GVANDRA PEAK – 3993 m
- Ascent to Gvandara East Peak from Ak-Tyube Pass – Cat. 1B
- Ascent to Gvandara East Peak via the northern edge from Ak-Tyube Glacier – Cat. 2B (Description of the route as you move towards the peak)
Difficulties
- Ascent to Gvandara East Peak – Cat. 1B
The path to the bivouac is described in the description of the Kara-Baschi peak.
From the bivouac:
- straight across the moraine to the Morde Glacier;
- across the glacier in its middle part and then to the right — to the snowy slopes of Ak-Tyube Pass;
- up the slope to the right of the rocky ascent to the pass. From the pass (in rope teams) along the snowy (partially rocky) ridge to the pre-summit rise;
- up the destroyed rocks of the rise (belay!) — exit to a narrow snowy ridge (cornices to the right!!!);
- along the left side of the ridge to the main ridge of the massif and along it for 130 m — exit to the peak.
From the bivouac – 5–6 hours. Descent along the ascent route to the bivouac takes 3–4 hours. When descending, pay attention to crossing the snowy ridge with cornices! Belay!
Recommendations for Climbers
- Number of participants in the group — training detachment
- Initial bivouac — “Morde overnight stay”
- Departure time from the bivouac — no later than 5:00 am
- Special equipment for a group of 4 people:
a) rope — 2 × 30 m
- Ascent to Gvandara East Peak via the northern edge – Cat. 2B The path to Ak-Tyube Pass is described in the description of the route to Gvandara East Peak Cat. 1B.
From the pass, descend down — onto the Ak-Tyube Glacier and across it to the left to the lower part of the northern edge of the peak. From the foot of the edge (in rope teams!) straight up the slope to the passage between the rocks and the ice fall. Straight up the passage for 90–100 m to a rocky outcrop (belay!), from which along a steep snowy slope at 45° (60–70 m) — exit to the ridge of the northern edge (in August–September, belay using ice screws on this section). Then to the left along the rocky ridge – 250 m (belay!) to the first snowy patch. Up the steep 45° slope of the snowy patch (belay!) — exit to its upper part. And from there along the next steep snowy slope – 300 m straight up to the eastern ridge and along it to the main ridge of the massif. Along the main ridge for 130 m (cornices to the right!! belay!) — exit to Gvandara East Peak. From the bivouac to the peak — 6–7 hours. Descent from the peak along the Cat. 1B route.
Recommendations for Climbers
- Number of participants — 2–3 squads
- Initial bivouac — “Morde overnight stay”
- Departure time from the bivouac — no later than 4:00–5:00 am
- Special equipment for a group of 4 people:
a) ropes — 2 × 30 m;
b) expendable rope — 2 m;
c) rock pitons — 3–4 pcs;
d) rock hammers — 2 pcs;
e) ice screws — 4 pcs;
f) crampons — 4 pairs;
g) carabiners — 6–8 pcs
