classic

Video guide to climbing Khan-Tengri via the classic 5A route by experienced alpinist Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide to the classic route to Khan-Tengri (5A) by Dima Pavlenko.

Description of the ascent route to Khan Tengri peak via the western ridge from the Semenovsky glacier, category 5A complexity.

Ascent Passport Class of high-altitude technical ascents. Region 7.9, Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge. Khan-Tengri peak via the W ridge from Semenovsky glacier (variant of M. Pogrebetsky's route-31 via the SW slope). 5A category of route complexity, combined. Height difference 1400 m, average steepness of the ridge 40°, route length 3000 m. Sections of 1st category of difficulty – 1100 m, 2nd category – 350 m, 3rd category – 1300 m, 4th category – 200 m, 5th category – 50 m. Used previously fixed ropes – 700 m, total 1200 m of ropes on the route from 6100 m to 6850 m. Climbing hours — 9, days — 2. Overnight stay in a snow cave under the col between Chapayev peak and Khan-Tengri peak, 5850 m. Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich — CMS, Shanavazov Shanavaz Eldarovich — CMS

Ascent of Khan Tengri peak via the South-West slope, category 5B, made by a team from Severodvinsk in 1998.

Ascent Passport Ascent category: high-altitude and technical. Ascent region: Central Tian Shan, South Inylchek. Ascent route: Khan-Tengri peak via the Southwest slope, 4. M. Pogrebetsky 1931. Category of difficulty: 5B Route characteristics: elevation gain: 2985 (by altimeter), ascent length: –9 km, descent length: –9.4 km, section lengths: 5th category of difficulty – 120 m,

Report on the first ascent of the west wall of Khan-Tengri peak (6,995 m) by the team from Odessa regional council of the "Avangard" sports society in 1982.

Consider the route via 40–3 saddle as an option of cat. 5B (record No. 10 p. 7 of the classification) USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIPS 1982 Category 5 TECHNICAL-ALTITUDE ASCENTS group N/N not to be included in the table Order No. 525 dated 22.02.83 p. 26. 25.01.83 Report on the ascent to Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) via the west face

Description of the team’s ascent to Khan-Tengri Peak via the Pogrebetsky route (southwestern slope) with a complexity category of 5B.

Passport High-altitude class Central Tian-Shan, South Inylchek Glacier Peak Khan-Tengri via the southwest slope (Pogrebetsky route) Category 5B difficulty Elevation gain — 1095 m, length — 1700 m (main part of the route). Total elevation gain — 2595 m. Length of category 5 sections — 590 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 45°, category 5 sections — 55°–60° (6700–6850 m). Pitons used: Rock — 52, bolt — 0, chocks — 16, ice — 5. Team's travel hours: 18, days — 3.

Report on the ascent of Khan-Tengri via the Northwest Ridge in 2000, category of difficulty 5A, combined route, height difference 2800 m.

Ascent Passport Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Tengri Tag ridge, South Inylchek glacier, number according to the 1999 classification table —. Peak name: Khan Tengri (6995 m), route name: via NW edge from Chapayev peak shoulder (I. Grebenshchikov). Complexity category: 5A category. Route type — combined Route elevation gain: 2800 m (by altimeter); route length — 8260 m; sections of 5th category — 1500 m; 6th category —.

The first winter ascent of Khan-Tengri peak via the South-West slope, made by a team of International Master of Sports grade climbers led by V. Suviga in February 1992.

Passport Class — winter ascents Central Tien Shan, Tengri Tag ridge Peak Khan-Tengri via the southwest slope Proposed 6A first ascent in winter conditions Elevation gain: 2800 m (from the confluence of the Semenovsky and South Inylchek glaciers) Average steepness of the main part of the route — 45° (from the saddle between peaks Chapayev and Khan-Tengri to the summit of Khan-Tengri 5800–6995 m) Pitons used: rock — 6 pcs., ice — 4 pcs. Previously used pitons not removed — 12 pcs. Team's total climbing hours: 28 hours and 4 days

Ascent description for Khan Tengri Peak via the Southwest Ridge, category 5A, a combined route.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — high-altitude technical Region — Tian-Shan, Tengri Tag ridge, route № 7.9.8 Peak — Khan-Tengri, via the Southwest ridge Category of difficulty — 5A Route type — combined Route elevation gain — 2800 m. Route length — 5290 m. Length of sections with category difficulty — 1040 m. Average slope:

Ascent description to the summit of Khan-Tengri via the South-West slope, category 5B difficulty level in 1990.

I. Altitude class Tian Shan, Tengri Tagh ridge Khan Tengri peak via the Southwest slope Route difficulty category — 5B Elevation gain: 2695 m, length 3830 m Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 340 m. Average steepness of the route — 42°. Pitons driven: rock 9+9, chocks 16, ice screws 8+4 use of previously driven pitons Team's travel time: 13.5 hours, days — 2

Ascent of Khan-Tengri via the West Couloir, 5B category of difficulty, first ascent by Bars alpine club team in 1997.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — altitude-technical Ascent area — Central Tien Shan Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) — via the western couloir, first ascent Estimated complexity category — 5B Height difference — 2800 m of which: wall — 1200 m Length — about 6000 m, including rock part — about 1800 m Length of sections with 5–6 complexity category — 125 m