Passport
- Region — Altai, Shavlo gorge, section number according to KMGV — 1.2.
- Peak — Kapitsa P.L. Peak (3720 m), according to CF S3
- Proposed category 3A, first ascent.
- Route type — combined.
- Height difference of the route 700 m Route length M Length of sections: difficulty category M, difficulty category M
- Insurance through ledges, 1 rock anchor driven
- Moving hours 6 h, 1 day
- Leader: Onishchenko V.P. — ICMS, participants: Muravyov E.A. — MS, Bastrikov V.P. — CMS, Lapshina M.A. — MS.
- Departure to the route: 7:00, July 23, 2002 Reach the summit — 13:00 Return to the bivouac — 17:00
Altai. Photo of Kapitsa Peak
Passport
- Region — Altai, Shavlo gorge, section number according to KMGV — 1.2.
- Peak — Kapitsa P.L. Peak ( ), according to CF
- Proposed category, first ascent.
- Route type (combined).
- Height difference of the route m (according to altimeter). Route length M. Length of sections V category. sl. m, VI category. sl. M. Average steepness: main part of the route — deg., whole route — deg.
- Approach to CF in crampons, insurance through ledges, 1 rock anchor driven
- Team's moving hours: 6 h, 1 day
- Leader: Onishchenko V.P. — ICMS, participants: Muravyov E.A. — MS
- Departure to the route: 6:00, July 23, 2002 Reach the summit — 13:00 Return to BL — 17:00
- Organization —
Route Description
From the base camp at Lake B. Shavlo, it took 8 hours to reach the moraine of the Shavlo glacier. On the next day from the bivouac on the moraine:
- approach to the pass Krutoy towards the peak – 1 hour;
- towards the counterfort (ridge), ascent along the snowy slope in crampons, bypass the lower rocky outcrop from the left (photo 1);
- further movement to the right and left along the rocky outcrops with alternating insurance and exit to the gendarme between Semenov Peak (left) and Kapitsa Peak (right);
- when descending from the gendarme towards the peak, 20 m of ropes are set up;
- from the saddle, ascent along the rocks (piton insurance), then along the right rocky ledge;
- further exit to the left side of the pre-summit ridge and along it to the summit.
Descent via the ascent route.
At the summit of Kapitsa P.L. Peak