SummitMate
@SummitMate
Route Description: Ю гребню
Description of the first ascent of Peak 4480.5 m in the Apay-Tau ridge via the snowy ridge, complexity category 2B, 8.5 walking hours.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Ascent class — technical.
- Ascent area: Alaisky ridge, Keksu river area.
- Peak, its height, ascent route — peak 4480.5 m, via the southern ridge (first ascent).
- Proposed difficulty category — 2A category of difficulty.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 525 m; rocky route; length of sections 5–6 km/tr; average steepness — 35°–40°.
- Pitons driven: for belay for creating artificial holding points. Rock — Ice — Bolt —
Route Description: ЮЗ стене С гребня
Climbing route description for Peak Skal'ny (4480 m) via the South-West wall and North ridge, category 36, in Pamir-Alay.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Climbing category — technical.
- Climbing region — Pamir-Alay. Alay Range.
- Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. Skalny, 4480 m via the Southwest wall, North ridge.
- Proposed difficulty category — 3B cat. diff.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m.
average steepness — 35–40°, length of sections:
- I — 800 m.
- II — 680 m.
- III — 515 m.
Route Description: зеркалу В стены
Description of a 5B category complexity route to the North summit of peak Skalniy via the "mirror" of the East face in the Kemisdikty gorge of the Alay ridge.
I. Climbing category - rock 2. Climbing area - Kemisdikty gorge, southern spurs of the Alay ridge. 3. Peak, its height, climbing route - Northern peak of Pik Skalny, via the "mirror" of the Eastern wall, 4421 m. 4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference of the route - 870 m, height difference of the wall section - 750 m, "mirror" 500 m, average steepness of the wall section - 87°, length of sections with 5-6 category difficulty - 690 m 6. Pitons driven: for belaying / for ITO rock 98 / 13, bolted 0 / 4, "heavenly" 0 / 6, chocks 14 / 17 7. Number of climbing hours - 29 hours 8. Number of nights and their characteristics:
Description of the ascent route to the Severny summit of Pik Skalisty via the NNE edge, difficulty category 5B, climbed by the MVO team in 1981.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — rock climbing.
- Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, southern spurs of the Alay ridge, Kemisdykty glacier.
- Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Skalny North summit, 4421 m, via NNE edge.
- Expected difficulty category — 5B.
- Route characteristics: rock climbing. — height difference — 950 m, — average steepness: — wall part: 66°,
Route Description: центр. кф. ЮЗ стены
Description of the ascent route to Peak Sinovyi, 5100 m, via the central counterfort of the northwest wall, category 5A difficulty.
Ascent Passport
- Climbing category: technical
- Region: Pamir-Alay
- Peak: Pik Synovey, 5100 m, via the central buttress of the southwest wall
- Difficulty category: 5A
- Route characteristics: rock climbing, elevation gain — 650 m, average slope — 65°, section lengths: 1 — none, 2 — none, 3 — 320 m, 4 — 260 m, 5 — 170 m, 6 — 5 m
- Pitons used: for belaying: rock 52, ice 0, bolted 0 for creating artificial holds: rock 2, ice 0, bolted 0
- Climbing time: 11 hours
Route Description: ЮЗ кф. и Ю гребню
Ascent to the summit of Syinovya Peak (5100 m) via the southwestern counterfort and southern ridge, category of difficulty 4.5A.
RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION
RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION
CLIMBING ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Ascent category — technical.
- Ascent area — Alai Ridge.
- Peak "Sыnovey", 5100 m, via the southwest buttress and south ridge.
- Category 5A difficulty.
- Elevation gain of the route 800 m, length of 5th category
Route Description: траверс 6-ти вершин
Traversing six peaks of the Altai Range: Suyen Peak, Tereshkova Peak, Bykovsky Peak, Popovich Peak, Nikolaev Peak, Gagarin Peak, category of difficulty 5A.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: traverse.
- Ascent area: Southern spurs of the Altai ridge: Kok-Su valley.
- Traverse of peaks: Sons 4950 m — Tereshkova 4870 m — Bykovsky 4840 m — Popovich 4800 m — Nikolaev 4900 m — Gagarin 4850 m.
- Estimated difficulty category: 5A.
- Route characteristics: Height difference: 1330 m, length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 460 m, average steepness.
- Pitons used for passage: Rock pitons — 67, ice pitons — none.
- Total hours of climbing — 34.5.
Route Description: СВ ребру
Description of a technical ascent to the summit of Tekelik (5080 m) via the Northeast Ridge, category 5B difficulty, climbed by a group of climbers in 1977.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent classification: technical. 2. Ascent area: Southern spurs of the Alay Ridge, Kок-Су valley. 3. Tekelik Peak, 5080 m, NE edge. 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference 5080–5820 = 1260 m, length of technically difficult sections 540 m, average steepness 60°. 6. Protection: 63 rock anchors, 29 ice screws, 23 rappel rings with carabiners. 7. Total climbing time: 23 hours. 8. Number and characteristics of bivouacs: two bivouacs, good conditions.
Route Description: С баст. В гребня
Ascent via the northern bastion of the eastern ridge of Tekelik peak (5080 m) in the Alay Range, category 5B, second ascent.
PASSPORT
- Technical category
- Alayskiy ridge (Pamir-Alay)
- v. Tekelik via the northern bastion of the eastern ridge
- Proposed 5B cat. diff., second ascent
- Height difference of the wall sections R0–R13 — 440 m, R23–R32 — 255 m; length of sections R0–R13 — 505 m, R23–R32 — 335 m
- Pitons hammered in
- rock 87
- drilled 0
- chocks 13
Route Description: Ю гребню
Ascent to Teneruak Peak (4925 m) via North-West Ridge, grade 3B, first ascent.
I. Climbing category
technical 2. Climbing area, ridge Alaisky 3. Peak, its height, climbing route Tekelik Yuzhny named after Oлеко Dundich 4925 m via the Southern ridge 4. Proposed category complexity 3B (first ascent) 5. Route characteristics: height difference ridge 1000 m length of sections 5–6 c/tr