Tfan Glavny via NW slope and NE ridge. Singin D.G. Eastern Caucasus, November 2, 1810

PASSPORT

1. Character of the route — combined
2. Eastern Caucasus, Makhmudchai River valley
3. Tfan Glavny via North-Western slope and North-Eastern ridge
4. Claimed 2A cat. dif. — first ascent
5. Elevation gain — 690 m, length — 1540 m Length of sections:
   • 2 cat. dif. — 600 m
   • 3–4 cat. dif. — 15 m

Tfan Glavny via North-East wall Mamedov E.S. East Caucasus 2.11.15 11

Passport

1. Route type — ice and snow
2. East Caucasus, Makhmudchai river gorge
3. Tfan Glavny via North-Eastern wall
4. Claimed category — 3B ice and snow, first ascent
5. Height difference — 690 m, route length — 1230 m

East. Shakhdag, via South Couloir by Asadov Ya. A. East Caucasus 2.11.2018

Passport

1. Route type — combined
2. East Caucasus, Shahnabad and Kusarчай river gorges
3. Shakhdag East via South Couloir
4. Assumed 2A cat. diff. — first ascent
5. Elevation gain — 1125 m, distance — 2260 m Length of cat. diff. 2 sections — 600–700 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 35°
6. Moving time — 6 hours

Passport

1. Character of the route — rock
2. Eastern Caucasus, Shakhnabad and Kusarчай river gorge
3. Shahdag Eastern by the North-eastern slope
4. Assumed to be category 2B difficulty — first ascent
5. Elevation gain — 1025 m, length — 2270 m Length of category 2–3 difficulty sections — 140 m 3–4 category difficulty — 70 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 26°
6. Travel hours — 11 hours

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DESCRIPTION OF KAZEL'SKII VOLCANO TRAVERSE FROM EAST TO WEST, CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY.

1. General Description of the Summit and its Location

For a general description of the summit and its location, see the description of the ascent of Kozel'skii volcano via the Western Ridge, category 2A difficulty.

2. Approach to the Climbing Site

a/ Traveling by vehicle. Travel to the settlement Rodygino is described in the ascent route description of Kozel'skii volcano, category 2A difficulty, via the Western Ridge. From the settlement Rodygino, continue further along the dirt road (see map) through Kozel'skii stream. 12–15 km from Rodygino, turn left and continue along the road to the workers' houses near the quarry. Set up camp in the quarry area:

• There is plenty of firewood;
• Water is available until mid-July.

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Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type: rock
2. Ascent area, mountain range: Avachinskaya volcano group
3. Peak, its height, ascent route, route type: Kozelsky peak, 2170 m, left buttress of the western wall, combined
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 3B
5. Route characteristics:
   • elevation gain: 1070 m
   • including the crux: 320 m
   • route length: 1730 m

Via the South­east slope, 1B cat. dif. A. Yatskovsky 1959

Combined Due to the route's considerable length, it's necessary to start from the Avachinsky refuge no later than 4 am. The approach to the southeast slope goes along the road and further along the stream bed, which flows from its snowfields in a wide couloir with three steep snow pitches. When ascending, it's better to keep to the left side. Having overcome the last pitch, head towards the upper part of the left ridge, where there is an exit to the ridge through a small couloir along the rocks. Then follow the ridge to the "gates," and enter through a steep (40°) ice-snow couloir, 150 m long. It's better to pass the "gates" along the left or right edge, depending on the condition of the section, using a rope handrail. Then exit to the pre-summit shoulder and follow it to the pre-summit rocks. Further, traverse a wide couloir under the rocks, heading east. After completing the traverse, ascend a steep pitch to the summit. The ascent time is 10-11 hours. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route. In summer, the upper part of the ascent couloir is prone to rockfall.

• IO - 28

5. ASCENT TO KORYAKSKAYA SOPKA FROM THE SIDE OF ELIZOVSKAYA SUHOY RECHKI RIVER ALONG THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE — cat. dif. 2A (Figure 5) From Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky to overnight stay in the Elizovskaya Suhoy Rechki river valley to the volcanological station (see description of the ascent to Avachinsky volcano — cat. dif. 1B). From the volcanological station, with orientation to the large gendarme "Verblud" (gendarme with two peaks), exit to the southeast ridge departing from the pre-peak of Koryakskaya Sopka. Landmark — to the left, along the path, from the ridge a wide steep couloir, dangerous for passage due to rockfall and avalanches. Along the southeast ridge exit to the pre-summit group of rocks. The ridge is heavily destroyed, does not present technical difficulty. Time to cross the ridge from the volcanological station to the pre-peak is 7–8 hours. The ridge ends with a series of gendarmes, which are bypassed on the right along the path (alternate belay). From the pre-summit ridge, traverse the large gendarme to the right along the path onto a snow-ice slope with a steepness of 45–50° and then to the left to a group of rocks, exit to the right side of the upper, narrowest part of the wide snow-ice couloir. Traverse of the couloir:

• steepness 45–50°

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Vlk. Os­t­ry Tol­ba­chik. 3682 m through Plos­kiy from the north, 2B cat. dif., (A. Be­re­zin, 1965)

From the base camp, located in the valley of the Stu­de­na­ya river, the approach to the beginning of the ridge of Plos­kiy Tol­ba­chik along alpine meadows takes 2 hours. At the foot of the ridge begins a large and medium scree, along them along the glacier - the exit to the beginning of the ascent (see photo). The ridge is a wide lava flow, covered with firn and ice, passed simultaneously in rope teams. Before reaching the summit of Plos­kiy Tol­ba­chik volcano, the slope steepness increases to 35°, and there are many open crevasses (Bergschrunds); all crevasses are overcome by snow bridges. The summit of Plos­kiy Tol­ba­chik is a snow-firn plateau three kilometers long, with a huge crater in the western part, 1800 m by 1500 m in diameter. Along the plateau in the western direction - the exit to the edge of the crater. The ascent time for this section of Plos­kiy Tol­ba­chik volcano is 5-6 hours. Crossing the plateau in the direction of the snowy ridge, one and a half kilometers long, with a steepness of 35-40°, leads to the summit of Os­t­ry Tol­ba­chik. Passing the ridge is done simultaneously in rope teams. The ascent from Plos­kiy Tol­ba­chik to the summit of Os­t­ry Tol­ba­chik takes 1.5-2 hours. The summit is a snow dome, from which icefalls descend to the north and south. The total ascent time is 8-9 hours. Descent from the summit:

• along the ascent route;
• it is possible to descend directly from the summit along the 2B route - the northern slope.