Chegem via the western ridge, combined, 3A

Route description:

We ascend to the Donkin pass along the snowy slope, followed by an ascent to the snowy pad of the northern ridge of the Kickhadar peak. The ascent leading to the Chegem peak begins from the pad. The ridge is characterized by a large number of gendarmes. The general direction is from west to east. The first four gendarmes are easily bypassed on the right. Move simultaneously with protection through the ledges, then exit to a platform, descend 10–15 m along the internal corner to the saddle between the gendarmes. There are two possible path options further: I. Bypass the main rock mass along the ledges 1.5–2 ropes below the ridge. II. Move along the ridge, overcoming the gendarmes head-on. Moving along the ridge, we come to the gendarmes with a saddle, deviating slightly to the left along the edge of the snow. The first one goes up to the crack, standing on the partner's shoulders. Secures the rope on which the rest climb. Further movement along the ridge with simultaneous protection to a smooth 3 m wall, with a narrow crack into which you can hammer pitons, but you can bypass the wall along the gap on the left. The movement continues:

• Again, simultaneous movement along the ridge,

ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. Ascent classification: technical. 2. Ascent area: (in accordance with KTMVG) Caucasus, from Chipperazau Pass to Kitlod Pass. 3. Peak, its height and route: Chegem, 4461 m, via the Northwest wall of the Northeast ridge. 4. Difficulty category: 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference 1250 m, average slope of the wall directly 75-80 degrees, average slope of the ascent route 50-55 degrees. Length of sections: 1st category difficulty — 0 m, 2nd category difficulty — 400 m, 3rd category difficulty — 570 m, 4th category difficulty — 330 m, 5th category difficulty — 150 m, 6th category difficulty — 80 m. 6. Pitons hammered in: For belaying: - Rock: 48

Moscow Alpinism Championship 2009. Technical Climbing Class

Central Caucasus

Report

On the ascent to Chegem peak (4461 m) via the NE wall of the NE ridge (first ascent) Team Leader: Sergey Nilov — Master of Sports Coach: Sergey Kutkin, Candidate for Master of Sports, 2nd category instructor.

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Central Caucasus, Chegem gorge
2. Peak: Chegem, height 4461 m.
3. Route: Via the North-Eastern wall of the North-Eastern ridge

Ascent Record

1. Region: Central Caucasus, Chegem valley, Adyr ridge, classified under KMGV as 2.4.1
2. Peak Chegem, 4461 m, ascent via the NE wall of the NE ridge (route by V. Forostyan).
3. Route category: 6A.
4. Route type: rock climbing.
5. Route elevation gain: approximately 1160 m. Route length: 1700 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty: 248 m, with 6th category difficulty: 108 m. Average steepness:
   • wall section: 92°;

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent type — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — spurs of the Main Caucasus Range from Chiperezlu Pass to Kitlod Pass.
3. Peak Chegem 4461 m via the North-Eastern wall of the North-Eastern ridge.
4. Difficulty category – 5B (certified).
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference – 1200 m
   • average steepness – overall 55°
   • walls – 80–85°
   • length of 5th difficulty category sections – 170 m

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, northern spur of the Main Caucasian Range, branching off from Mestia-Tau, Chegem node between Donkin and Freshfield passes.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Chegem, 4461 m, combined route along the north-eastern wall of the north-eastern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1290 m, average slope up to the summit ridge (i.e., up to R24 height difference 1120 m, absolute height 4320 m) — 55°. Average slope of the wall section (i.e., up to R14 height difference 435 m, absolute height 3600 m) — 88°. Length of sections: 2 — 500 m, 3 — 200 m, 4 — 650 m, 5 — 230 m, 6 — 320 m.
6. Pitons driven: | For belaying | For artificial support | | :----------- | :--------------------- | | Rock 164 | 31 |

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus; Adyrsky ridge; section according to the classification table 2.4.1. From the Gumači summit to the Kitlod pass (Adyrsu, Lekzyr, Chegem gorges).
2. Name of the summit: Chegem (4461 m), name of the route: via the North-Eastern wall of the North-Eastern ridge (V. Forstyan, 1977).
3. Proposed — 6A cat. diff.
4. Nature of the route: combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 1160 m (by altimeter). Route length: 1880 m. Length of sections:

• V cat. diff. — 148 m.
• VI cat. diff. — 138 m. Average steepness:

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area: Central Caucasus, Chegem gorge, table 2.4.1.№p. p154.
2. Name of the peak Chegem — route name N.E. wall N.E. ridge (Forostyan).
3. Route complexity: 6A.
4. Route type: Combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 1161 m
6. Route length: 1616 m
7. Length of sections: V difficulty category – 285 m; VI difficulty category – 226 m
8. Average steepness: main part of the route – 85°; entire route – 60°.
9. Number of anchors on the route: Friends – 81/10

Ascent Report on Mt. Chegem 6A Category of Complexity via Forostyan's Route on the NE Wall and NE Ridge, accomplished by the team of "Vershina" mountain club, Volgograd region. Ascent Passport

1. Region — Central Caucasus, Adyr ridge of the Main Caucasian Range, upper reaches of the western branch of Chegem gorge.
2. Mt. Chegem 4461 m. NE wall, NE ridge, Forostyan's route.
3. 6A category of complexity.
4. Combined route.
5. Height difference — 1290 m. Distance — 1936 m. Length of sections with V category — 308 m. Length of sections with VI category — 201 m.

Report

On the ascent of Peak Shchurovsky via the West face (through the "Gendarme" "Surkov")

Central Council of the DSO "Avangard"

Kiev — 1967

Data on team members