Ha­ka 3-0

307. Dolra East via East Ridge (combined route, cat. 2B diff., fig. 32, 42). From the Southern “Becho” Shelter, go up the Dolra River. Cross the river and ascend steep grassy, and higher up scree (loose rocks) slopes to a small plateau at the foot of the ascent to the East Ridge of Dolra peak. Set up the initial bivouac at the plateau. From the Southern “Becho” Shelter 3–4 hours. The exit to the East Ridge is also possible from the Dolra Glacier (point 295). From the plateau, go up a snow-covered couloir on the left side to reach the East Ridge. Further, ascend 600–700 m up along the wide, heavily jagged and ruined easy rocky East Ridge with numerous gendarmes that are either overcome head-on or bypassed, to a small plateau below the Big Gendarme, which is ascended head-on via a 20-meter wall (cam). Further, along the heavily ruined, and in places snow-covered (cornices) East Ridge, ascend to the summit of Dolra East. From the initial bivouac: 5–7 hours. Fig. 42.

305. Dolra Vostochnaya via North Ridge (combined route, R. Khazardzhe, 4A cat. diff., fig. 32, 42). From the initial bivouac on the Dolra glacier moraine (approx. 3000 m), cross the glacier (closed crevasses) and approach the left side of the base of the North Ridge of Dolra Vostochnaya peak. From the glacier, traverse the bergschrund and ascend the snowy slope to the rocks on the left side of the broad base of the North Ridge. From here, ascend 50–60 m up (loose rocks) moderate difficulty rocks of the ridge crest, then 140–160 m up-right on steep rocks and slabs of above-moderate difficulty. Then traverse left into a couloir, then 250–300 m up moderate difficulty rocks of the ridge crest on the left side of the North Ridge, with short above-moderate difficulty walls and corners, until reaching a 15–20-meter wall on the North Ridge. Overcome the wall directly via above-moderate difficulty rocks. Then ascend 400–450 m up steep rocks of the North Ridge with short difficult walls. Traverse the 100–120-meter snowy (cornices) North Ridge to reach the East Ridge. Here, turn right and ascend the straightforward East Ridge to the summit of Dolra Vostochnaya. From the glacier, 10–12 hours. Fig. 42.

The Dolra-Khevai ridge is located in the Elbrus group of peaks of the Caucasus in Upper Svaneti and forms part of the watershed between the valleys of the Angur, Dolra, and Nakra rivers. It stretches almost parallel to the Main Ridge south of the Dolguz-Orun peak and lies isolated on a spur between the Dolra and Kvich glaciers. The Dolra-Khevai ridge can be divided into the following three parts:

• the Dolra massif with the Eastern and Western - Main peaks (3860 m)
• the Trident massif with the Eastern - Pik Chetyrekh, Central, and Western peaks
• the Khevai massif with the Eastern and Western peaks. In the summer sports season of 1964, a team of climbers from the Odessa gatherings, consisting of:

1. LIVSHITS Viktor Yakovlevich - team leader, Master of Sports with experience of climbing 15 peaks of the 5th category of difficulty
2. BANDUROVSKY Igor Alexandrovich - participant, Master of Sports, with experience of climbing 15 peaks of the 5th category of difficulty
3. SHATILOV Vadim Mikhailovich - participant, 1st sports category, with experience of climbing 5 peaks of the 5th category of difficulty

313. Dolra — Khevay (combined route, P. Kovaleva, 4A cat. sl., Fig. 32, 42). From the summit Dolra East (m. 307) along simple destroyed rocks of the ridge with three snow-ice bridges (cornices) ascend to the summit Dolra Main. From Main down steep destroyed rocks of the Western ridge with two rappels descent to the saddle. From the saddle along simple destroyed rocks of the Eastern ridge ascend to the summit Dolra West. From the West down steep rocks of the Western ridge to the bridge. Bypass a small gendarme of the bridge on slabs to the left. Then along rocks of medium difficulty and snowy slopes on the left side of the ridge bypass on the right V and IV gendarmes of the "pyala" and behind them exit to the bridge. From the bridge along simple rocks of the ridge pass:

• III and II gendarmes of the "pyala"
• rappel under I gendarme Bypass the gendarme by traversing 25 m along steep rocks above medium difficulty to the right (rotten rocks) with exit to the site of the bridge under the ascent of the Eastern ridge of the summit Khevay First East.

From the village of Mazeri, follow the forest road to the Dolra River; go up to the bridge on the right bank, and beyond it - on the left bank of the river. After the Dolra River turns left, above the confluence of the Ushba River to it from the right, cross the Dolra River by the bridge and exit to the summer shelter Becho on its right bank. From the shelter:

• upstream on the right bank,
• then along steep grassy slopes,
• and higher - on scree,
• further - on a large moraine. From the moraine:
• initially upwards,
• then traverse along heavily destroyed rocks of the right slope of the gorge (loose stones),
• ascend to the right side of the tail of the Dolra glacier,

62. Donguzorun Vostochny via North-East Wall (Yu. Kaunov's Route, Cat. 4B, Fig. 8, 14). The path from the "Baksan" Alpine Camp (group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac on the right-bank moraine platforms of the Donguzorun Vostochny Glacier is described in Route 61. From the moraine (departure at 2–3 am), cross the Donguzorun Vostochny Glacier and reach the base of the North-East wall of Donguzorun Vostochny peak. Ascend 10 m up steep, moderately difficult rocks to a small ridge on the right side of the wall, slightly left of the avalanche debris. Continue up moderately difficult rocks on a poorly defined ridge, parallel to the avalanche chute, to a platform (cairn). From the platform, ascend directly up moderately difficult rocks, then up a 60-meter snowy slope to the left, towards a rocky outcrop of the wall. Overcome the wall head-on via rocks more difficult than average (pitons for protection!) and reach a poorly defined internal corner. Ascend the corner, then its right side, directly up (pitons for protection!). Continue up the wall to an icy chute. Ascend the chute or the rocks on its right, and then left side, 50–60 m up (pitons for protection!). Exit the chute to the right onto rocky outcrops and ascend to the upper part of the chute. From here, traverse 50 meters to the left through the icy chute (icefall, avalanches!) under the black wall (most challenging section of the route). Ascend 20–25 m directly up difficult rocks of the wall (pitons for protection!), then traverse 15 m to the left, and ascend an 8-meter chimney and 30 meters of moderately difficult rocks to a rocky tower on the wall (cairn). From the tower, ascend 150–200 m up an icy-snowy slope (crampons), then an 80-meter snowy ridge, and a 100–120-meter slope to the ridge of the main massif. Turn right and ascend the broad snowy ridge to the summit of Donguzorun Vostochny peak. 12–14 hours from the initial bivouac.

From the Baksan valley along the trail leading to the Don-Guz-Shrun pass. From the upper lake, we turn left to the ridge lowering and exit to the bottom pass Don-Guz-Shrun along the scree and gully. Descent 10–15 m down the broken rocks to the glacier and further up the glacier to the right on the southwest ridge of Nakra-Tau. Here, on the flat part of the ridge, is an overnight stay. The path from the Baksan valley to the overnight stay takes 7–8 hours. From the overnight stay site, we descend down the scree into the glacial circus, separating the northwest and west ridges of Nakra-Tau. Descending down, we cross the circus in the direction of the well-defined snow col of the western ridge. Up the steep snowy slope (4–5 ropes), we ascend to the col and exit to the "naran" - the exit from the "Karmen" to the flat snow plateau. Along the snow plateau, we move east to the South Don-Guz-Ortov plateau. From the plateau, we ascend up the gentle snow slope in the direction of the pass between the peaks Don-Guz-Shrun and Nakra-Tau. Having reached the gentle part of the slope, we turn right to the snow ridge, along which we ascend in the direction of a small zenith выступ in the ridge leading to the Don-Guz-Shrun peak. Along the skeleton of the bergschrund and further up the snow-ice slope, leaving the rocky outcrops to the left, we exit to the ridge. Along the simple rocks and snowpatch of the ridge, we ascend to the Main summit of Don-Guz-Shrun. Descent is via the ascent route. The path from overnight stay to overnight stay takes about 12 hours.

• The ascent can be made in any quantitative composition.
• In August, the exit and descent to the "naran" are challenging; on the ground, you need to have tension ropes, three ice hooks, and four clamp devices.

4

The Lesser Donguz-Orun is located in the smooth Zakavkazsky ridge between Lecho to the east and Donguz-Orun to the west. The height of the peak is 1468 m. To the northwest lies the middle peak of Donguz-Orun. From the middle peak of Donguz-Orun, a ridge branches off, which turns west and, through a saddle, forms a Makra-Tau pyramid (or May Donguz-Orun - 1440 meters). The western ridge, Nakra-Tau, steeply descends to the Donguz-Orun pass. This is the eastern ridge that runs from the Donguz-Orun peak along the Songi valley to the Becho pass. The third ridge branches off from the middle peak of Donguz-Orun in a northeasterly direction to the Kogu-Tau-Veti peak. The northern wall of the peak is trapped by snow firn and drop-offs, feeding the left branch of the Isegi glacier. The western slope of the peak drops steeply to the Donguz-Orun glacier. On the wall, two cross-shaped narrow glaciers are clearly visible. At the peak, there is a huge firn field that feeds the Nakra, Kapp, and Dakra glaciers.

Report

On the ascent to the summit Donguzorun Glavnaya via the southwest slope, category 2A, by the team of MAC "Freeline", September 30, 2024.

I. Ascent Report

4. Proposed difficulty category 2B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 500 m, average steepness 35°, section lengths: I — 300 m, II — 250 m, III — 300 m, IV — — m, V — — m, VI — — m. 6. Pitons hammered in: for belay, for creating I.T.O.: — rock: 0 — ice: 34 — bolt: 0