see the next stage of the icefall in description 18. There's a bivouac on the moraine. From "Bezengi" Alpine camp it's 3–4 hours.

From the bivouac (in rope teams? and with crampons!) along the glacier towards the left wall of the North-Eastern counterfort of the Krummkol summit:

• Uphill on a not too steep snowy slope to the bergschrund
• Behind it - up a steep 500-meter ice-snow slope, ascending left of rocks resembling "sheep's foreheads" of the first rocky ascent to the first steep slanting ice-snow slope
• Up the slope 70–80 m straight up to the second rocky ascent
• Under the ascent wall - on ice with several exits to simple rocks 150–170 m up-right (piton belay!) to the ice-rock couloir and up it to the rocky shelves
• From the shelves 80–100 m up rocks of medium difficulty with ice sections (piton belay!) ascent to the second rocky ascent
• From the ascent - up the second steep ice slope to under the wall of the third rocky ascent
• Under the wall - up-right on the ice slope, after 160–180 m exit to a rocky shelf, and up-left on rocks of medium difficulty to a platform

On the platform under an overhanging rock - a bivouac (slope is prone to rockfall!). From the initial bivouac it's 13–15 hours.

From the bivouac up-left to the inclined plate of the third rocky ascent summit:

• From the ascent - 160–200 m up along a not clearly defined ice ridge of the third ice slope to under the main rocky wall of the counterfort
• Ascent to the wall is possible by three variants

First variant:

• Straight up 35–40 m on steep rocky-ice facets (rockfall!)
• Then up a narrow 20-meter ice couloir and on rocks on its left side (artificial aids!)
• From the couloir - up on heavily destroyed 25–30 m rocks of medium difficulty, 10–15 m sheer plates (artificial aids!) and 40–45 m steep destroyed plate-like rocks - ascent to under the overhanging wall
• Under the wall - 12 m traverse right, to the couloir, and up it 20–25 m to the wall
• Further 40 m up-left on rocks, ice slope and 20-meter plate-like rocks - exit to a not clearly defined ice couloir
• The couloir is traversed up-right to a rocky cape and after 30 m - exit to the fourth small ice-snow slope

Second variant:

• Under the wall - 50–60-meter traverse right and 70–80 m straight up on rocks (artificial aids!)
• Then 40-meter traverse through a couloir right, to the main north-eastern ridge
• On the ridge and couloir - 100–120 m up, then right through a groove and on 70–80-meter rocks of medium difficulty - exit to shelves under the fourth small snow-ice slope

Third variant see in description 61.

From the wall:

• Straight up the fourth 55–60-meter ice-snow slope
• Then 100 m on rocks of medium difficulty, alternating with ice-snow sections

On one of the rocky shelves - a bivouac. From the first bivouac it's 9–10 hours.

From the shelves:

• 110–120 m up-right on a steep rocky-ice slope (belay!)
• Then under the wall - 20-meter traverse on ice right to the bridge of the North-Eastern counterfort
• From the bridge - on 100–120-meter rocks of medium difficulty and 50–60-meter sharp snow ridge (cornices!) - exit to the second rocky ascent of the Eastern ridge of the Krummkol summit
• On simple rocks and 150–160-meter snow-ice ridge (cornices!) - exit to under the third rocky ascent of the Eastern ridge
• Ascent to the ascent - on a 40-meter steep ice-snow couloir with rock exits (piton belay!)
• Behind the ascent - on a 250–300-meter wide snow ridge, 50–60-meter snow dome and simple rocks - ascent to the Krummkol summit

On the snow plateau under the summit - a bivouac. From the bivouac on the counterfort it's 8–10 hours.

Descent along the Southern ridge see in description 57.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants - 4 people.
2. Initial bivouac - mid moraine on the first stage of the Mijyargi glacier icefall.
3. Time of departure - 0:00–1:00
4. Equipment: main rope - 2×40 m; auxiliary cord - 10 m; rock pitons - 15–20; ice screws - 6–8; rock hammer - 2; carabiners - 14–16; crampons - 4 pairs; three-step ladder - 2; tent 1.
5. Bivouac locations - on shelves of the second rocky ascent (semi-reclining), on shelves of the third rocky ascent, on shelves above the main ascent, on the snowy Eastern ridge and on the Southern ridge.