Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - rock. 2. Ascent area - Western Caucasus. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route - Larb, 2998 m, via the northeast wall. 4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 1000 m, length of sections with 5-6 cat. diff. - 395 m, average steepness - 65° 6. Number of pitons driven for belaying and creating artificial holds: rock - 135; ice - none; bolt - none. 7. Number of climbing hours - 25 hours.

The route in question is laid out on the northeastern side of the main peak of Layub Vostochny. The route can be conditionally divided into four parts:

• the lower part — a snowy slope, a snow-ice cone, rocks, below the "sheep's foreheads";
• the overhanging Northeast wall;
• the ridge of the counterfort;
• the rocky-snowy ridge of the summit. The route is generally complicated by solid rocky formations, heavily snowed, and sheer sections covered with accreted ice. The greatest difficulty is presented by a three-hundred-meter wall, with an overall steepness of more than 90°. The passage is facilitated by the presence of two giant internal corners crossing the wall in a zigzag from left to right, then from right to left (sections R4–R5, R5–R6, R6–R7) in the direction of the counterfort ridge. The most challenging part is the upper section of the wall (sections R9–R18), composed of ice-covered slabs with a steepness of 80°–90° and in places overhanging up to 120° and corniced. Further, the route passes along the complex steep rocks of the counterfort, transitioning into the rocky-snowy ridge of the summit.

Passport

Ascent

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Caucasus, Krasnodar Krai up to Marukh pass.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Layub, 2998 m via the eastern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4–6.
5. Route characteristics: length of sections: R0–R1 — 450 m; R2–R3 — 230 m; R4–R5 — 640 m; R5–R6 — 320 m. elevation gain 1000 m; average steepness — 50°.
6. Pitons driven — for belay — for exceptional circumstances.

2.1.25

Description

Traversing the "Laub" massif from east to west, category 2B difficulty. Height — 2900 m. (Photo № 2) From the base camp at "Kardyvach" lake, the path to the saddle of the Main ridge of "Laub" peak goes along the trail to the snow cone protruding from the couloir. We cross the snow cone from right to left and ascend to the steep grassy slopes covered with dense snow. Having reached the oval ridge, we continue moving straight north along it, in the direction of the visible couloir, which leads to the saddle — the beginning of the traverse. The path along the snowy oval ridge is straightforward and takes 1 hour 30 minutes to reach the couloir. Couloir:

• Completely covered with snow, with ice patches in some areas;
• Pressing to the left side, we use an ice axe for belay;
• On the way, there are small protruding rock outcrops, which are passed directly — the rocks are straightforward;

Characteristics of the Region

The peak "Layub" is located in the Western Caucasus where the Gagrinsky Range adjoins the Main Range. The area is relatively undeveloped in terms of alpinism. There are two classified routes in the region: – to peak "Smidovich" (3445 m) — category 3A difficulty – to peak "Layub" (2998 m) — category 2B difficulty The following peaks are of interest: – "Tsyndyshka" (3134 m) – peak "Kardyvach" (3041 m) – "Tskhvoa" (3241 m) – "Agepsta" (3263 m)

Ascent Passport

CLIMBING CLASS

CLIMBING AREA PEAK, ROUTE ESTIMATED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS

• NUMBER OF PITOONS DRIVEN
• NUMBER OF CLIMBING HOURS
• NUMBER OF NIGHTS ON THE ROUTE
• CLIMB LEADERS PARTICIPANTS

I. CLIMBING CLASS

Rocky terrain 2. CLIMBING AREA, RIDGE Western Caucasus, North-Western spur of the Sofiyskiy ridge between the Pshish and Sofia river valleys 3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE, ROUTE CHARACTER Bolgaro-Sovetskoy druzhby, 3206 m, via the Western ridge, rocky terrain 4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY 1B 5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS Height difference 350 m, average steepness — 35°

ASCENT CERTIFICATE

1. Type of ascent: rock climbing.
2. Region of ascent: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from Kardyvam mountain region to Marukh pass.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: "175 years of Kislovodsk", via the southern ridge, 3100 m.
4. Expected difficulty category: 1B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 300 m, average slope — 40°–45°, route length: | D.C. | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | |------|-----|-----|-----|-----|-----|-----|

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