Ukyu on the center of the 3rd wall of the S ridge, 3B.

The approach to the route is as described previously. The ascent begins via a couloir separating the left edge and the central buttress of the 3rd wall of the S ridge (be careful! - rockfall hazard). Before reaching the mouth of the couloir, exit to the right across the broken rocks to the ridge line. Then follow the ridge line to the end of the clearly defined buttress. Above the control cairn (Fig. 2) lies the route's wall section. Two options are possible. 1st - to the right of the ridge along the internal angle with an exit to the right and further up to the beginning of a sloping ledge 30-35 m. 2nd - to leave the ridge via a ledge to the left and ascend the wall, first straight up, then diagonally traversing right - up to exit onto the same sloping ledge. Along the ledge right and up 30 m, then straight up 150-180 m along the left wall of an internal angle with a steepness of about 60° with monolithic simple rocks (be careful! - shaded side, areas with formed ice are possible) to exit onto the edge of the 3rd wall. From the start of the route 6-8 hours. Further - as described previously. Depending on the conditions on the route, 25-40 points of piton protection are required.

Descent along the SE ridge as described in 3 - 1.5-2 hours.

Hazardous areas

In the couloirs bordering the buttress, rockfall hazard; on the S ridge - overhanging cornices to the right are possible.

Special equipment

Rock pitons (including wedges) 12-15 pcs., working carabiners 10-12 pcs., loops made of main rope 2-3 pcs. (for extenders and protection on ledges).