10. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category: rock
2. Climbing area: Gvandra region of the Caucasus
3. Climbing route: v. Zamok via the South wall, 3930 m
4. Climbing characteristics: height difference — 900 m, average steepness — 85°, length of complex section — 600 m
5. Pitons driven:

• rock — 228
• bolt — 7
• chocks — 9

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing type — rock climbing
2. Climbing area — Uzunkol tourist center, Western Caucasus
3. Ascent route — Kirpich peak 3744 m, right part of the Western wall
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B
5. Route characteristics — height difference — 850 m
6. Pitons hammered for belaying:
   • rock pitons — 32 pcs.
   • bolt pitons — 0
   • ice pitons — 0

M29. Brick via the Western Wall along the gullies

(rock route, category 4B, first ascent by G. Sedov's team, 1969) The ascent to the plateau of the Myrdy Glacier is described in route M16. Move along the glacier to beneath the snowy slopes at the center of the western wall. The right-hand end of the wall "diamond" with black streaks on completely smooth walls, topped with an oblique series of cornices, is the landmark for the route's entrance. To the right of the cornices on the wall is a huge gully (do not enter — loose rocks!). In the next, narrower gully, on its right side, stands a separate rock resembling an enormous bottle with a neck tilted to the left — this is the landmark for the route's entrance. Below, to the right of the "bottle," are two rock formations forming the bases of counterforts-ribs ("gates"). Between them is a narrow snowy "tie." The left counterfort is the lower part of the large wall with black streaks, and the right one is the wall of the gully through which the lower part of the route passes. Under the right part of the gully's wall is a large rantkluft that narrows at the narrowest part of the "gates." Ascend from the rantkluft up the steep snowy slope to the start of the rocks. On the right side of the grey rocks (this is the lower part of the gully), reach the R1 ledge. From here, ascend via a cleft to a small ledge beneath a short rib — the edge of the R3 gully (monolithic climbing with small holds). Landmarks for further movement are:

• to the right above — an enormous, sharply protruding vertical rib-corner;
• to the left — the edge of the large gully.

Report

of the Sverdlovsk Regional Committee of Physical Culture and Sports team on the ascent to the summit of Kirpich (3800 m) via the NW wall in the USSR mountaineering championship. Category of technically complex ascents. Team coach and captainE. Sogrin Sverdlovsk 1969 Kirpich and the ascent route via the NW wall The radiostations were not available to the team or the camp due to a lack of power supply.

6. Team composition and technique for overcoming complex sections

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Main Caucasus Range from Nakhar Pass to Chipperazau Pass.
3. Ascent route — Kirpich Peak (3300 m) via the North face.
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1050 (face — 700), average steepness — 47° (face — 67°), length of complex section — 160 m + 120 m.
5. Pitons hammered: rock — 226, ice — none, bolt pitons — none.
6. Total climbing hours — 39.
7. Number of bivouacs — 3 (2 on the face): on ledges, in tents, snow present.
8. Team name — Team of Leningrad Regional Council of DSO "Zenit".
9. Team members: Ivan Yakovlevich Shestipalov — Master of Sports, leader; Boris Vasilyevich Gladkikh — Candidate for Master of Sports, Eduard Andreyevich Oshe — Candidate for Master of Sports, Vladimir Ivanovich Popov — Candidate for Master of Sports.

Report

ON ASCENDING KIRPICH PEAK VIA THE NORTH-WEST FACE, CATEGORY 5A ROUTE BY THE KAIS MPEI ALPCLUB TEAM FROM AUGUST 13 TO AUGUST 15, 2022

I. Climbing Report

Ascent Description

On July 13, the group, having completed preparations, left alpl Ulлу-Тау for alpl Uzunkol and arrived at their destination in the evening of July 14. July 15. After receiving the "start," the team headed to the wall of Kirpich, set up a base camp, dropped off some of their gear, and returned to Uzunkol the same day. July 16. The group retrieved the rest of their gear and, along with observers, moved to the base camp. They arrived under the wall in the first half of the day. The base camp was established on a rocky island within a 50-minute walk from the start of the route. This location was the most convenient and safe from rocks, which in the morning, when the crust was still frozen, rolled down to all the rock outcrops closer to the wall. The condition of all participants was excellent. Climbing preparation was scheduled for the morning. The duo, Zadorozhny — Rasspopov, were relieved of all bivouac chores and were put to bed early. They had serious work ahead. July 17. Day 1 of the assault, processing day! Early in the morning, the climbers headed under the wall. Their figures could be seen moving up the chimney. The weather was excellent! It was clear that the team was making their way up the chimney by climbing and advancing relatively quickly. The day passed unnoticed. The climbers returned to base camp. In 11 hours, they managed to cover a distance of 185 meters and hang ropes! This was a good start, especially since ladders were not used throughout this path, and a logical exit to the "otkol" via a fissure-chimney was visible above. The processed section was a narrow, inclined chimney formed by a giant rock outcropping detaching from the wall, sometimes disappearing and turning into walls.

To the Classification Committee of the USSR Alpine Federation V. Kirpich, 3800 m via the South Face, 5B cat. diff. (Chernoslivin's route) VARIANT 2nd ascent Group members: — Vasiliev B.P. — MS — leader — Shchedrin G.A. — MS — Oshe E.A. — CMS

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — ROCK
2. Ascent region — Gl. Kavk. ridge from Nakhar pass. 3. Ascent route — Mt. KIRPICH via South face, 0 variant. 4. Ascent characteristics: length — route 1000 m, wall 680 m; height difference — route 820 m, wall 670 m; average steepness — wall 90°; length of difficult sections — 680 m; 5. Pitons hammered: rock — 109 expansion — 13
3. Number of travel days — 3 Number of hours — 37, number of nights — 2, bivouac, no water. Team —

The summit of Dzhailyk has a 4B category of difficulty, the nature of the route is combined. The summit of Dzhailyk is located on the sixth north-western Adyr spur. To the east of Dzhailyk (in the eastern branch) lies the summit of Cheget-bashi, to the south lies the summit of Kichkidar, and to the west lies the summit of Tyu. The summit of Dzhailyk is surrounded by glaciers: the eastern and western ones, as well as the northern Pnom-Su. Three ridges branch out from the summit of Dzhailyk:

• to the Donkina pass,
• the eastern one - towards the glacier of the summit Dzhailyk Kinchat,
• the western one - turning into a long rocky fence, separating the glaciers of the western Dzhailyk and the northern Pnom-Su. To the north-east, Dzhailyk drops with sheer walls and steep slopes, falling into the ridge between the massifs of Dzhailyk and Tyu-Tyu-S. The route begins with an overnight stay on the Black Rocks in their branch from the western ridge to Dzhailyk, in the form of a short, barely noticeable rocky ridge. From the overnight site, it goes towards the main western ridge. At the beginning, the path goes along broken rocks to the first "gendarmes", which is bypassed on the left along a steep snow-ice slope. Above the "gendarmes" there is a snow shelf, then a simple rocky ridge of broken rocks begins. The length of this section of the ridge is 35-40 m. Having passed this ridge, they reach the second "gendarmes" with sheer walls to the north-west and east. This "gendarmes" is bypassed on the left along a snow-ice couloir. Having passed 35-40 m along the couloir, one should climb up a 5-meter sloping shelf, leading to a gentle slab. From the slab: