- Donguzorun Vostochny via North-East Wall (Yu. Kaunov's Route, Cat. 4B, Fig. 8, 14). The path from the "Baksan" Alpine Camp (group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac on the right-bank moraine platforms of the Donguzorun Vostochny Glacier is described in Route 61.
From the moraine (departure at 2–3 am), cross the Donguzorun Vostochny Glacier and reach the base of the North-East wall of Donguzorun Vostochny peak. Ascend 10 m up steep, moderately difficult rocks to a small ridge on the right side of the wall, slightly left of the avalanche debris. Continue up moderately difficult rocks on a poorly defined ridge, parallel to the avalanche chute, to a platform (cairn).
From the platform, ascend directly up moderately difficult rocks, then up a 60-meter snowy slope to the left, towards a rocky outcrop of the wall. Overcome the wall head-on via rocks more difficult than average (pitons for protection!) and reach a poorly defined internal corner. Ascend the corner, then its right side, directly up (pitons for protection!). Continue up the wall to an icy chute. Ascend the chute or the rocks on its right, and then left side, 50–60 m up (pitons for protection!). Exit the chute to the right onto rocky outcrops and ascend to the upper part of the chute.
From here, traverse 50 meters to the left through the icy chute (icefall, avalanches!) under the black wall (most challenging section of the route). Ascend 20–25 m directly up difficult rocks of the wall (pitons for protection!), then traverse 15 m to the left, and ascend an 8-meter chimney and 30 meters of moderately difficult rocks to a rocky tower on the wall (cairn).
From the tower, ascend 150–200 m up an icy-snowy slope (crampons), then an 80-meter snowy ridge, and a 100–120-meter slope to the ridge of the main massif. Turn right and ascend the broad snowy ridge to the summit of Donguzorun Vostochny peak. 12–14 hours from the initial bivouac.
The descent via the East Ridge is described in Route 63. Duration: 3 days. Special equipment for 4 people: 2×40 m dynamic ropes, 2 m of accessory cord, 10–12 rock pitons, 4–5 ice screws, 2 rock hammers, 10–12 carabiners, 4 pairs of crampons, 4 headlamps, 1 tent. Possible bivouac sites: on all platforms and snowy slopes of the wall, on the main ridge of the massif, and on the summit.
Warnings
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