SummitMate
@SummitMate
Route Description: В ребру
Ascent to the summit Burevestnik (2929 m) in the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, description of the route, altitude difference of 750–800 m, route difficulty level.
Brief geographical description of the area
The peak "Burevestnik" (2929 m) is located in one of the lateral ridges of the Tunka Goltsy ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains. The Tunka Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, stretching in a latitudinal direction for 200 km. The highest point of the ridge reaches 3266 m above sea level in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Khairym gorge. In general, the ridge has sharp alpine forms with deep gorges and wide glacial cirques. For over 100 km - from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shu-Mak pass in the west - there are many peaks in the ridge that are of great interest to climbers. The forest boundary on the southern slopes is 1800 m, on the northern slopes 1600-1700 m. The snow cover almost completely disappears by the end of summer. Glaciation is found only in the western part of the ridge. The peak "Burevestnik" has an elevation of 2929 m above sea level - the highest point in the area (Peak Per'ya 2996 m). The nearest settlements are Arshan and Tagarhay, 25-30 km away. There is a dirt road to the Moigota gorge. It takes 8 hours to reach the base camp on the forest boundary from the gorge. From the base camp, ascend the gorge to the Moraine Ridge. 300-400 m later, turn left to the edge of the "Hanging Valley". Ascend via medium and large scree and rock sections.
Section R0–R1
From the edge of the "Hanging Valley", move right to the ridge. Connect on the ridge. Move simultaneously along the left slope. The ridge is 400 m long. Average steepness is 20°. (Photos 1, 2, 3, 4, 5).
Section R1–R2
Route Description: Ю гребню
Description of the ascent route to the summit "Burevestnik" (2929 m) in the Tunkinskie Goltsy range of the Eastern Sayan, including the characteristics of the area, approaches, and technical information about the route.
Petrel 2929 m, 2B, October 31, 1978. V. Monomarchuk + 5 people (height difference 630 m, steepness 40°, snow depth 5 cm, 6 h).
Photo 2. The route from the Birop gorge side. Sections:
- R2–R3
- R4–R5
- R3–R4
Map of the ascent area. The route is assault (2 groups). Б. лагерь — base camp.
Brief administrative and geographical outline of the ascent area
Peak 2929 m («Petrel») is located in the eastern part of the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge of the Eastern Sayan, in the valley of the Moygota River. Vegetation is typically taiga:
Description of the route to the summit of Urta in the Burevestnik ridge, complexity category, technical information, and details of the ascent in 2029.
Urya in Burevestnik 2029
Route Description: Ю гребню
Description of the ascent route to the summit "Burevestnik" (2929 m) in the Tunkin Mountains of the Eastern Sayan, category of difficulty 2B.
The class of ascent is rocky. Area of ascent: Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Mountains ridge: Peak, its height, ascent route: "BUREVESTNIK", height 2,929 m, ridge crest. Estimated category of difficulty: 2B. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 630 m, including 2B–3A — single slope of 40°. Number of pitons: for belay — 5, including rock pitons — 5, climbing pitons — 0, bolt pitons — 0. Number of climbing hours — 6. Number of nights and their characteristics — none. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualifications:
Team coach — Mikhailov Andrey Andreevich
Date of departure and return:
- departure — October 31, 1978
- return — October 31, 1978
Route Description: ЮВ кулуару ЮЗ гребня
Climbing report on the first ascent to the summit of General Koryakov via the SE couloir of the SW ridge, rated as 26 category of difficulty.
Report
On the first ascent to the summit of General Koryakov via the SE couloir of the SW ridge, category 2B, by the team "Невозможно это не навсегда" (It's impossible not to be forever) from March 27 to March 27, 2019. 2019
I. Ascent Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Pyotrko Pavel Vladimirovich, 1st sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Pyotrko Pavel Vladimirovich, 1st sports rank Panova Alena Mikhailovna, CMS Abramov Grigory Alexandrovich, Badge Kiselnikov Pavel Alexandrovich, Badge Kozyreva Alena Timofeevna, Badge Desyatova Darya Nikolaevna, Badge Mashtakova Natalia Gennadievna, Badge |
Route Description: В гребню
Ascent to the summit Gorets Eastern via the eastern ridge, category of complexity 2B, detailed route description and technical documentation.
Ascent Card for Mt. Gorets Vostochny, 2457 m, via the East Ridge, cat. 2B
- East Sayan, Tunskinskie Goltsy ridge, Terasa dvukh karov (Vetryany region), section 6.1.2.
- Gorets Vostochny peak, 2457 m, via the East Ridge.
- Proposed category 2B, first ascent.
- Route type: rock.
- Height difference 300 m, length 600 m, average slope 30°.
- Pitons driven: rock and chocks, 17 pieces.
- Team's travel time — 6 hours.
- No overnight stays on the route.
- Group:
Route Description: Ю гребню
Description of the ascent route to the summit Gorets Zapadny via the southern ridge, category of difficulty 2A, first ascent in 2011.
Ascent Certificate for v. Gorets Zapadny, 2461 m, via the Southern Ridge, cat. 2A
- East Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Terrace of two cirques (Vetryany region), section 6.1.2.
- Peak Gorets Zapadny, 2461 m, via the Southern Ridge.
- Proposed category 2A, first ascent.
- Route type — rock.
- Height difference — 450 m, length — 860 m, average steepness — 30°.
- Pitons hammered: rock and chocks — 6 pcs.
- Team's travel time — 5 hours.
- No overnight stays on the route.
- Group:
Route Description: З кулуару, траверс
Traversing Gorets Zapadny and Gorets Vostochny peaks in the Tunkin Goltsy mountain range, via the western couloir, complexity category.
Ascent Certificate for Goretz Zapadny 2461 m – Goretz Vostochny 2457 m, via the Western Couloir, traverse, category III complexity.
- Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy ridge, Serebryanoe valley (Vetryany region), section 6.1.2.
- Traverse of peaks Goretz Zapadny 2461 m – Goretz Vostochny 2457 m, via the Western Couloir.
- Proposed category III complexity, first ascent.
- Route type — rocky terrain.
- Height difference — 500 m, distance — 900 m, average slope — 20°.
- Pitons hammered: rock and wired — 15 pcs.
- Team's walking hours — 7 hours.
- No overnight stays on the route.
- Team members:
Route Description: кф. ЮВ ребра
Report on the first ascent of the category 2A route to Dalnaya Peak (3063 m) via the southeastern edge spur in the Eastern Sayan.
Report
ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF MT. DAL'NYAYA 3063 m, VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE SPUR, APPROXIMATELY CATEGORY 2A DIFFICULTY, FROM OCTOBER 20, 2018 TO OCTOBER 20, 2018. Irkutsk 2018
I. Ascent Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Glazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich (Master of Sports) |
Route Description: между ромбов СВ склона
Description of the ascent route to the summit on May 9 (2578 m) in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, complexity category 2B, length 1100 m, elevation gain 500 m.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Class — rock climbing.
- Area — Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy ridge, Kyngarga valley.
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Devyatoe maya, 2578 m, between the "diamonds" on the NE slope.
- Proposed category of difficulty: 2B.
- Route characteristics:
- height difference — 500 m.
- route length — 1100 m.
- average steepness — 40°.
- Pitons hammered: rock — 4 pcs.