Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - rock. 2. Ascent area - Western Caucasus. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route - Larb, 2998 m, via the northeast wall. 4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 1000 m, length of sections with 5-6 cat. diff. - 395 m, average steepness - 65° 6. Number of pitons driven for belaying and creating artificial holds: rock - 135; ice - none; bolt - none. 7. Number of climbing hours - 25 hours.

108427.2

FIRST ASCENT ROUTE DIAGRAM (according to UNAF) to the summit of Kelbashi via the North ridge ~16 km

I+ The summit of Kelbashi (3243 m, photo I) is situated in the Sofiyskiy ridge between the Stolichny and Karadjasch passes. It is present on all topographic maps. The name is local. The first ascent was made by a group led by S.A. Chuеnko in January 1982 as part of the traverse "60 let KChAO–Peshtera–Septemvri–Kelbashi". This route is categorized as 3A. From the Karadjasch pass to the summit of Batak via the south ridge, there is a categorized route 2A. The present first ascent was made within the framework of the Stavropol krai sports committee alpinada "Arkhyz-88" by members of the rescue team of this event. The north-eastern slopes and part of the north ridge up to the junction with the spur running down to the summit of Septemvri (see the orographic diagram) are covered with ice. Only the summit area is free of it. From the "Syrzavod" base camp, the path initially follows the Kashka-Ecshek stream, then in the direction of the saddle between the summits of 60 let KChAO and Peshtera. Approximate time — 3 hours.

Ascent Route

Climbing type — rock. Climbing area — Caucasus, Krasnodar Krai. Peak, its height, ascent route — Lajub via N-E wall, 2998 m. Proposed difficulty category — 5B (KTPV, 2.1 clause 6). Route characteristics:

• Elevation gain — 900 m
• Length of sections:
  • R4 category: 620 m
  • R5 category: 440 m
  • R6 category: 110 m
• Average steepness of the route — 50–52°
• Wall section steepness — 72–75°

ASCENT PASS

1. ASCENT CLASS — rock
2. ASCENT REGION — Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Soffiy Range between the upper reaches of the Sofia and Ak-Airy rivers
3. PEAK, ROUTE — peak "MELIORATOR" (proposed by the first ascenders), 3055 m via the North couloir and East ridge
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 2A
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS — combined, via a snow-ice couloir and a rocky ridge, height difference 460 m, average slope — 45°, ridge — 25°
6. HOOKS DRIVEN IN — 3 ice screws, 2 rock pitons
7. TRAVEL TIME — about 8 hours
8. NUMBER OF NIGHTS — not required on the route
9. ASCENT LEADER — Zaporizhchenko E.V. — Candidate Master of Sports, instructor

Ascent Passport

I. ASCENT CLASS 2. ASCENT AREA, RIDGE 3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE, NATURE OF THE ROUTE

• Rocky
• Western Caucasus, North-Western spur of the Sofiyskiy ridge, Psysh river basin
• “Komsomolets Stavropolya” (as named by the first ascenders), 3290 m, via the Eastern ridge, snow-rocky

4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 2A
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS

• Height difference — 350 m, average steepness — 45°

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Description

First ascents on v. Nadezhda via the eastern ridge, approximately category 1B difficulty. From the base camp, follow the left bank of the r. Sofiya (orographically) to its confluence with the r. Ak-Airy. Then, up and to the left, along the left (orographically) bank of the r. Ak-Airy to the first belt of "baраньи лбы" ("sheep's foreheads") — 1 hour of walking. The belt of "baраньи лбы" is bypassed from the right, following a small stream. Then, to the left across small meadows overgrown with rhododendron. The route proceeds up a medium scree slope to a shoulder, beyond which lies the upper part of the Ak-Airy river valley. Here, a green, flat clearing with a nearby stream of clear water makes for a suitable starting bivouac site. From the first belt of "baраньи лбы" — 1 hour. From the starting bivouac, proceed up the valley. The valley levels out after a slight ascent. Ahead, a tongue of a small glacier coming from beneath the Ak-Airy pass comes into view. Cross it in the direction of the southeastern slope of v. Nadezhda. The glacier is gentle, crevasse-free, and open. Traverse the southeastern slope of v. Nadezhda with a gradual ascent towards the first major "gendarme" on the eastern ridge. Rope up before reaching the first gendarme! In rope teams, navigate the scree slopes and inclined ledges, bypassing all gendarmes on the left, and ascend in the direction of the pre-summit gendarme. The gendarme is bypassed on the left up to a couloir (live rocks!!!) that passes between the gendarme and the summit. Up the couloir, straight up for about 60 m, to reach the summit of Nadezhda. From the start of the route to the summit — 1 hour of walking. Descent follows the ascent route.

Fig. 1. Map of the Orlenok massif area. Peaks: Western (3180 m), Main (3190 m), Eastern (3140 m). On the map - З, Гл, В.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Karachay-Cherkess Republic, Arkhyz, Psyish River valley
3. Peak, route: Orlenok Eastern, 3140 m via Western spur and South-Eastern ridge
4. Expected complexity category: 1B, first ascent
5. Height difference:
   • 600 m;
   • total route length - 1500 m;

Peaks:

• Orlenok Eastern (3140.0)
• 3010.0
• 3000.0
• 2900.0 (Severnye zubki) Route "Traverse of Orlenok Eastern peaks (3140.0 – 3010.0 – 3000.0 – 2900.0 (Severnye zubki) from northwest to southeast)" Category — 2B (combined). Leader: V. Babkin. Western Caucasus, Orlenok gully, Karadzhash ridge. Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the alpinist route "Traverse of Orlenok Eastern peaks — 2900, 3000, 3010 (Severnye zubki) from northwest to southeast" 2B category (combined), made on the annual alpinist event "Championship and primacy of NP 'Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pa' 2012" (class "First ascents"). Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic. Mountain country: Western Caucasus. Valley: Orlenok gully. Ridge: Karadzhash mountain massif. Peaks:

Peaks 3031–3007 (Orlenok Vostochny — Orlenok Tsentralny) Route: traverse of peaks 3031 and 3010 from east to west Cat. diff. — 2A (combined) Leader: S. Bernatsky Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok balk, Orlenok mountain spur Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAM­BLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the mountaineering route to peaks 3031–3007 (Orlenok Vostochny — Orlenok Tsentralny) "Traverse of peaks 3031 and 3010 from east to west" 2A cat. diff. (combined). At the competitions in mountaineering "Pobeda Cup" NP "Club of Northern Travels "Sauk-Pai"" (class "First Ascents") in May 2013. Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic Mountain country: Western Caucasus Gorge: Orlenok balk Ridge: Orlenok mountain spur Peaks:

• Peak 3031 (Orlenok Vostochny)
• Peak 3010 (Orlenok Tsentralny) Route: traverse of peaks 3031 — 3010 from east to west 2A cat. diff. Difficulty level: 2A cat. diff. (combined) (approximately) Prepared by: