From the base camp at the foot of v. Aosol, ascend along the trail along the stream in the direction of the Western Tsiruk, then - overcoming moraine ridges - exit to the glacier.
On the glacier, head towards v. Sadko, bypassing the moraines on the left, but not approaching the slopes of v.v. Aelita and Berendey - rockfalls are possible from there.
Approach the base of the ice-rock couloir leading to the saddle to the left of v. Sadko (2 hours 30 minutes). From here, it is visible that the wall of v. Sadko is intersected in its lower part by two new couloirs, going from the main ice-rock couloir from left to right upwards.
The couloirs are bounded by rocky, destroyed large ridges, leading to the main ridge of v. Sadko to the right of the summit.
0–I. Ascend up the main couloir (dirty ice with a high content of rubble, in the lower part of the couloir - 5–10 m of thawed, mobile layer of dirty rubble). Rockfalls!
Ascent up the couloir under the cover of the 1st ridge, bypass it on the left, ascend to the ridge. Here you should look around.
I–2. Along the rocky, destroyed ridge to the main ridge (movement is mostly simultaneous, in some places - alternating with belay through ledges).
2–3. Along the main ridge to the summit of Sadko (total from the foot - 2 hours). Route length - 25 km.
Options:
- Ascent via the 2nd ridge - apparently equivalent.
- Bypassing the 2nd ridge and overcoming the upper part of the wall of v. Sadko head-on - approximately 3B–4A category of difficulty, less logical and more dangerous.
3–4. From the summit, along the destroyed rocky ridge downwards - initially simultaneously.
4–5. Descend 20 m, descend to the saddle via rappels (loose rocks!). 5 m traverse and ascend to the ridge. Good place for belay.
5–6. From the saddle, ascend - initially a few meters to the left, then to the right of the ridge, bypass a large guarder, exit to a wide, but short ledge.
6–7. From the left part of the ledge - straight up, then up to the right along a monolithic wall with few cracks and holds.