gvandara East Peak from Ak-Tyube Pass – Cat. 1B
2. Ascent to Gvandara East Peak via the northern edge from Ak-Tyube Glacier – Cat. 2B (Description of the route as you move towards the peak) Difficulties
3. Ascent to Gvandara East Peak – Cat. 1B The path to the bivouac is described in the description of the Kara-Baschi peak. From the bivouac:

• straight across the moraine to the Morde Glacier;