Ascent Passport

I. Rock class. 2. Western Caucasus. 3. Mt. Dombay Eastern (3950) via the center of the North Face (Gubanov's route). 4. 6B category of complexity. 5. Height difference 1460 m, route length 1710 m, length of sections with 5-6 category of complexity 892 m, average steepness of the route — 64°, average steepness and height differences of sections: Lower wall 60° (2490-2950), central wall 78° (2950-3390), edge 50° (3390-3670), summit tower 70° (3670-3950). 6. Pitons hammered: rock screw-in, ice screws

PASSPORT

1. Class — rock
2. Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass.
3. Peak Dombay Eastern, 3950 m, via the Centre of the North wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6.
5. Height difference: 1350 m, length 1905 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 850 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 63° (2600–3923 m), of which 5–6 cat. diff. (2600–3400 m) — 68°.
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolts | Nuts | Ice screws | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :------: | | 169 | 4 | 109 | 1 |

Fig. 43

1. Ascent to the summit Main Domбай-Ulgen (4040 m) from Domбай Saddle (via the northern edge) — 3Б category of difficulty (Fig. 43 and 44, left)

From Domбай clearing along the trail, to the right of Chuchkhur waterfalls, to Ptysh overnight stay. From Domбай to Ptysh overnight stay 3–4 hours. From Ptysh overnight stay along the trail to the left — up to the left-bank moraine of Domбай glacier. Along the moraine to the rocks to the left onto the snow and through the "barany lby" to the right-bank moraine (glacier collapse is possible!). Then exit to the left side of the glacier. Further ascent along the left side of the glacier, after 300 m transition to the right onto the rocky ridge, along the scree and destroyed rocks into a narrow crumbly couloir and along it to the Domбай Saddle. From Ptysh overnight stay 4 hours. From the saddle upwards (in bundles!) along the scree and несложным rocks to the steep 20-meter ascent, which is bypassed to the right along steep inclined plates (hook insurance!). Further along the right side of the ridge to the yellow ascent, which is passed first from the left, and then from the right. Further path along the ridge. Further:

• Subsequent two ascents are bypassed along the shelf to the right

№ 582 p.34 January 26, 1988 72

ROUTE DESCRIPTION

69. to Mt. Dombay/Gl./ via North face 5A cat. diff. V. Budanov, 38 Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass

DESCRIPTION

Ascent to Mt. Dombay-Ulgen Main via North face 5A cat. diff. From Dombay plain through Chuchkhur pass, then traverse right — exit under East ridge of Mt. Maly Dombay-Ulgen — bivouac. From Dombay plain — 5–6 hours. From bivouac, first along the eastern ridge 190–120 m, then along the northeastern slope of Maly Dombay-Ulgen and through a bergschrund, exit under the northeastern wall of Mt. Glavny Dombay-Ulgen. Further ascent up difficult rocks 60 m (rocks are smooth, with few cracks), then exit right onto a steep snowpatch (Rockfall hazard!!!). The snowpatch is traversed right-up, and then up rocks of medium difficulty in the direction of a spalling. Near the spalling — a flat area, possible bivouac.

PASSPORT

1. Rock class
2. Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass
3. Peak Dombay (Main) via north-eastern wall
4. Categorized route 5B category of difficulty
5. Height difference: 787 m Length — 1100 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 345 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 62°, including 5 category of difficulty — 78°.
6. Pitons hammered: — 126 | rock | bolt | chockstones | ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: |

2170 73

Order No. 582, clause 34, January 26, 1988

Route Description

70. to Mt. Dombay (Main) via the Northeast face, category 5B. By A. Ovchinnikov, 56. Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass

Description of the ascent route to Mt. Dombay Main via the Northeast face, category 5B

From Dombay clearing, follow the trail to Chuchkhur waterfalls and further to Chuchkhur pass. From the pass, traverse right along the northeastern slopes of Mt. Dombay Small and Mt. Dombay Main, and exit under the Eastern ridge of Dombay Main. Bivouac. From Dombay clearing — 5–6 hours. From the bivouac, first along the eastern ridge for 100–120 m, and then along the northeastern slope of Mt. Dombay Small across the glacier and, further, through the bergschrund, exit under the northeastern face of Mt. Dombay Main. From the bivouac — 2–3 hours (depending on the glacier condition). From the glacier, ascend 40 m to the right-upwards along the slab-like rocks (monolith) of the face to an internal angle. Ascend left-upwards through the internal angle to a 10-meter wall. Exit onto the counterfort via difficult rocks of the wall. There are sufficient places for organizing belay. Ascend 400 m along the wet monolithic rocks of the counterfort (rock is slab-like, smooth, with few cracks) towards the base of the face (lower half of the counterfort is covered with ice and snow. Crampons are desirable!). In the upper part of the counterfort, a place for an overnight stay can be found. Further, ascend 20 m right-upwards through the internal angle, and then 60 m along difficult and very difficult rocks to an inclined talus shelf (live rocks!). Traverse left along the shelf to the outer angle and ascend along it to a wall.

USSR Climbing Championship 1973. Technical Climbing Category

Ascent of Main Domбай-Ulgen peak via the South Face (First Ascent)

The route was climbed by the team from the "Dombay" mountaineering camp under the "Burevestnik" sports society. Coach: Master of Sports of the USSR, R.P. Stroganov. Western Caucasus — 1973 — Fig. 2. South Face of Main Domбай-Ulgen peak Since the assault team was within sight of the observation group for the first three days, the latter was able to provide clear guidance to the assault team.

Class — technical. 3. Caucasus. Dombay area. Gv. Dombay (4046 m) via South face, V. Korotkov's route. Climbing category 6A. Height difference 1040 m. Length 1580 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 69 degrees. Length of sections with V–VI category — 850 m. Pitons hammered:

• rock — 5/0
• ice — 4/0
• protection gear — 116/0
• slings on protrusions — 31/0. Climbing hours — 20. One bivouac lying down in a hollow under the summit buttress. Leader — Andrey G. Shvyrev, Candidate Master of Sports, 1st sports category. Team members:

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — wall ascent
2. Ascent region — Western Caucasus
3. Ascent to v. Dombay Glavny via the southern wall (4046 m) category 6B complexity. Korotkov's route.
4. Wall section height difference — 800 m total route length — 1660 m section lengths:
   • category 6 — 220 m
   • category 5 — 720 m
5. Average steepness of the wall section — 70–80°

Passport

of the ascent made in the USSR alpine climbing championship in 1973 I category ascent — technically difficult 2. Region of ascent — Western Caucasus 3. Ascent route — Main Dombay-Ulgen 4040 m, South wall 4. Characteristics of ascent — height difference 1040 m

• average steepness 63° Length of difficult sections 210 m

5. Pitons hammered in: rock 121 ice — screw 1