- Yunomkara via the South-Eastern Ridge (combined route, category IIb,
fig. 5,
7).
Yunomkara via the South-Eastern Ridge, category IIb (M. Misher et al., August 12, 1914; S. Golubev, P. Panyutin, N. Steingoglu, August 25, 1914).
From the Bashil tourist center, follow the trail on the right bank of the Bashil River to the Maly Chegem River, which is a left (orographic) tributary of Bashil. Here, turn right and ascend via steep easy rocks, then 'ram's brows' on the right bank of Maly Chegem to the right-bank moraine of the Chegem glacier. Continue along the moraine, and, bypassing the icefall on the right, reach the upper plateau of the Chegem glacier and move to its left side. On the left side of the glacier (closed crevasses), approach the saddle of the Freshfield Pass, located between the peaks of Orubashi on the left and Yunomkara on the right. Here, turn left and, crossing the snow bridge over the bergschrund, ascend the steep ice-and-snow slope, then easy and simple, destroyed and snow-covered rocks to the Freshfield Pass.
The path from the "Jailyk" alpine camp (group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac at "Sredne-Kichkidarske overnight stays" is described in route 73.
From "Sredne-Kichkidarske overnight stays":
- On the left side of the Yunom glacier (closed crevasses), approach the saddle of the Freshfield Pass, located between the peaks of Yunomkara on the left and Orubashi on the right.
- Here, turn left and ascend the ice-and-snow slope (avalanches), then snow-covered, heavily destroyed easy and simple rocks of the wide slope to the Freshfield Pass.
- It is safer to move along the simple destroyed rocks of the small ridge to the right of the ice-and-snow slope.
© Naumov A.F. Chegem — Adyrsu. 1980
