M. 12.09.2000 № 115 ASCENT PASSPORT. №8,9

1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.
2. V.V. DVS — Krylya Sovetov, via the southern couloir of the North-Eastern ridge, traverse.
3. Category 3B difficulty, first ascent.
4. The route is ice-snow.
5. Height difference 500 m, length 4000 m, average steepness of the main part 40°.
6. Pitons used: ice screws — 4.
7. Team's travel time 6 hours.
8. Leader Afanasiev A.E. SP-2 stage.
9. Coach Afanasiev A.V.
10. Ascent and descent on August 20, 1995.

General view photo. Taken from Kanтейнер pass on August 18, 1999. Camera "Smena-8-M".

Panoramic photo.

In the background, the South-Chuya Ridge. Taken from v. Aktru on August 21, 1995. Camera Smena-8-M.

Brief sports characteristic of Karatash mountain.

Karatash is a mountain massif. The mountain is located in the spur of the North-Chuya Ridge on the watershed of the Big and Small Aktru gorges. It has unclassified routes: 1B, 2A, 2B, 3A, 5A, 6A category. Also, one unclassified route 4B category and one classified route 4A category via SST, which from 1979–2000 was not found from the north. Further assumptions that it is the same route, but the description is 5B in the western couloir. In addition, in this work we propose to consider three more first ascents and one variation. The mountain is composed of black shale. The southern slope is destroyed to a talus state, except for the eastern part. The northern side is also more destroyed to the west. In the eastern part: from R5 to the "palm", where the rocks are stronger, routes 6A, 6B category may be laid. The proposed description is brought to a common denominator of the complexity of the routes in the area. №1 and №2 are recommended to be climbed in safe snow-avalanche conditions; in summer — in the morning hours. №3 and №4 may be dry, passed with one overnight on the ridge. Scheme of routes on Karatash mountain.