Ascent Passport

1. Kullumkol gorge (eastern branch of Adyr-su gorge). According to the 2008 classification table 2.4.1.
2. Peak Shogentsukova, 4081 m, via the northern slope.
3. Proposed — Category III difficulty, first ascent
4. Route character — ice and snow
5. Height difference of the route: (by altimeter or GPS) Altimeter and GPS are not used. Route length: technical part of the route 210 m, total route length 450 m. Section lengths: Category V difficulty — 4 m (ice wall 70–80° at the beginning of the technical part of the route), Category VI difficulty — 0 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 48°; total route — 32°.
6. "Streams" (pitons) left on the route: All ice screws (10 pieces) are removed.
7. Team's walking hours: 9 hours 30 minutes, 2 days (including approach to the bivouac)
8. Leader: Zhigir Sergey Petrovich, Candidate Master of Sports

ADDRESSES:

LLC SOAB "Ullutau": 361602, KBR, Nalchik, Ph. 8-8662-77-09-87 TEAM LEADER (report-related issues): 300001, Tula, Karla Marksa St. 130, A.V. Rasskazov home ph. 8-4872 42-59-94 E-mail: tulalp@yandex.ru COACH: 360017, KBR, Nalchik, Kirova St. 12, apt. 50, Yu.I. Porokhnya home ph. 8-8662-74-08-65 Elevations marked in the report were determined visually and with the aid of the main rope. The Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from Chipperazau Pass to Ortokara peak

Report

on the first ascent of Shogentsukova peak via the South-Eastern wall, approximately 4A category of difficulty. Ullu-tau 2007

Route Passport

1. Mountain system — Caucasus, Adyr-su gorge. Name of the peak: Shogentsukova peak Peak number according to the 2001 classification table: 2.4.161
2. Route name: via the South-Eastern wall
3. Category of difficulty: 4A Passage: 1st passage

Shogentsukov Peak

Petukh pinnacle R20 250 m 2 Θ R19 5 m 4+ 70° R18 20 m 2 Θ R17 20 m 4+ 80° R16 20 m 3 50° Θ R15 35 m 3 60° R14 50 m 3 60° Θ

61. Yunomkara via the South-Eastern Ridge (combined route, category IIb, fig. 5, 7). Yunomkara via the South-Eastern Ridge, category IIb (M. Misher et al., August 12, 1914; S. Golubev, P. Panyutin, N. Steingoglu, August 25, 1914). From the Bashil tourist center, follow the trail on the right bank of the Bashil River to the Maly Chegem River, which is a left (orographic) tributary of Bashil. Here, turn right and ascend via steep easy rocks, then 'ram's brows' on the right bank of Maly Chegem to the right-bank moraine of the Chegem glacier. Continue along the moraine, and, bypassing the icefall on the right, reach the upper plateau of the Chegem glacier and move to its left side. On the left side of the glacier (closed crevasses), approach the saddle of the Freshfield Pass, located between the peaks of Orubashi on the left and Yunomkara on the right. Here, turn left and, crossing the snow bridge over the bergschrund, ascend the steep ice-and-snow slope, then easy and simple, destroyed and snow-covered rocks to the Freshfield Pass. The path from the "Jailyk" alpine camp (group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac at "Sredne-Kichkidarske overnight stays" is described in route 73. From "Sredne-Kichkidarske overnight stays":

• On the left side of the Yunom glacier (closed crevasses), approach the saddle of the Freshfield Pass, located between the peaks of Yunomkara on the left and Orubashi on the right.
• Here, turn left and ascend the ice-and-snow slope (avalanches), then snow-covered, heavily destroyed easy and simple rocks of the wide slope to the Freshfield Pass.

Passport

1. Climbing category — technical;
2. Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from Chipperazau Pass to Ortokara peak, Adyrsu-Dzhailyk spur;
3. Yunom peak, 4365 m, via the West Face;
4. Category 4A, first ascent;
5. Height difference: 500 m; Distance: 960 m; Distance of category 4-5 sections: 135 m; Average steepness of the main sections: 58°;
6. Pitons driven:

Ynom-Kichkidar, combined, 3A

Route Description

From the Ullu-Tau alpine camp, the path goes through the Djailyk alpine camp, then crosses the Kullum-Kom river via a bridge and follows a trail along the right bank up to the terminal moraine of the Yuzhny Ynom-Su glacier. The ascent to the moraine takes 1.5 hours. Follow the trail on the moraine to ascend to the glacier and reach its right (orographically) side, along which you should proceed to the so-called srednekichkidar bivouac. It takes 2 hours from the camp to the bivouac. From the bivouac, move along the right side of the Yuzhny Ynom-Su glacier to a counterfort descending from the Freshfield Pass. The pass resembles "Gates" - two rows of rocky outcrops. It takes 3 hours from the bivouac to the pass. Then, descend from the pass about 20 meters down the snowfield to the east, and then traverse left to a couloir descending from the southeast ridge of the Ynom-Kara-Tau peak. Climb out of the couloir onto the ridge on its left side. The path to the summit continues along rocky steps resembling adjacent slabs. These steps lead to a gully. Cross the gully to the right and ascend the rocks on its right side (in the direction of travel) to a saddle. The path goes along simple rocks (slabs) to the summit. The summit is a sharp ridge, about 2 meters high, with a crevice in its middle part. The ascent from the Freshfield Pass takes 2 hours. From the summit, the path follows the ridge to the end of the massif, where a descent is made down a wall (40 m rope) to a snowy saddle. Then, a large gendarme is bypassed on the left along a snowy-icy slope, and a straightforward ridge is reached. The following gendarmes ("hares") are also bypassed on the left, leading to the ridge of the "Kichkidar" peak. The summit is covered with smooth rocky slabs. Return to the "hares" gendarmes and descend to the bivouac along the Zapadny Ynom-Su glacier, keeping to the left side.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, NW spurs of Adyr ridge, north of South Sabalyk glacier, from Adyrsu gorge side.
3. Peak 3800 m, from Southeast, first ascent.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 1B.
5. Elevation gain of the route 400 m.
6. Pitons used 1/0.
7. Number of climbing hours — 7 h.
8. No overnight stays on the route. Bivouac on South Sabalyk glacier moraine.
9. Leader Kiselev Nikolai Petrovich, Candidate Master of Sports.

Kenchat

202. Kenchat via the North Ridge (Category 1B route, A. Zyuzin, S. Katsnelson, A. Kaverin, F. Kompaneyets, L. Khodyush, August 7, 1938). The path from the Adylsu alpine camp through the Tyutyusu gorge to the rocky plateau in the upper reaches of the Tyutyusu gorge is described in route 184. From the plateau, turn left and first traverse the glacier, then the gentle moraines and scree to reach the left branch of the unnamed glacier flowing from under the Killar Pass. This is the starting bivouac. It takes 6–8 hours from the last grove. From the bivouac, enter the left branch of the glacier and ascend along its right edge to the upper snowy plateau. Traverse the plateau (many hidden crevices!) towards the wide

Report

On the first ascent

of Mt. Ozernaya, 4081 m, preliminarily classified as 4A category of difficulty, ice and snow route, completed on August 17, 2021. Region: Central Caucasus Area: 2.4.1. From the peak Gumachi to the Kitlod pass (Adyr-Su, Lekzyr, Chegem valleys) Content: I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION Description of the ascent area.