From the base camp at the foot of v. Aosol, ascend along the trail along the stream in the direction of the Western Tsiruk, then - overcoming moraine ridges - exit to the glacier. On the glacier, head towards v. Sadko, bypassing the moraines on the left, but not approaching the slopes of v.v. Aelita and Berendey - rockfalls are possible from there. Approach the base of the ice-rock couloir leading to the saddle to the left of v. Sadko (2 hours 30 minutes). From here, it is visible that the wall of v. Sadko is intersected in its lower part by two new couloirs, going from the main ice-rock couloir from left to right upwards. The couloirs are bounded by rocky, destroyed large ridges, leading to the main ridge of v. Sadko to the right of the summit. 0–I. Ascend up the main couloir (dirty ice with a high content of rubble, in the lower part of the couloir - 5–10 m of thawed, mobile layer of dirty rubble). Rockfalls! Ascent up the couloir under the cover of the 1st ridge, bypass it on the left, ascend to the ridge. Here you should look around. I–2. Along the rocky, destroyed ridge to the main ridge (movement is mostly simultaneous, in some places - alternating with belay through ledges). 2–3. Along the main ridge to the summit of Sadko (total from the foot - 2 hours). Route length - 25 km. Options:

• Ascent via the 2nd ridge - apparently equivalent.

PASSPORT

1. Altitude-technical class
2. Tian-Shan
3. Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m), via the South face
4. Proposed - 5B category of complexity, first ascent
5. Height difference – 2700 m, length – 4750 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity – 2680 m. Average steepness of the most difficult sections is 50° (4700 m–6700 m).
6. Pitons hammered: ice – 138, rock – 57, bolted – 2.
7. Team's travel time: 88 hours and days – 10

Ascent Log.

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Terskey-Alatoo ridge, Tashtambektor gorge.
3. Panoramnaya peak, 3600 m, via the North-Eastern ridge.
4. Assumed category complexity 1B, first ascent.
5. Characteristics: height difference — ~600 m, average steepness — 30°.
6. Pitons driven for belay — none.
7. Departure and return date — July 26, 1977.
8. Total climbing hours — 3.5 hours.

Sayramsky District of the Ugam Range. Ascent to the "Kergely" peak, dedicated to the XIV Congress of the Komsomol. Category 1B. Height 3787.3 m.

You need to leave the bivouac located near the lake as early as possible, because the peak is quite far away (departure at 6:00 am at the latest). Moving along the right side of the ancient moraine, we reach the depression left by the ancient glacier. The approach to the depression takes 1.5–2 hours. From the depression, we ascend directly "head-on" up the steep snowfield, keeping to the left side, to reach easy rock terrain, and, continuing along the rocks or snow (if it's not loose), we reach the first ascent to the pass. The path from the depression to the end of the first ascent takes 40–60 minutes. Then begins the second ascent along a snowfield with a steepness of 45–50°. The path from the first ascent to the second takes 30 minutes. After that, we move to the third ascent and reach the pass. As we ascend to the third rise, we need to gradually move to the right towards three rocks protruding with sharp peaks. The entire path from the depression to the end of the third ascent is along the snow and takes one and a half to two hours. By-passing the three isolated rocks from the south, we reach the south-eastern ridge. The further path goes along the south-eastern ridge. The ridge consists of severely degraded rocks with small, loose scree. At first, the belay is organized alternately, and then, as we move forward, we can move simultaneously with running belay. Severely degraded rocks are circumvented from the south, slightly below, along the loose scree. Having reached the first depression, we descend into it and emerge onto the southern snowy slope. The slope has a steepness of 40–45°.

Description of the ascent to the summit "Sypuchaya" (4000 m above sea level) in the Ugam Range

The summit "Sypuchaya" is located in a lateral ridge of the Ugam Range, which stretches from southeast to northwest. To the southwest of "Sypuchaya" peak, the "Obmanchivaya" peak rises in the ridge. The peaks "Sypuchaya" and "Obmanchivaya" are separated by a saddle. Two ridges extend from "Sypuchaya": the "Northwestern" and the southern ones. The northwestern ridge is not of mountaineering significance. There is no glaciation on the southern side of "Sypuchaya"; the northern side was poorly visible due to bad weather. We leave the intermediate camp located on the moraine by the lake at 5:00 AM and move eastward. The entire path from the intermediate camp to the saddle is the same as for "Obmanchivaya" peak. Upon reaching the saddle, we turn left (in the direction of travel), i.e., to the north. We begin our ascent to the summit first over scree and then over easy rock. During the ascent, we encounter 4 "jandarms" (rock pinnacles) that can be easily bypassed on either the left or the right. Simultaneous protection is used. After 1.5–2 hours, we reach a snowy ridge. We reach the summit in 1 hour of travel along the snowy ridge. The weather began to deteriorate at 11:00 AM; by 12:00 PM, it started snowing. We reached the summit at 1:00 PM. The time taken for the ascent was 8 hours. The summit is in the form of a dome of fine scree. The descent is made via the ascent route. The route corresponds to category 1B difficulty. The total time taken for the ascent and descent was 11 hours. The first ascent was made on May 13, 1962. Group leader: Participants:

• Skuratovich E.M.

From bivouac 3300 "Майские ночёвки", located on the Manas glacier moraine, entrance on the right side (in the direction of travel) of the glacier - 2 hours walk under the saddle. Ascent to the saddle on a snowy slope 30-35°, between Bokovoy Manas and Manas Glavny. Here you should rope up. Further movement along the Bokovoe ridge, on large-block talus, steepness 30-35°; movement - 1 hour. From the ridge, descend into a 10 m gap, handrails are necessary, protection via ledges, pitons. Further ascent to the summit on talus, here too handrails are recommended.

The ascent from the "Mazar" base camp to the assault camp, located under the shoulder of the West ridge on a large clearing, takes 3 hours. Departure from the camp at 7:00 in the morning. Move up the talus along the gorge to the ridge shoulder. It takes 2 hours to reach the shoulder from the camp. From the shoulder, ascend along the ridge, keeping to the left side of the large talus up to the pre-summit mandara "Zub". Then:

• ascend along the talus — landmark: ruined rocks;
• descend along vertical perils to a snowy isthmus;
• from the isthmus — to the summit along a snowy slope (15–20°).

The group's entry under the north buttress of Manas peak at 7:30 am from the 3300 m campsite on the moraine, uphill along the slope with a steepness of 30–35°; to the col (100–120 m). Rope up. From the col, move left — directly along the broken rocks. Simultaneous movement (2 hours). Approach the gendarme, which is bypassed on the left as you go. Then again along easy broken rocks to the second gendarme, which is also bypassed on the left. (Snow throughout the entire route.) Continuing along the ridge, bypass the third gendarme on the right and enter a wide icy couloir with a steepness of 35–40° (move in crampons, ice is 10–15 cm thick). Piton belay. Upward along the ice (in the spring period — covered with snow). 80 m to a rocky outcrop (belay spot); and then traverse right to the north ridge — 50 m, with an exit onto the north ridge. Further, bypass the rocks on the right side along the ledges and come under the "Trident" gendarme, which is passed on the left upward along inclined ledges (10–12 m). Alternating belay through outcrops, when passing inclined ledges — piton belay. After the "Trident" gendarme — exit onto a sharp edge (4 m), belay through outcrops. Further movement along broken rocks to a gap. Rope descent (10–12 m), rocks with a steepness of 70°. Movement continues along the icy slope of Manas' cap, covered with snow (move in crampons). Further upward with a traverse to the right to a rocky "tooth" (150–160 m). Then movement along the rocky crest to the pre-summit gendarme — rocks of medium difficulty, 10 m. Descent into the gap (rappel — 7 m) and to the visible summit — 5 min. Total route time — 11–12 hours

The approach from the "Майские ночёвки" bivouac. From the campsite, ascend to the North ridge. Further movement is upwards along the ridge, sticking to either the left or the right side. On average, after one hour of walking, two massive gendarmes are encountered (one after another), before which it is necessary to rope up. Then:

• A small saddle
• Control cairn I (landmark - a high finger-shaped rock) Further movement is along the ridge, with a rapid gain in altitude. Against the sky above, a massive gendarme in the form of a trident can be seen, 80-100 meters to the left of the route, which is approached by the Northeast ridge. The approach to the base of the gendarme is via moderately difficult rocks. A small wall, 2-2.5 m high, is tackled directly head-on. Then, the entire massif of the gendarme is traversed from the left along inclined ledges (in the autumn-winter period, these are snow-covered), 10-12 m - a bumpy section, with piton belays. From the inclined slabs, there is an exit onto a sharp rocky outcrop, about 4 m high. There is a small platform for organizing a belay. Then, along the crumbling rocks of the ridge, 15-20 m to the descent point to the base of the snow-ice dome of the summit. The descent is via a rappel dolipher, 10-12 m with a steepness of 70°. There is a possibility to organize a descent with subsequent rope retrieval through a protrusion.

Dzhailyk via Western Ridge (V. Ruzhevsky route, 5A cat.) The route is sometimes called “Women's Five” or “Dombay Five”, implying easy dry rocks (up to cat. V) that can be realistically climbed in a day even by women. We have a good opinion about women climbers, as this route is not that easy; moreover, in bad weather it becomes virtually impassable, unlike “Monakh”.

• A bivouac can be set up at “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki” (Upper Kichkidar Camps) or on the saddle below Donkin Pass.
• From the Western Yunom Glacier, move from the bivouac to the base of the Western Ridge of Dzhailyk peak.
• Via the avalanche debris and ice-snow slope of the Central couloir, along the rocks on the left side, approach the first inner corner at the base of the Western Ridge.
• From “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki” it takes about 1 hour. From here:
• Up the moderately difficult 30-meter inner corner, then via smoothed steep 40–50-meter slabs ascend to the Western Ridge of Dzhailyk peak.
• Via monolithic steep slabs of above-average difficulty with short difficult walls on the Western Ridge, ascend 200–250 m to the Lower Triangle summit plateau.
• From the plateau, 50–60 m up a steep smoothed slab of above-average difficulty, then 30 m up a wall with a chimney-crack to a rock outcrop.