Climbing Passport

1. High-altitude technical climb
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Lyaylyak valley
3. Ak-Su (5217 m) via the North Face, L. Troshchinenko route.
4. 6A category of difficulty
5. Height difference 1590 m, length 2490 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty – 885 m, length of sections with 6th category of difficulty – 435 m, average steepness of the route – 60°, average steepness of the main part of the route – 74°.

Ascent Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Pamir-Alay, Laylyak valley.
3. Peak AkSu S., via the North face.
4. 6A
5. Elevation gain 1400 meters, length 1685 meters, length of sections with 5th cat. diff. – 850 meters, length of sections with 6th cat. diff. – 470 meters, average route slope – 60°, average slope of the main part of the route – 74°.
6. Pitons driven: | | rock pitons | chocks | ice pitons | bolts | |:---|:---|:---|:---|:---|

PASSPORT

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Laiyak gorge area
3. Peak Ak-su via N wall
4. Category 6B (presumably 4th ascent)
5. Height difference: 1447 m, length: 2149 m, including bastion: 1040 m and 1297 m respectively. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty: 539 m. 6th category difficulty: 389 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 70°, bastion is 79°.

14 5.4.2.5. All-Union Championship of the Trade Unions DFSO on Alpinism 1988 Class of technical ascents

Report

Report on the ascent of Peak Ak-su North 5217 m via the north wall by the team of instructors of AUSB “Alay” Team Leader
Team Coach

1. Technical category
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Aksu valley
3. Aksu peak (C)
4. Category of difficulty — 6A, proposed 6B
5. Elevation gain — 1460 m, length — 2200 m, including 1430 m on the bastion.
6. Average steepness of the bastion — 76°
   Average steepness of the route — 68°
7. Pitons driven:

   rock	nuts	bolt	reused bolt	skyhook holes	ice

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area: Pamiro-Alai, Turkestan Ridge, Lyaylyak gorge.
3. Peak, route: p. Aksu (N) via N wall (L. Troshchinenko route).
4. Category of difficulty — 6A
5. Height difference: — 1640 m — of which the wall part proper — 1100 m — total route length — 2149 m — length of the wall part — 1384 m

ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range
3. Peak — AkSu North (5217 m) via the North face
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 6 (2nd ascent)
5. Height difference — 1617 m
   • of which:
     • wall section — 750 m
     • Length — 2195 m

Ascent Passport

1. Region of ascent: PAMIR-ALAI, Turkestan Ridge, Laylyak gorge area
2. Name of the peak: Aksu North (5217)
3. Name of the route: "To the wall" (L. Troshchinenko)
4. Category: 6A
5. Nature of the route: combined
6. Height difference: 1517 m Route length: 1895 m Length of sections:

• category V — 810 m

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, AkSu valley.
3. Peak AkSu (C), 5217 m, via the direttissima of the northern wall bastion.
4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain – 1450 m, length – 1945 m, including 1030 m and 1140 m for the bastion respectively. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty – 350 m, 6th category – 905 m, including 200 m and 850 m on the bastion respectively. Average steepness of the main part of the route – the bastion – 76°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock, chocks, bolts, ice | 125 | 250 | 87 | 10 |