Ascent Passport

1. East Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy ridge, Zun Khandagay gorge, section 6.1. 69
2. The Third Needle of Khandagay peak, 2650 m, via the South Ridge.
3. Proposed for category complexity, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Height difference — 230 m, length — 280 m, average steepness — 55°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock and wired — 24.
7. Team's moving hours — 5 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group: Afanasiev A.E. CMS

395

0-10

34

Geographic and Climbing Characteristics of the Area

The Zuun-Khandagai valley is located 15 km from the Arshan resort village. There is a good trail almost halfway through the valley. The peaks in this area have been explored by climbers for a long time, and the Classification table currently includes routes to:

• Mt. SOAN - 4B and 3B
• Mt. Dinosaur - 4A
• Khandagai Needles - 4B The first ascent to the left peak of Khandagai Needles is related to ridge routes. This route is distinguished by its logic and complexity, as it runs along the main watershed ridge of the Tunkin Mountains, characterized by sharp alpine forms (narrow jagged ridges, abundant snow, strong winds, etc.). Winter climbing conditions persist until mid-May. Protocol 4209 dated February 15, 1977.

Zun via Ts.ktf 10-3 from 2834 m. Kirillov S.A. Vostochny Sayany 6.1. first ascent

PASSPORT

1. Rock class
2. Vostochny Sayany, Zun-Khandagai gorge.
3. To Zun via Ts.ktf. 10-3 peak. (2834 m)
4. Proposed 4A category of complexity, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 400 m, length — 500 m. Length of sections with 5th category of complexity — 60 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 53°.
6. Pitons left on the route — 0
7. Team's walking hours: 11 hours and days — 1.

Report on the First Ascent of

J. V. Zuun

via the South Face Buttress, Category 3B difficulty Petrashko G. A. Pryanikov S. I. www.alpfederation.ru

Irkutsk, 2011

Climbing Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy ridge, Zuun-Khandagai river gorge. Section number according to the classification table: 6.1.
2. Domashnaya peak 2350 m (peak coordinates: 51°55′32.55″ N 102°13′4.44″ E), via the East Face
3. Route difficulty category: proposed 5A category, first ascent
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Route elevation gain: 650 m Route length: 1200 m Length of sections:

2552 (p)

Brief geographic overview of the area, sporting characteristics

The Dомашняя peak is located in the south-eastern spur of the Tunkinsky ridge of the Eastern Sayan, which is a watershed between the Zuun-Khandagai and Baruun-Khandagai gorges. Its height is 2352 m above sea level. In the same spur, there are two unnamed peaks, 2693 m and 2678 m, and the Dinosaur peak, 2820 m, for which there are classified routes 2B and 4A cat. sl. The Tunkinsky Goltsy are the highest part of the Eastern Sayan. The highest point is 3226 m, located in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Khairym stream. The approach to the base camp starts from the Lesnichikha clearing, located 10 km from the Arshan resort, through the Zuun-Khandagai river gorge. The base camp is located:

• on the left orographic bank of the Zuun-Khandagai river
• 6 hours walk from the clearing
• opposite the Dомашняя peak
• at the forest boundary The forest boundary here is at an altitude of 1700 m above sea level.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — ROCK.
2. Ascent area — EASTERN SAYAN, TUNKINSKIE GOLTSY ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. DINOSAUR, 2716 m, SOUTH BUTTRESS OF THE EASTERN RIDGE.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B.
5. Height difference — 416 m.
6. Average steepness of the buttress — 55°.
7. Length of sections — 4th diff. cat. – 28 m, 5th diff. cat. – 150 m.
8. Pitons driven — rock: 42, ice: for ITO.
9. Number of travel hours — 11 h.

Passport

I. Class of ascent — rock. 2. Region of ascent, ridge — Tunkinskie Goltsy, Zuun-Khandagai and Baruun-Khandagai gorges. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Dinosaur, 2820 m, via the northwestern ridge with ascent along the left western counterfort. 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4A category. 5. Characteristics of the route: height difference — 450 m; average steepness — 38°; length of sections: 2 — 400 m, 3 — 220 m, 4 — 270 m.