— 2 — The foaming distribution follows this pattern:

• Nn-lp­ppp­purov
• Tu­tup­ppp­-lsr- li­s
• Aran­chso­v-Јi­lov Then count by (2) and (3). The section is not very long, 30–40 m, but steep. At the pass, all the participants of Катьцит and Перопутная started at 9:00. Then they moved along the gully, traversing the funnels of Перопутная and Медведна (4) and (5). The ascent to the peak Бпо­б — (6) is done via destroyed slopes with simultaneous belay. We reached the peak at 14:30. We started descending from the peak at 14:30. We descended to the ridge below the funnels of Бпо­б and Бо­две­дна. From this point on, we descended, roped together, along a gentle slope that descends to the river Бпо­б. Further, we followed the right bank of the river Бпо­б or a trail through a clearing with a rainforest. We returned to camp at 15:40. V N O L N

1. The ascent to the peak Бпо­б via the western ridge is a Category 2A route.
2. The height of the peak is approximately 440 m.

Rocks of medium difficulty, in some places it is necessary to use iron belay. The first pronounced gendarme is bypassed on the left along inclined shelves, then movement continues along the ridge. The second gendarme is bypassed on the right along a snowy-icy couloir with rocky exits, then movement continues along the right side of the ridge. The col - before the third gendarme is traversed (stonefall hazard, iron belay). From the col, descend down to the left side of the ridge: one rope on difficult rocks into a rocky-icy couloir. Cross the couloir, exit onto a snow patch to the left of the third gendarme. From the snow patch, down difficult rocks (chimney) - one rope down and along a snowy-icy slab to the foot of the third gendarme. Up the snowy-icy slab and the col between the third gendarme and the summit (stonefall hazard). From the col, exit into a wide couloir located to the right of the summit. Up the couloir to the pre-summit ridge - rocks of medium difficulty.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class — high-altitude and technical.
2. Ascent area — Matcha node, Turkestan Ridge.
3. Summit — peak Mushketova, height — 5300 m, ascent route via the center of the northwest wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1900 m; b) length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 930 m; c) average steepness (sections 1–32) — 73°, (sections 32–46) — 50°.
6. Number of pitons hammered for protection:

14 5.4.2.5. All-Union Championship of the Trade Unions DFSO on Alpinism 1988 Class of technical ascents

Report

Report on the ascent of Peak Ak-su North 5217 m via the north wall by the team of instructors of AUSB “Alay” Team Leader
Team Coach

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak gorge.
3. Peak, route: p. AkSu N. 5217 m, via the center of the N. face through the "nose" (P. Shabalin's route).
4. Complexity category — 6B, second ascent.
5. Height difference: — 1467 m. Route length — 1940 m, length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 255 m, length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 1350 m. Average steepness:

• main section of the route — 75.5°;
• entire route — 68°.

Ascent Log

1. Technical category.
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-su valley.
3. Peak Aktyubek (5125 m) via the right counterfort of the North face.
4. Proposed category 5A, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 1325 m. Total length: 2435 m, sections of category 5 — 200 m. Slope: overall on the route — 38°, on the wall section — 50°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 25, ice — 11. Chocks placed — 34.
7. Number of travel days — 3, hours — 24.
8. Number of bivouacs on the route — 2 (both convenient, in a tent).

Route Description by Sections

R0–R1. Start moving left and below the summit scree along the wall, then along the corner. Reach the flattening. 45 m IV R1–R2. Move along the gentle rocks under the overhang. It provides protection from falling rocks. 40 m III R2–R3. Move right towards the stream (rocks are falling along the stream). Left of the stream, climb the wall to reach the gentle rocks. 45 m IV R3–R4. Approach the wall. Climb through the crack using artificial aids (IT) with underclimbs. 20 m II, 20 m VIA1 R4–R5. Climb right through the crack, followed by a difficult traverse (10 m). Reach the gentle, smooth rocks left of the stream and climb up. Set up a station at the exit to simple rocks. 15 m VIA2–A3, 35 m IV R5–R6. Climb up, then through the corner, to reach the gentle rocks. Continue climbing up. 15 m IV, 30 m II R6–R7. Climb right and up to the scree, then along the scree right and up to the rocky ridge. 100 m I R7–R8. Climb along the ridge left and up to the base of the gentle, smooth slab. 80 m I–III R8–R9. Climb the slab left and up, then straight up. Reach the internal corner. 40 m V+ A1

ASCENT PASSPORT. I. Rock class. 2. Altai, Mensu gorge. 3. Belukha Eastern, via the pillows of the south-eastern slope. 4. Proposed — Category III, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 700 m, length: 1200 m, average steepness: 40 °. 6. Movement hours — 8 hours. 7. Overnight stays: 2 on approach, on the route — none. 8. Leader — Kuznetsova Tatiana Yurievna — II sports category. Participants:

ALPINIAD

of the Tomsk Regional Council of the All-Union Student Sports Society "Burevestnik"

Gorny Altai

Ak-kem valley July 10 - August 20 1963 Ascent to Vostochnaya Belukha from the cirque of Men-su glacier

Report

on the ascent to Vostochnaya Belukha via the south-eastern ridge (route category 3B) On July 26, 1963, a group of climbers, participants of the Alpinad of the Tomsk Regional Council of the All-Union Student Sports Society "Burevestnik", consisting of:

8. Kara — a lesson