6. Traverse of the Suaryk massif from east to west (P. Yakuts route, cat. 4A). The path from the village of Verkhny Baksan to the initial bivouac on the platforms in the upper reaches of Zugully is described in route 4. From the platforms (a group of 4–8 people) ascent along grassy slopes to the right of the scree descending from the moraine rampart (rockfall along the scree!), and at the top exit to the moraine rampart. Further up along gentle snow-covered scree and simple rocks to a narrow (3–5 m wide) couloir-chimney descending from the col between the Eastern Gendarme and the ascent of the Eastern ridge of the Suaryk East summit. From the platforms 2.5–3 hours. From the scree straight up along the 120-meter couloir-chimney (rockfall, "live" stones, piton belays!). The couloir gradually narrows,

. v. Suaryk (3B), traverse, sk, 3B cat. sl., route by V. Lazebny, 54 The path from the Adal-Su gorge by car to the v. V. Baksan. From the Kyrtyk river valley to the abandoned kosh at the confluence of the Zugull river and the Kyrtyk river. After fording the Zugull river past the kosh, we ascend to the right (orographic) slope of the Zugull river and traverse it at a height of 800–1000 m. From the mouth of the Zugulla, we ford it to the left bank, move along a faintly marked trail above the river to the bivouac site — 1.5–2 km. The bivouac is located under a huge talus descending from the Suaryk peak. The bivouac site is noticeable by a large limestone fragment, on top of which a tourist stone indicator (tur) is built. The path from v. V. Baksan takes 5–6 hours. From the overnight stay, the path goes along the talus (keeping to the left side) and leads under the walls of v. Suaryk.

DESCRIPTION

First ascent of the northeast ridge of Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak of cat. diff.

by the group of instructors from "BAXAN" alpine camp on September 15-18, 1958

Caucasus Sylan gorge

Brief characteristics of SYL-TRAN-KEL-BOSHI peak.

Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak (3,806 m) is located in the watershed ridge running east from Elbrus. It separates the Su-Boshi valley from the Irik-Chat valley. The following peaks are located west of Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak in this ridge:

• Mukol
• Kagem
• Irik-Chat to the south of Kuby-Santyg. The path to Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak starts from Verkhniy Baksan settlement.

Peak 3200.0 (Terskolak Zapadny) Route: via the southern edge Category of complexity — 4B cat. dif. (rocky) Leader: V. Babkin Central Caucasus, Prielbrusye, Terskol gorge Section in KMGV — 2.4. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to peak 3200.0 (Terskolak Zapadny) "via the southern edge 4B cat. dif. (rocky)". At the mountaineering event of the Higher Mountain School "School of Mountain Training of the Ministry of Defense of the Russian Federation" in 2012. Region: Kabardino-Balkarian Republic. Dominant country: Central Caucasus Gorge: Terskol. Ridge: dominant massif: southeastern spur of Elbrus "Terskolak - TersakItkolbashi". Peak: 3200.0 m (Terskolak Zapadny). Route: via the southern edge. Level of complexity: 4B cat. dif. (rocky).

Report

On the ascent to the summit 3580 m (Terskolak 1st Western) via the South counterfort of the Western ridge — first ascent, Category III complexity

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Terskol gorge, section number according to the 2013 classification table 2.4 from the Chipperazau pass to the Gumachi summit
2. Summit Terskolak 1st Western (3580 m) via the S. counterfort of the W. ridge
3. Proposed Category III complexity, first ascent
4. Route type: rock
5. Height gain 680 m, length 1160 m (according to altimeter). Length of sections with Category 4 complexity — 65 m, sections with Category 3 complexity — 210 m. Average slope of the route 36°, main part — 45°.
6. Number of protection elements used: 23
7. Time taken: 6 hours, 1 day

Starikov Gennadiy, Moscow (author's photo) Trapezia 2A. Ascent passport.

1. Region — Caucasus, Adylsu gorge. (tab. – 2008, p. 42, item 171) Peak name — Trapezia (3697), S slope and W ridge.
2. 2A cat. of difficulty (first ascent)
3. Route type — rock.
4. Route elevation gain from the glacier — 600 m Route length — 1200 m
5. view from the Adylsu gorge
6. view from the glacier

в. ULLU-KARA, 4302 m, 3rd cat. diff., complicated category, N. Popov's route, '34 From the "Djantugan" base camp, follow a good trail along the right (orographically) lateral moraine of the Kashkatash glacier. After passing the overnight spot near the "Red Rocks", descend to the glacier and traverse its gently sloping middle section, sticking to its left (in traverse direction) side. At the beginning of summer, there are many hidden crevasses here. Approaching the upper icefall of Kashkatash (opposite the hanging glacier on the slope of Pik Germogenov), overcome its left (in traverse direction) side under the slope of Ullu-Kara. This section is hazardous due to possible rock and ice fall from the ridge wall above. By the end of summer, traversing the icefall becomes more difficult due to numerous crevasses. After reaching the snow plateau above the icefall, traverse it to the right and ascend a low-angle slope, sticking to its right (in traverse direction) side, to reach the Kashka-Tash pass. From Djantugan, it takes 5-7 hours; descent from the pass takes 2-4 hours. From the pass, ascend to the summit via a steep, not clearly defined ridge with fragile rocks. After passing two bivouac sites:

• the first one is 30 minutes walk from the pass,
• the second one is another 30 minutes further, start ascending the main ridge. The path goes along a rocky ridge to the right (in traverse direction) of a couloir, then along the left (in traverse direction) side of a wide snow slope to a small talus, from there - through a narrowing couloir and a chimney. The upper part of the ascent to the main ridge is the key section of the route and is done with rope protection.

Central Caucasus

ULLUKARA 4037 m via the northwest wall buttress. (Tentatively — 2B cat. difficulty.)

1. Temirov Anatoly Magometovich 1st class
2. Temirov Mukhamed Magometovich 1st class Bauman MSTU Sports Club.

Geographic Description of the Climbing Area

The ULLUKARA peak is located in the Main Caucasian Range, between the peaks of Bashkara to the east and Pik Volnaya Ispaniya to the west. This section of the Main Caucasian Range is in the Baksan Valley area. The Baksan Valley area is one of the most visited regions by climbers in the Caucasus. The alpine camps located in the area, good roads, and numerous beautiful peaks make this area attractive to climbers. Many climbing routes of varying difficulty have been laid out in this region. The most beautiful peaks of the Caucasus, such as Ushba, Shkhelda, Chatyn, Volnaya Ispaniya, and many others, are located in this part of the Central Caucasus. The Ullukara peak is situated in the upper Adylsu gorge. A good automobile road leads from Nalchik to the "Djan-Tugan" alpine camp. From the "Djan-Tugan" alpine camp to the Kashkatash glacier plateau, a good trail is laid out. Further, the path goes along the Kashkatash glacier to the ascent to its upper plateau. The ULLUKARA peak is a huge rocky massif covered with a powerful ice cap. It rises with black walls above the Kashkatash glacier. To the northeast from Ullukara, a short northern spur extends with the peaks of Pik Germogenova and Chegetkara. Between the peaks of Ullukara and Pik Germogenova lies a glacier. The weather in this region is usually good, with short, rare periods of bad weather. Fogs are common, coming from the south through the Kashkatash pass.

ASCENT RECORD

1. Climbing category — ice and snow.
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus.
3. Peak Ullu-Kara, 4302 m, via the right part of the north-eastern wall, ice and snow route.
4. Proposed difficulty category 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1300 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 170 m, average steepness 47°.
6. Pitons used: rock — 13, ice screws — 60, protection gear — not used.
7. Total climbing hours — 19.
8. Number and nature of bivouacs: one, lying down.
9. Full name of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:

Fig. 57

1. Ascent to the peak Perednyaya Chotcha (3637 m) via the counterfort of the northern wall — category 4B difficulty (fig. 57)

From Dombay plain by car to the Severny shelter. From the Severny shelter:

• via a log across the Khokel river
• further along the trail on the left side of the Chotcha gorge to the snowy couloir under the northern wall of the Chotcha peak Ascent:
• up the middle of the couloir to its middle part
• then via the "ram's foreheads" and uncomplicated rocks