ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Tian Shan, Ugam ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: "Kergely" — 3887 m, via NW side
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 390 m
   • Average steepness: 65°
   • Section lengths: 2–300 m, 3–75 m, 4–75 m, 5–42 m
6. Pitons hammered in:
   • Rock pitons: 5
   • Chocks: 17
   • Bolt pitons: –
7. Travel time: 4.5 hours
8. Number of nights stayed and their characteristics: none
9. Participants' full names and their sport qualifications: Ezef Samel, Juraj Švolik
10. Date of ascent and return: May 8, 1988
11. Organization: Climbing Club "Altex"

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE

"Kergely" peak is located in the Ugam ridge (Western Tian Shan, southwest of "Sairam" peak — the highest point in the area).

From Chimkent city, take the asphalt road to Kaskasu settlement and then continue on the dirt road along Sairam-Su river to the base camp (see area map).

From the base camp, follow a good trail along Kergely river; in 4.5 hours, you'll reach the upper lakes where you can set up camp.

To approach the start of the route, go right from the upper lakes along the moraine under the NE wall; it'll take 1.5 hours from the campsite.

Descend from the summit southward via Kergely valley and then back to the upper lakes.

Kergely Peak