118. Shkhara West via the South Ridge (combined route, L. Rollestone, category 5A, fig. 20, 21, 22). From Shkhara South (no. 117) descend along the snowy (with cornices) North Ridge to the col. Cross the snowy (with cornices) rocks of medium difficulty on the col, passing the gendarmes head-on, to reach a ledge. Bivouac. 7–9 hours from the initial bivouac on the East Counterfort. From the ledge, cross a sharp snowy ridge (cornice) and approach the ascent point of Shkhara West's South Ridge. From here, follow a rock shelf up and to the right, then ascend via a snow-and-ice gully to reach the South Ridge. Continue along the snowy rocks of medium and above-medium difficulty on the South Ridge to reach the base of a wall. Overcome the 25–30-meter difficult wall head-on. Continue along rocks of medium and above-medium difficulty, with some sections on the sharp snowy South Ridge, to reach a ledge below the II wall. Bivouac. 7–9 hours from the col bivouac. Overcome the 35–40-meter difficult II wall head-on, or possibly bypass it to the right via ledges. Continue along steep snowy rocks of above-medium difficulty (with cornices) to reach the base of the III wall. Make a difficult 40–50-meter ascent up the III wall to the ridge and exit onto the South shoulder. From the shoulder, follow the long snow-and-ice, partially sharp South Ridge (with cornices) to reach the summit of Shkhara West. 9–11 hours from the bivouac. 5–6 hours from the initial bivouac.

Башхауз, from the ridge. From the “Jangi-kosh” hut along the ridge of the right-bank (“crescent-shaped”) moraine to its flattening, then along the Sella glacier. Along the left edge or through the middle of the icefall (fig. 1) exit to the upper circus and through it (attention — hidden crevasses) — under the slopes with the Bash-a-uz-b ridge. To the right of the rocky outcrops from the glacier along the slopes with the ridge to the left to the talus counterforce coming from the pass. Go around the base of the counterforce from the left, ascend from it along the S slope. Along the ridge of the counterforce, then 30–40 m along the ice drop wall (steepness 50–60°) and along the flattening snowy slope under the Sella pass, 4–5 hours from the hut. From the pass along the S ridge simultaneously to the summit of the 1st “gendarme” (control tour), then down 30–40 m along the rocky shelves to the snowy slope and bypassing the 2nd “gendarme” to the right — to the ridge. The 3rd “gendarme” — head-on or to the right, and along the snowy ridge (attention — possible cornices to the left) through small rocky “gendarme” head-on to the summit. 3–4 hours from the pass. Descent from the summit:

• along the SW ridge to the snowy saddle,
• then to the left along the right side of the snowy slope (rockfall hazard from the left),
• to the Bezengi glacier and along it (attention
• Hidden crevasses, under the slopes of the Warsaw peak rockfall hazard — bypassing

see the next stage of the icefall in description 18. There's a bivouac on the moraine. From "Bezengi" Alpine camp it's 3–4 hours. From the bivouac (in rope teams? and with crampons!) along the glacier towards the left wall of the North-Eastern counterfort of the Krummkol summit:

• Uphill on a not too steep snowy slope to the bergschrund
• Behind it - up a steep 500-meter ice-snow slope, ascending left of rocks resembling "sheep's foreheads" of the first rocky ascent to the first steep slanting ice-snow slope
• Up the slope 70–80 m straight up to the second rocky ascent
• Under the ascent wall - on ice with several exits to simple rocks 150–170 m up-right (piton belay!) to the ice-rock couloir and up it to the rocky shelves
• From the shelves 80–100 m up rocks of medium difficulty with ice sections (piton belay!) ascent to the second rocky ascent
• From the ascent - up the second steep ice slope to under the wall of the third rocky ascent
• Under the wall - up-right on the ice slope, after 160–180 m exit to a rocky shelf, and up-left on rocks of medium difficulty to a platform

141. Lyalver — Tetnuld (the route is combined, by I. Shintlmeister, category 4B difficulty level, fig. 20, 22). From the village of Zhabishi, ascend via the trail on the left bank of the Tsanner River and, bypassing the first step of the icefall, descend onto the glacier. Along the left side of the glacier, approach the second step, which is traversed on its left side. The third step is also passed on the left via the snowy-icy slopes of the spur, and beyond it, exit onto the upper plateau of the Tsanner Glacier. On the moraine, in the center of the upper plateau, closer to the slopes of Tikhtengen on the Tsanner площадках (Tsanner sites), set up the initial bivouac. From the village of Zhabishi, it takes 10–14 hours. From the bivouac site, turn right

159. Orto­kara via the North Ridge

(combined route, category 2B, fig. 14, 17). The path from the "Chegem" tourist base (group of 4-12 people) to the upper plateau of the Shaurtu glacier under the northern slopes of Orto­kara with a starting bivouac at the end of the right-bank (orographically) moraine of the Shaurtu glacier is described in route 154. Cross the glacier plateau to the left side of the base of the North Ridge of Orto­kara. From the glacier, pass through the bergschrund snow bridge and ascend the snowy slope to the ice-and-snow North Ridge of Orto­kara. Along the left side of the North Ridge, approach the first 40-50-meter rock outcrop. Pass the outcrop via simple rocks on the left. Then, along the left side of the steep and sharp ice-and-snow North Ridge, ascend 250-300 m

Ukyu by the left edge of the W wall of the S ridge, 3B.

From the KSP "Golubiatnia" shelter, head to the glacier and along its left edge approach the left corner of the W. wall of the S. ridge of Ukyu. From the glacier, ascend the slope of the right-bank moraine to the left, and behind its ridge, through the gully between the gray (left) and black scree, reach the cape of the left edge. Another option: from "Golubiatnia" ascend the slope to the moraine ridge and then along the ridge approach the route. From "Golubiatnia" — 0.5 hours. Ascend the couloir to the left or right of the edge ridge for 20–80 m, then reach the edge ridge and continue with simultaneous protection via ledges and rock pitons to the control cairn on a wide terrace; from the start — 1 hour. To bypass the overhanging rocks on the left, ascend the rock wall for 120–150 m with good holds in the general direction under the "gendarme" that has the shape of a finger against the sky background. Depending on the conditions, 15–25 protection points may be required in this section (pitons, chocks, slings). After reaching the ridge: the key location is the sharp "gendarme," initially passed head-on, then along the ridge. Continue along the edge and the 3 slope to reach the gentle S. ridge and along it (cautiously — overhanging cornices are possible to the right) to the summit. From the start of the route — 6–8 hours. Descent along the SE ridge as described in 3 — to "Golubiatnia" — 1.5–2 hours. Hazardous areas: on the 3 slopes of the S. ridge — rockfall hazard (a lengthy detour of the lower part of the route is unacceptable), and overhanging cornices are possible on the pre-summit section of the S ridge to the right. Special equipment: rock pitons and chock stones — 12–15 pcs., working carabiners — 10–12 pcs., slings made of main rope — 2 pcs. (for extenders and protection on ledges).

Ukyu on the center of the 3rd wall of the S ridge, 3B.

The approach to the route is as described previously. The ascent begins via a couloir separating the left edge and the central buttress of the 3rd wall of the S ridge (be careful! - rockfall hazard). Before reaching the mouth of the couloir, exit to the right across the broken rocks to the ridge line. Then follow the ridge line to the end of the clearly defined buttress. Above the control cairn (Fig. 2) lies the route's wall section. Two options are possible. 1st - to the right of the ridge along the internal angle with an exit to the right and further up to the beginning of a sloping ledge 30-35 m. 2nd - to leave the ridge via a ledge to the left and ascend the wall, first straight up, then diagonally traversing right - up to exit onto the same sloping ledge. Along the ledge right and up 30 m, then straight up 150-180 m along the left wall of an internal angle with a steepness of about 60° with monolithic simple rocks (be careful! - shaded side, areas with formed ice are possible) to exit onto the edge of the 3rd wall. From the start of the route 6-8 hours. Further - as described previously. Depending on the conditions on the route, 25-40 points of piton protection are required. Descent along the SE ridge as described in 3 - 1.5-2 hours.

Hazardous areas

In the couloirs bordering the buttress, rockfall hazard; on the S ridge - overhanging cornices to the right are possible.

Special equipment

Rock pitons (including wedges) 12-15 pcs., working carabiners 10-12 pcs., loops made of main rope 2-3 pcs. (for extenders and protection on ledges).

149. Shaurtu Glavnaya via the Northeast Ridge (combined route, category 2A difficulty, Fig. 14, 16, 17).

From the "Chegem" tourist base (group of 4-12 people), ascend via a forest trail on the left bank of the Shaurtu River, then, after crossing the Tyutyurgu stream, continue up grassy slopes in a wide hollow between a large right-bank (orographic) moraine of the Shaurtu Glacier on the right and slopes of the western spurs of the Kargashilsky Ridge on the left. Then proceed along the moraine to the upper areas at the end of the moraine. From the "Chegem" tourist base, it takes 3-4 hours. From the moraine, enter the glacier and move along the northeastern branch of the Shaurtu Glacier (closed crevasses) towards a rocky outcrop, which you bypass on the left. Behind the outcrop, turn right, cross the heavily crevassed northeastern branch, and then reach the moraine at the foot of the western ridge of Shaurtu Glavnaya peak. Set up a base camp on the moraine. From the "Chegem" tourist base, it takes 5-6 hours. From the moraine, on the right side of the northeastern branch of the Shaurtu Glacier (closed crevasses), approach the saddle of the Shaurtu massif, located between the Glavnaya and Severny peaks. From the glacier, pass over the bergschrund via a snow bridge and ascend 200-250 meters up an icy-snowy slope (avalanche risk, belay required) to the saddle of the Shaurtu massif. On the saddle, turn right and ascend the snowy northeast ridge (cornices) to the first pillar. Overcome the pillar via easy ridge rocks. Then, along the snowy, sometimes sharp (cornices) 300-400-meter northeast ridge (cornices, belay required) and easy snowy rocks, reach the summit of Shaurtu Glavnaya. From the base camp, it takes 5-6 hours.

153а. Shaurtu Glavnaya - Shaurtu Severная

(combined route, category III, fig. 14, 16, 17). The path from the Bezengi alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the summit of Shaurtu Glavnaya is described in route 152. The descent from Shaurtu Glavnaya to the col of the Northeast ridge is described in route 149. From the col, traverse simple snow-covered rocks to reach the Maly Gendarme (Little Gendarme) and then proceed to a narrow snow saddle (cornice). From the saddle, traverse snow-covered rocks of the Bolshoy Shirokiy Gendarme (Big Wide Gendarme) on the Northeast ridge of Shaurtu Severная summit, reach the snow ridge, and follow it (cornice) to approach the Bolshoy Gendarme (Big Gendarme). Overcome the Gendarme along the ridge and then ascend steep rocky ridge to reach the summit of Shaurtu Severная. Time from Glavnaya summit: 4-5 hours.

54. Rtsy­vash­ki — G­yul'­chi (combined route by I. Leonov, category 4B, fig. 14). From the tourist center lodge under the slopes of the North-Eastern ridge of the Nameless peak, on a wide grassy clearing in the Kara­su valley, on the right bank of the Dykh­su river, at the entrance to the canyon of the same name (group of 4-8 people), descend along the trail to the Kara­su river and cross it via the bridge. From the river, ascend along the grassy slopes, then along the scree and simple, destroyed, partly steep rocks to the 1st gendarme of the South-Western ridge of Rtsy­vash­ki peak. Further along the long, destroyed, simple and moderately difficult, partly snowy (possible cornices) rocky South-Western ridge with short sections of above average difficulty, overcoming gendarmes head-on or bypassing them, approach the Big Gendarme. From here, along the snowy steep rocks of moderate and above