Document #64752232 - Route Description

Lyalver — Tetnuld (the route is combined, by I. Shintlmeister, category 4B difficulty level, fig. 20, 22). From the village of Zhabishi, ascend via the trail on the left bank of the Tsanner River and, bypassing the first step of the icefall, descend onto the glacier. Along the left side of the glacier, approach the second step, which is traversed on its left side. The third step is also passed on the left via the snowy-icy slopes of the spur, and beyond it, exit onto the upper plateau of the Tsanner Glacier. On the moraine, in the center of the upper plateau, closer to the slopes of Tikhtengen on the Tsanner площадках (Tsanner sites), set up the initial bivouac. From the village of Zhabishi, it takes 10–14 hours. From the bivouac site, turn right and across the plateau (covered crevasses) approach the Northern slope of Lyalver peak. From the plateau, having passed the bergschrund, ascend 600–800 m up the gradually steepening icy-snowy slope (avalanches). Then, via steep snowy (loose rocks) simple and moderately difficult rocks of the 200–300 meter Northwest ridge-slope, ascend to the summit of Lyalver. From the initial bivouac, it takes 4–6 hours. From Lyalver, descend via the simple 300–350 meter rocky, then 100–150 meter icy-snowy slope (cornices) in the lower part of the broad Southeast ridge to the saddle. From the saddle, ascend 200 m up the icy-snowy (cornices), then via simple snowy rocky 80–100 meter Northwest ridge to the summit of 4310. From Lyalver, it takes 1–1.5 hours. From the summit of 4310, descend 200–250 m via the simple Southeast ridge (cornices) to the snowy saddle. From the saddle, via the steep 250 meter icy-snowy Northwest ridge (cornices), ascend to the Western shoulder of Gestola. From the shoulder, ascend 100–120 m up the Northwest icy-snowy (cornices) ridge. Bypassing to the right an ice crevasse, via the 60–80 meter icy-snowy slope (avalanches), exit onto the Southwest ridge. Here, turn left and via the simple rocky, then icy-snowy (cornices) Southwest ridge, ascend to the summit of Gestola (a cairn on the rocks of the southern side). From the previous summit, it takes 2.5–3.5 hours. From Gestola, descend 500–600 m down the simple snowy (cornices) rocks of the Southwest ridge to the connecting ridge. From the connecting ridge, turn left and descend 200 m down the icy-snowy slope to the Katyn plateau. Across the inclined plateau, bypassing the broken part, approach the Northeast slope of Tetnuld. Here, turn right and, having passed the bergschrund, ascend 120 m up the steep icy-snowy slope to the Adishi площадки (Adishi sites) of the saddle. Bivouac. From the initial bivouac, it takes 10–14 hours. From the Adishi площадки, via the snowy ridge, exit onto the Northeast slope of Tetnuld. From here, keeping to the right side of the steep (cornices, drops) icy-snowy, heavily broken, with difficult ice walls (ito) 600–800 meter North slope, ascend to the summit of Tetnuld. From the Adishi площадки, it takes 6–10 hours.

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