ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Tian Shan, Ugam ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: "Kergely" — 3887 m, via NW side
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 390 m
   • Average steepness: 65°
   • Section lengths: 2–300 m, 3–75 m, 4–75 m, 5–42 m
6. Pitons hammered in:

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent type: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: «Kyzylbash» — 4200 m via the center of the NE face
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 820 m
   • Average steepness: 84°
   • Length of sections: R1 45 m, R2 450 m, R3 315 m
6. Pitons hammered in:

Ascent Passport for

Mt. Okhotnichya (3099) (according to the 1989 classifier) Mt. Okhotnichy (3099) (according to the 2011 classifier)

Left part of the Western wall

October 9, 2011

Sheet 1, page 1.

Ascent Passport

1. Western Tian-Shan, Chatkal Ridge, Mazarsay river gorge №7,12 according to the 2011 classification table.
2. Peak Okhotnichya 3099 m. Left part of the Western wall. First ascent. Coordinates of the peak: 41303765 C; 70665860 C
3. Proposed — Category III complexity.
4. Character of the route: rock.

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Class of ascent. Technical
2. Area of ascent, ridge. Western Tien Shan, Talassky ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route. P. Teke, 3870 m, via the left South edge.
4. Proposed difficulty category. 2B
5. Route characteristics:

Location of the summit. The summit is located in the northeastern part of the Baubashata ridge, which is situated at the northwestern end of the Fergana ridge, and has an elevation of 3700 m (Fig. 1). The nearest settlement is the Toktogul hydroelectric power plant builders' settlement. Kara-Kul is located on the Frunze-Osh highway, 220 km from Osh (bus service). First ascent was made on October 6-8, 1972, by a group of climbers from Kara-Kul, consisting of:

• Morozov I.V. (leader),
• Romantsova S.Ya.,
• Telbuh P.S.,
• Voloshin A.A. Approach. From Kara-Kul settlement, drive along the road to the Kaindy river gorge for 45 minutes (17 km). Then:
• Follow the trail along the river.
• Cross to the left bank (here and further, orographically) and ascend to the Birch grove.

2B on Maly Zamok, Dugoba, Pamir-Alai. Description

The route to the summit Maly Zamok, 3rd ascent, is categorized as 2B, via the South wall and East ridge, Pamir-Alai, Dugoba. 1st ascent - Bobrov Alexey (Yekaterinburg) +1, May 2012. The approach from the Dugoba alpine camp is similar to the 2A route on M. Zamok via the SE slope and E ridge (classifier section 5.1.1. #31). After the "crossroads of three couloirs," we follow the trail towards the 2A route for 300 m. After 300 m, the trail to 2A turns right onto the ridge, and we go left (a cairn is laid) under the wall. The landmark is a dry tree on the ridge slightly to the right of the start of the route and a large stone plug - directly on the route line. We move left along the scree slope, bypass the rock outcrops, and enter the right onto a ledge under the start of the route. The approach takes 2-3 hours, overall 20-30 minutes less than to the start of 2A. The landmark is a large green arch, from which the route begins (a station on the arch), along the inner corner.

Description

Climbing Route to the Summit "Komsomolskaya"

The summit "Komsomolskaya" is located in a spur of the Kollektor Ridge on a crest branching off to the northeast from the summit Khamza. The height of the summit is 3900 m. The approach to the summit from the alplager "Dugoba" is upstream along the Dugoba River to the confluence of the Ulitor and Ak-Tash rivers (time 2 hours). From the confluence, it is upstream along a narrow gorge, with the summit as a landmark (see the approach diagram). The path through the gorge to the start of the route takes 1.5 hours. Here is a convenient place for a bivouac: plenty of firewood, water, and flat areas. The ascent route begins on a large grassy slope. Time 1 hour. In the upper part, this slope turns into a medium scree, which must be traversed upwards to the right in the direction of the summit. In the upper part of the scree, two large rock outcrops forming a gate serve as landmarks. Time 1 hour. Having passed through these gates, ascend upwards through the left rocky couloir with simultaneous belay. Time 45 minutes. The couloir leads to the pre-summit ridge. Continue moving to the right along the ridge towards the summit. On the ridge, there is a section of smooth rocks with a slope of 30°–40° and a length of 50 m. This section is overcome with alternate belay through outcrops. Rope rails are convenient for a large group. In June, these rocks may be covered with ice. After this section, continue moving towards the summit slightly below the ridge line. Time 30 minutes. The ascent to the summit takes 3.5–4 hours. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route and takes 1.5 hours. The nature of the route is rocky, but early in the summer, snow and ice are possible.

Brief description of the route approach

From Dugoba a/l, follow the trail to the confluence of the Ak-tash and Ulitor rivers, then continue along the Ulitor river trail to the moraine campsite. Then, follow the trail through two moraine ascents to the campsite under the high rocky ridge. From the campsite, ascend the scree gully to the destroyed black rocks and then rightwards along the scree to the rocky slabs. This is the starting point of the route.

MAIN ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS TABLE

Date	Section	Avg. steepness, deg.	Length, m	Terrain type	Difficulty	Condition	Weather	Rop.	Ice	Pit.
25/VII–80 г.	R0–R1	45	160	Rocks	2	Broken	Clear	—	—	—
	R1–R2	30	140	Rocks	2	Broken	—	—	—	—
	R2–R3	40	240	—	3	Broken	—	II	—	—

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Alayskiy ridge (northern spur)
3. Peak: Sauk Jaylyau Western 1st tower via the northern edge (first ascent)
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3A
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 710 m, average steepness 53°, route length details see appendix
6. Pitons used for belays to create I.T.O. rock pitons 31 — ice screws 1 — bolt pitons —
7. Total climbing hours 12

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Elbrus Eastern 5621 m.

from the east through the Achkeryakolsky lava flow Presumably 2A category of complexity Leader: Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich 2010 Addresses: 357500, Stavropol Territory, Pyatigorsk, Ogorodnaya st., 37-3, apt. 26 Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich, tel. +7-928-829-10-41, djilisutours@rambler.ru 357600, Stavropol Territory, Essentuki, Ordzhonikidze st., 84-3, apt. 43 Mashin Roman Ivanovich, tel. +7-928-285-57-46, romashin79@mail.ru 357700, Stavropol Territory, Kislovodsk, Olkhovskaya st., 14, apt. 1 Ovcharenko Danila Sergeevich, tel. +7-928-008-03-01, ovcharenko911@mail.ru