ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range
3. Peak — AkSu North (5217 m) via the North face
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 6 (2nd ascent)
5. Height difference — 1617 m
   • of which:
     • wall section — 750 m
     • Length — 2195 m
     • Length of sections of 5–6 cat. diff. — 1395 m
     • of which 6 cat. diff. — 575 m (3670–3720, 3800–3920, 3955–4160, 4310–4350, 4840–4900, 4990–5025)
   • Height difference:
     • wall section — 73° (750 m), including 540 m — 80°
     • Edge — 57° (305 m)
     • West ridge — 50° (400 m)
6. Pitons hammered in:

   rock	chocks	ice	bolt
   146	96	18	6+7*
   11	14	6	1+17*

7. Team's travel hours — 63.5 (6 days to ascend)
8. Overnights:
   1. lying in a tent, on snow
   2. sitting and in hammocks, separate
   3. lying in a tent, on snow
   4. sitting in a tent
   5. lying in a tent, on snow
9. Team LOS DSO "Burevestnik"-2
10. Leader — Alexey V. Gusyaev — MS
    • Participants:
      • Vyacheslav I. Glushko — MS
      • Yuri D. Bushmanov — CMS
      • Vadim V. Zakharov — CMS
      • Oleg S. Klonin — CMS
11. Team coach — MS USSR Vyacheslav I. Glushko
12. Departure to the route — July 1, 1986
    • Summit reached — July 6, 1986
    • Return — July 7, 1986

Distance — 1.5 km Height taken — 4000 m Shot number — 2

Troschinenko's route (1982) to the summit of AkSu North via the North face 6B cat. diff., completed by the team LOS DSO "Burevestnik"-2 from July 1 to 7, 1986 (2nd ascent).