68. Maly Kogutai via Western Ridge (Category 1B route) From the “Baksan” alpine camp (group 4 — 20 people), head up the road in the Baksan valley. Before reaching the “Itkol” hotel, turn left and cross the Baksan River on a bridge to reach the narzan springs. From the springs, turn left and cross the Kogutaika River. From there, turn right and ascend a steep trail through the forest along the left bank of the Kogutaika. Above the forest, the trail continues through meadows; then it crosses a stream and ascends along its right bank to a meadow with a large rock split into two parts, mentioned in route 66. Set up a bivouac on the meadow. The journey from the “Baksan” alpine camp takes 2.5–3 hours. The path from the meadow (without backpacks) to the saddle on the Northern ridge of Bolshoy Kogutai is described in route 60. From the initial bivouac on the large meadow, it takes 3 hours. From the saddle:

• descend via scree and a snowy slope to the Bolshoy Kogutai glacier;
• traverse the glacier to the col on the Western ridge of Maly Kogutai peak, which is an extension of the Northeast ridge of Donguzorun peak;
• cross a snow bridge over a bergschrund;
• ascend a short, steep snowy slope to the col on the Western ridge of Maly Kogutai peak. From the saddle, it takes 2–2.5 hours. From the col:
• turn left;

Description

The description is compiled based on materials from the training part of Ullutau alplager. Route description: from the "Ullutau" alpine base (group 4 - 20 people) cross the Adyrsu river by the bridge, turn right and descend along the trail to reach the Koyavgan stream. Cross it and follow the trail on the right bank of the stream (there is a waterfall on the left) steeply upwards, then, having passed the green areas, approach the right-bank moraine. Along the moraine, bypassing the glacier tongue and its rugged part from the right, reach the upper plateau of the glacier and follow the right side of it, and then ascend snowy scree (avalanches, rockfall from the slopes of Koyavgan peak) to the Southern (right) saddle of Koyavgan pass. From the "Ullutau" alpine base, it takes 4-4.5 hours. On the pass, turn slightly to the right and reach the rocks of the Southern ridge of Koyavgan peak. From here, follow the poorly defined, wide, steep, and heavily destroyed ("live") Southern ridge, bypassing small gendarmes on the right, to approach the Big Gendarme. Bypass it on the left and then, on the left side of the heavily destroyed, steep Southern ridge (rockfall), ascend to the summit of Koyavgan (3877 m). From the pass, it takes 1.5 hours

• Descent follows the ascent route
• The route is dangerous due to rockfall!

10. Koyavgan via the East Ridge (combined route, by A. Baturova, category III complexity, fig. 1, 2).

From the “Dzhailyk” alpine camp (a group of 4 people) descend right down the road on the right side of the Adyrsu gorge. Cross the Adyrsu River via the bridge and approach the Jalovchat stream, then turn left off the road and ascend via the left bank of the stream to the left lateral moraine of the Jalovchat tributary valley, to the right of the East Ridge of Koyavgan peak. Along the moraine on the left bank of the Jalovchat stream, bypassing rock wall outcrops on the right, reach the tongue of the Jalovchat Glacier. From the “Dzhailyk” alpine camp, it takes 2–3 hours. From the glacier tongue, turn left and ascend a steep scree slope with short ice and snow sections to approach the left side of the lower rock belt on the right side of the East Ridge of Koyavgan peak. To the left of the rock belt, from the col of the East Ridge with a sharp gendarme in the center, descends:

• a steep Central ice-and-snow couloir,
• with a diamond-shaped rock outcrop in its middle section. From the scree slope, to the right of the Central couloir, ascend 30 m leftward along an ice-and-snow slope alongside the rock belt. Then directly upwards via moderately difficult rocks in a not clearly defined steep 30-meter couloir (pitons for protection). Continue ascending 40 m rightward via easy rocks to the top of the rock belt. From here, ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope on the East Ridge, to the right of the Central couloir, upwards and rightwards (possible rockfall) to the left side of a long narrow rock outcrop. Then ascend via easy, heavily fragmented rocks on the left side of the narrow outcrop to its top. From there, ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope (pitons for protection) to approach the right side of the rock ascent on the East Ridge. Via heavily fragmented, easy rocks on the right side of the ascent:
• ascend 30 m straight up,

The description is compiled based on materials from the training part of Ulutau a/l.

Description of the Approach to the Route

From the AGЛК "Jailyk", cross the bridge over the Adyr-Su river downstream. Behind the bridge, to the left near the source, a trail begins, going through the forest up the slope in the direction of the Jalovchat lake. Climbing along the trail:

• Cross to the left (green) moraine, leading to the N. counterfort of the E. ridge in Koy-Avgan.
• Continue ascent along the moraine.
• The N. counterfort of the E. ridge is dissected by a large couloir in its lower part.
• Ascend along the green moraine until the upper part of the counterfort dissected by the couloir starts to overhang on the left.
• Here, turn left and ascend up the slope to the rocks of the counterfort, leaving the couloir to the right.
• The start of the route is in the middle (between two rocky spurs) of the lower part of the bastion, which is crowned with a rocky tooth and connected by a narrow ridge to the main part of the counterfort.

Koy Avgan Bashi

in the center of the North slope, category 3B, first ascent AGLK "Dzhailyk" Virchenko Yu.P. — CMS Skornyakov A.N. — CMS Senior coach — Popov V.P.

Route Description

The route goes along the snow-ice slope, lying between rocky outcrops straight up to the snow pre-summit. Then from the pre-summit along the ridge in the southern direction to the summit Koy-Avgan. The beginning of the route is near the right side of the bergschrund crossing the base of the North slope. After overcoming the bergschrund, move straight up the snow-ice slope towards the saddle between two rocky outcrops. Along the left side of the lower rocky outcrop. The average steepness is 30°. The length of this section is 800 m. From the saddle between the outcrops, move straight up along the right side of the upper rocky outcrop towards the pre-summit. In this area, the slope is usually pure ice with a steepness of 40°–45°. The length of this section is 400 m. Belay through ice screws.

331. Nenskra via North Face (combined route, A. Snesareva, cat. 4A, fig. 32, 44). From the initial bivouac on the snow plateau of the Nenskra Glacier under the North Face of Nenskra peak, ascend via an avalanche-prone couloir, then via easy and moderately difficult rocks alternating with snowy slopes and small walls (loose rocks) to the Upper Rock Belt. From there, ascend steep, heavily broken rocks of above-average difficulty to the Upper Rock Island. Then, via a steep ice-snow slope with rock outcrops, reach the col on the ridge between the Southwest and Northeast peaks of Nenskra. From the glacier plateau, 7-8 hours. From the col, turn right and ascend simple rocks of the ridge spur to the summit of Nenskra Southwest. Descend to the col via the ascent route. From the col, via monolithic simple and moderately difficult rocks of the ascent, then along the long Western ridge, ascend to the summit of Nenskra Northeast. From the Northeast summit, descend via heavily broken simple and moderately difficult rocks of the Northeast ridge to the col under the Big Gendarme. Overcome the Gendarme head-on via simple rocks of the ridge, then via rappelling and sport descent to the saddle under the snowy shoulder. From the saddle, via a simple snow-covered rocky ridge, exit onto the snowy shoulder. From the shoulder, via a gentle snow-covered rocky ridge, descend to the snow plateau under the nameless Main Caucasian Ridge pass. From the Southwest peak, 5-7 hours.

Nerusskaya

NORTH — EAST SOUTH — WEST Fig. 44. Nerussky spur

в. Советский воин — в. Кезген — в. Кубасанты! img-0.jpeg Taken on July 2, 1986 at 6:00 PM from the southern spur of в. Кубасанты. Camera "Salut-C", lens "Mir-26B", F=45 mm. ROUTE SCHEME IN LIMB VOLA U I A A:

• Кубасанты
• Советский воин
• 2Б кат. сл., traverse

View of the Ирикчат gorge from в. Череткара

293 p. No 15 cm

Ascent Log

165. Kurmychi via the South-East Ridge (Category 1B). The path from the Adylsu Alpine Camp to the initial bivouac under the southern slopes of Pik Aviatsii is described in Route 163. From there, ascend on the right side of the Kurmychi Glacier (closed crevasses!), which gradually becomes steeper, to the saddle on the ridge between the Uzlovaya peak on the left and Kurmychi on the right. From the glacier, ascend a snowy-icy slope with a bergschrund at the lower part (belay required!) to reach the saddle. From the saddle, ascend to the right and upwards along the broad snowy south-eastern ridge of Kurmychi, then along simple, partially moderately difficult broken rocks to reach the summit of Kurmychi. The journey from the moraine under Pik Aviatsii takes 3–4 hours. Descend via the ascent route or along the north-west ridge. The total duration of the route is 2 days.