The route starts from the bergschrund. In winter, the crevices are usually filled with snow and crossing the bergschrund is not particularly difficult. In summer, however, there may be a difference in the walls of the crevice of up to 3–5 m of sheer ice or very difficult firn that is challenging to belay. Section R0–R4:

• Ice slab with a slope of up to 50°.
• Alternating movement.
• Belay using ice screws. Section R3–R3:
• Rock islands covered with ice.
• In summer, due to the thin ice, the rocks may be exposed, so belaying is expected to be done using both ice screws and rock protection (pitons and nuts).
• Due to the specifics of the rock relief, thin rock pitons and small-sized nuts (preferably stoppers) are preferable. Section R4–R5:

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Baychechekay via the Center of the Northern Glacial Slope

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ala-Archa gorge Peak Baychechekay, 4515 m, via the center of the northern glacial slope (from the couloir) Proposed category: 4A, first ascent. Route type: ice-snow. Height difference: 450 m. Route length: 650 m
2. Section lengths: II category — 150 m, III — 350 m, IV — 150 m
3. Average slope: main part of the route — 45° Total route — 40°
4. Number of "cruxes" left on the route: total — 0

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category: technical. 2. Ascent region: Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ak-Sai gorge. 3. V. Baichechekei, 4515 m, via the icy chute of the Western wall, ice route, winter ascent. 4. Estimated category of difficulty — approximately 5A. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — wall section — 320 m, total — 600 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 225 m, average steepness of the wall section — 65° 6. Number of pitons driven: ice screws — 48, fixed elements — 5

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class: Technical. 2. Ascent Region: Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ak-Sai gorge. 3. V. Baychechekei, 4515 m, via the ice gully of the Western wall, ice route, winter ascent. 4. Presumed difficulty category — originally 5A. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — wall section — 320 m, total — 600 m, length of 5th category difficulty sections — 225 m, average steepness of the wall section — 65° 6. Pitons hammered: ice screws — 48, artificial elements — 5

Description of the First Ascent to the summit of Beliy Pik from the Southeast (approx. Category III difficulty) (Alaarchinsky spur of Kyrgyz Ala-Too)

The first ascent was made on July 21, 1968, by two groups of Leningrad climbers from the base camp at the confluence of the Alamedin and Jyndy-su rivers. Group Composition: Kheysin D.E. (leader), MS Koltsov A.I. (leader), Naryshkin B. 1st sports category, Mikheev L.N. 1st sports category, Fedorenko Yu. 1st sports category, Yakovlev Yu.G. 1st sports category, Yakovlev Yu.V. 1st sports category.

Brief Geographical Description and General Route Characteristics

The summit of Beliy Pik is located east of Lermontov Peak on the same spur, which bounds the Dzhindy-su valley to the south. The ridges extending from the summit to the east and southeast descend towards the Alamedin valley and bound the Kок-zoo valley and glacier (name taken from Marechek's map). The route is snow and ice with short rock sections. The height of Beliy Pik is 4650 m.

Route Description

From the base camp, follow the right (here and further along the route) bank of the Alamedin River (trail) up to the first lateral valley on the right (hanging valley) (40 min). Turn right and ascend steeply up the scree, and after the inflection, continue up the moraines to the gentle tongue of the Kok-zoo glacier, where the river is hidden by moraines. Cross the center of the open glacier to a narrow, steep icefall between rocky spurs (4 hours); overnight stay on the right moraine.

Route 5A cat. sl., description compiled by Aksenov V.A.

General Information about the Climbing Area

Peak "XXII Congress of the CPSU" is located in the Kyrgyz Range, part of the Western Tian Shan system, and belongs to the Alamedin River basin. The northeastern and northern slopes of the summit descend to the glacier of the Salyk River basin, which flows into the Alamedin River. The northwestern slopes of the summit, covered with ice, abruptly break off to the Peremin Glacier, located between the slopes of this summit and the northern peak of the Alamedin Wall. The southern slopes descend to the Ozorovsky Glacier in the Alamedin River basin. To the east and west of Peak "XXII Congress of the CPSU" are peaks that are of significant interest to climbers. The height of the summit above sea level is 4650 m, with a relative height of about 1200 m. In terms of sports, Peak "XXII Congress" is of significant interest. To the west, a ridge extends with an unnamed peak. The ascent along the northwestern counterfort, followed by a traverse of both peaks, is a route of the highest category of difficulty.

1. Ascent category — snow and ice
2. Kyrgyz Ala-Too
3. Peak Izyskatel (4400 m) via the center of the northwest face
4. Proposed category difficulty — 3B
5. Height difference — 300 m Route length — 400 m. Average steepness — 50°
6. Pitons driven — 31/0 (ice screws)
7. Climbing hours — 4.5
8. Base camp — hut near Koronsky glacier
9. Rodikov A.P. — Candidate Master of Sports

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge. 3. Peak Korona (1st), 4810 m, via ice wall, 3rd cat. diff., ice-snow route. 4. Assumed category — (winter), first ascent. 5. Height difference: 1360 m. Wall section height difference — 600 m. Total length — 1995 m. Wall length — 770 m. Length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 610 m. Avg. slope — 53° (3450–4050 m). 6. Pitons hammered in: rock 9 placements ·18

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Range. 3. Peak Korona (1st), 4810 m, via the ice wall 3 cat. complexity, ice and snow route. 4. Estimated cat. complexity — LA 5– (winter), first ascent. 5. Height difference: 1360 m. Wall section height difference — 600 m. Total length — 1995 m. Wall length — 770 m. Length of sections with 5 cat. complexity — 610 m. Average steepness — 53° (3450–4050 m). 6. Pitons driven: rock 9, chocks 18, ice screws 110 7. Climbing hours: 14.5 hours; days — 2 8. Overnights: 1st in a hut on Uchitel glacier (processing).

Ascent Log

1. Climbing grade — technically challenging.
2. Ascent area — Main Caucasian Ridge and its spurs from Chipperaza Pass to Ortokara peak.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Latsga (3999 m) eastern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 620 m average steepness — 52° length of sections — 5th cat. diff. — 197 m
6. Pitons hammered: for belay and for creating R.P.E. rock pitons 56