Report

On the first ascent

To the summit: Domashnyaya (2352 m) Via the route: Eastern wall of the Southern ridge Complexity category: 5A cat. sl. (proposed) By the team of Irkutsk region: Klepikov A.A., Ivanovsky A.V., Kazantseva E.V. The ascent was made on February 5, 2024.

I. Ascent Passport

ALPINISM FEDERATION OF THE REPUBLIC OF BURYATIA

Report on the First Ascent

Peak Domashnyaya (2350 m). Via the South-Eastern Ridge. Route 1B cat. diff. (proposed). Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy, Zun-Khandagai valley 6.1.2. 2023

Climbing Passport

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

В. 2768

Schematic map of the ascent area

TABLE MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE TO V.2678 m.

Geographical location, sporting characteristics of the area

The Zun-Khandagai valley is located in the middle part of the main watershed ridge of the Tunkinskie Goltsy mountains in the Eastern Sayan. The alpine-type relief of the area with sharp peaks and heavily serrated ridges provides opportunities for classifying a number of sports routes in this valley. Routes are classified only on SOAN-3B, 4A, 4B. The absolute heights of the valley are close to 3000 m. The peak Shelekhov (2810) is located in the northwest corner of the upper valley, forming with its southern and southeastern ridges a small, cirque-like feature, which opens into a wide couloir leading to the northwest lake of the valley. The passage of routes is often complicated by significant snow cover, which falls early in autumn and melts mostly by the end of May or June. The approach with a load to the base camp at the forest boundary from the Tunkinskaya valley, along the road leading from the village of Tagarkhay, takes one and a half walking days.

Route description

From the base camp at the forest boundary - to the right (orographic) upper cirque. From the lake to the northwest, the entire route to the very summit is clearly visible (photo 1). Passing along the eastern shore of the lake, ascend to a gentle ridge that leads directly to the route. At the end of the gentle part of the ridge - rope up.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock
2. Ascent area — Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Belki ridge
3. Peak, its height — v. SOAN, 2952 m, ascent route — South wall
4. Assumed category of difficulty — 5B
5. Route characteristics:

• Height difference — 652 m
• Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 515 m
• Average steepness of main sections — 72°

14 a 3­¹­²

SOAN Peak (2952 m)

The route along the South wall (approx. 5A cat. diff.) - SOAN peak (Siberian Branch of the Academy of Sciences) is located in a lateral spur of the Tunkin Range of the Eastern Sayan Mountains between the Zuun-Khandagai and Talta rivers. The most studied and interesting mountaineering routes to SOAN peak start from the Zuun-Khandagai valley. The Sayan rivers are frozen from November to mid-May. Ice fields and icings remain until mid-July, and snow persists in some valleys until August. Numerous high-altitude lakes are completely ice-free by the second half of July, are deep, and lifeless. There is no glaciation in the Sayan region. The most favorable months for ascent are:

• June,
• July,
• first half of August.

Approach

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