Passport

1. Class of ascent
2. Region of ascent, ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route
4. Proposed category of difficulty
5. Route characteristics: height difference average steepness
6. Pitons hammered for belay
7. Number of travel hours
8. Overnights

13

EASTERN SAYANS IRKUTSK peak (2742 m) via the south ridge, cat. 3B difficulty (year-round)

GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION

The Irkutsk peak is situated in the main ridge of the Tunkinskiye Belki range in the Eastern Sayan Mountains. It is located at the head of the Pravaya Zun-Khandagai River gorge.

TRANSPORTATION AND APPROACH TO THE BASE CAMP

From Irkutsk city, take a bus or drive to Arshan resort — 218 km. From Arshan resort, head west along the main ridge through Tagarkhay village by car or on foot — 12 km. Continue on foot along the trail on the right side (as you go) of the Zun-Khandagai River gorge until the fork of the left and right Zun-Khandagai rivers — 9 km. The base camp is located at the fork. The tree line is at this elevation, and there is an abundance of firewood. Time breakdown:

• Irkutsk–Arshan — 7 hours by bus

2015

Brief Geographical Overview of the "Irkutsk" Peak Area

2742

The 2816 m "Irkutsk" peak is located in the eastern part of the Tunka Goltsy mountain range, Eastern Sayan. The range stretches from west to east for 150 km, approaches the southwestern tip of Lake Baikal, and serves as a watershed for the Irkut and Kitoi rivers, left tributaries of the Angara River. The vegetation is typically taiga, represented by:

• Cedar,
• Pine,
• Larch. The forest boundary is at an altitude of 1880–1900 m. The fauna is rich and diverse. The Tunka valley is known for its many mineral springs. The most famous of these is the Arshan spring, on which a resort of all-Union significance has been established. Administratively, the Tunka Goltsy range belongs to the Buryat ASSR.

Ascent Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy ridge, Zun Khandagai valley, section 6.1.70
2. Peak Irkutsk, 2742 m, via the South Counterfort.
3. Proposed category 2B, first ascent.
4. Route type — rocky.
5. Height difference 350 m, length 525 m, average slope 40°.
6. Pitons hammered: rocky and wired — 20.
7. Team's walking hours — 5 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group:

Geographic location, sporting characteristics, and history of the Zuun-Khandagai valley exploration

The Zuun-Khandagai valley is located in the middle part of the Tunka Alps in the Eastern Sayan. The peak Igly Khandagaya is situated on the watershed ridge of the Tunka Alps and closes the Zuun-Khandagai valley. Although the height of the peaks in the area does not exceed 3000 m, its development is significantly hindered by complex climatic conditions and alpine landforms. In 1969, the valley was explored by an expedition of the USSR Climbing Federation led by V. Abalakov. In the same summer, a group of climbers from Irkutsk led by V. Belousov made the first ascent of the southern wall of the peak SOAN, and the route was classified as 4B category in summer conditions. A route along the southeastern ridge to the same peak was also classified as 2B category. It is worth noting that winter conditions in the Eastern Sayan often last until the end of May, when prolonged snowstorms and frosts unexpectedly deter climbers. By the end of summer, the snow cover almost completely disappears. The area has more than ten peaks of interest to climbers, and only one peak, SOAN, currently has classified routes. The traverse of Igly Khandagaya is the second attempt to classify the peaks in this interesting and promising area.

Description of the traverse

April 27. Sections R0–R1, R1–R2.

Uaachny Pass

Ascent Record

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Eastern Sayan, Tunku Goltsy, Zuun-Khandagai Valley.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — (3) Akademik Korolev Peak, 2900 m, via the Southwest Ridge from Udachny Pass
4. Anticipated difficulty category — 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 495 m, average slope — 50°
6. Pitons used for belaying: rock — 19, ice — 1, bolted — — No manufactured pitons were used.
7. Number of climbing hours:

• from the base camp in Zuun-Khandagai Valley to Udachny Pass — 3 h