Description of the ascent to the summit "Sypuchaya" (4000 m above sea level) in the Ugam Range

The summit "Sypuchaya" is located in a lateral ridge of the Ugam Range, which stretches from southeast to northwest. To the southwest of "Sypuchaya" peak, the "Obmanchivaya" peak rises in the ridge. The peaks "Sypuchaya" and "Obmanchivaya" are separated by a saddle. Two ridges extend from "Sypuchaya": the "Northwestern" and the southern ones. The northwestern ridge is not of mountaineering significance. There is no glaciation on the southern side of "Sypuchaya"; the northern side was poorly visible due to bad weather.

We leave the intermediate camp located on the moraine by the lake at 5:00 AM and move eastward. The entire path from the intermediate camp to the saddle is the same as for "Obmanchivaya" peak. Upon reaching the saddle, we turn left (in the direction of travel), i.e., to the north. We begin our ascent to the summit first over scree and then over easy rock.

During the ascent, we encounter 4 "jandarms" (rock pinnacles) that can be easily bypassed on either the left or the right. Simultaneous protection is used. After 1.5–2 hours, we reach a snowy ridge. We reach the summit in 1 hour of travel along the snowy ridge.

The weather began to deteriorate at 11:00 AM; by 12:00 PM, it started snowing. We reached the summit at 1:00 PM. The time taken for the ascent was 8 hours. The summit is in the form of a dome of fine scree. The descent is made via the ascent route. The route corresponds to category 1B difficulty.

The total time taken for the ascent and descent was 11 hours. The first ascent was made on May 13, 1962. Group leader: Participants:

• Skuratovich E.M.
• Bashlykov D.A.
• Filinov V.K.
• Dyusimaliev M.T.