Geographical location, sporting characteristics of the area

The Zun-Khandagai valley is located in the middle part of the main watershed ridge of the Tunkinskie Goltsy mountains in the Eastern Sayan. The alpine-type relief of the area with sharp peaks and heavily serrated ridges provides opportunities for classifying a number of sports routes in this valley. Routes are classified only on SOAN-3B, 4A, 4B. The absolute heights of the valley are close to 3000 m. The peak Shelekhov (2810) is located in the northwest corner of the upper valley, forming with its southern and southeastern ridges a small, cirque-like feature, which opens into a wide couloir leading to the northwest lake of the valley. The passage of routes is often complicated by significant snow cover, which falls early in autumn and melts mostly by the end of May or June. The approach with a load to the base camp at the forest boundary from the Tunkinskaya valley, along the road leading from the village of Tagarkhay, takes one and a half walking days.

Route description

From the base camp at the forest boundary - to the right (orographic) upper cirque. From the lake to the northwest, the entire route to the very summit is clearly visible (photo 1). Passing along the eastern shore of the lake, ascend to a gentle ridge that leads directly to the route. At the end of the gentle part of the ridge - rope up.

As­cent pass­port to the ver­tex of Gen­er­al Ko­rya­kov (3032 m) via South-Western ridge, cat. III dif­fi­cul­ty. East­ern Say­an, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy range, Ula­gol gul­ly, sec­tion 6.1. 2. Ver­tex of Gen­er­al Ko­rya­kov (3032 m) via North­ern slope. 3. Pro­posed cat. III dif­fi­cul­ty, first as­cent. 4. Char­ac­ter of the route is rocky. 5. Al­ti­tude dif­fer­ence 630 m. dis­tance 950 m. av­er­age steep­ness 47°. 6. Pitons driven: rocky and stop­pers 11 pcs. 7. Team's work­ing hours — 7 h. 8. No biv­ou­acs on the route. 9. Group: Ak­syo­nov A.V. CMS, Vas­il­yev M.Yu. 3rd sports rank, Vi­no­gra­dov N.N. 3rd sports rank, Go­lo­vin V.V. 3rd sports rank, Gey­da­rov K.G. 3rd sports rank, March­u­kov K.F. 3rd sports rank. 10. Coach Afa­na­syev A.E. MS. 11. As­cent to the sum­mit and re­turn April 30, 2010.

Ascent passport for Starkova peak, 3187 m, via South-Eastern couloir, cat. 2A diff.

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy mountain range, Ganga Khairyim valley, section 6.1.2.
2. Starkova peak 3187 m, via South-Eastern couloir.
3. Proposed cat. 2A diff., first ascent description.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Height difference — 400 m, length — 700 m, average steepness — 40°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock and chock stones — 9 pcs.
7. Team's walking hours — 11 h.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. First ascender and first traverser of the route — Starkov, 1963.

Report on the First Ascent to General'sky Pogon Peak via the "Da B" Route on the Central Western Counterfort, Category 3B, by the Team "Nevozmozhno eto ne navsegda" from March 27, 2020, to March 27, 2020.

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO ULA-GOL PEAK 2911 m, VIA THE SECOND BUTTRESS OF THE EASTERN WALL, CATEGORY 4B DIFFICULTY, BY THE TEAM OF THE "GORy BaikalA" CLUB FROM 27.03.2020 TO 27.03.2020

I. Ascent Report

Report

On the first ascent

Tortuga Peak (2770 m) – eastern ridge, route 3A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent – Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Moigota valley, 6.1.2

Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants: Tokmachev A.A., Lipchenko A.V. The ascent was made on June 22, 2022. 2022

I. Ascent Passport

6.2 Western Sayan Golova, 1970 m, 5A, via the center of the SW wall Prokofiev D.E. July 10, 2013

Ascent Record

1. Region — Sayan Mountains, Western Sayan
2. Peak — Golova, 1970 m, via the center of the SW wall. 5A.
3. Assumed — 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock
5. Route description: elevation gain — 350 m. route length — 445 m. length of 6th category sections — 100 m. length of 4th category sections — 345 m. average slope — 57°, main part 70°
6. Equipment left on the route: total 0

End of the R0–R1 section. Denis Prokofiev at the R1 station Start of the R1–R2 section Denis Prokofiev on the R2–R3 section Key sections of the route, R3–R5. Approach to the R3 station. Denis Prokofiev approaching the chimney, key section R4–R5, shot from the R4 station

Siberian Federal District and Far Eastern Federal District Championship in Alpinism

Technical and Altitude Class, 2024

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit of Pik Zvezdny 2265 m via the 3rd wall, category 5B, by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai on July 29, 2024 2024

I. ASCENT PASSPORT

Peak KhFTI-80 via the S ridge. Ovcharenko V.D. Elbrus E ridge # 2.4

Report

On the first ascent of Peak KhFTI-80 via the southern ridge from Assol Pass

Team of climbers from the National Science Center "Kharkov Institute of Physics and Technology"

2009

Passport

1. Elbrus region, Irik-Chat gorge, # 2.4
2. Peak KhFTI-80, height 3760 m; via the southern ridge from Assol Pass; coordinates of the summit: 43°19′16″ ± 10″ N, 42°32′37″ ± 10″ E.
3. Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.
4. The route is rocky.