Central North Caucasus

23-year-old guide Temur Kurdiani made the first solo ascent of the mixed 5A/M5+ route to the 4,869-meter summit, tackling 80-degree ice and vertical granite in just 4 hours.

According to information from mountain.ru and planetmountain.com: 23-year-old guide and alpinist Temur Kurdiani completed a solo first ascent of a route. The line follows steep, mixed terrain, and the climber graded the difficulty at 5A/M5+. Starting at 4000 meters, the ascent climbs the wall to 4700, where it joins the classic route all the way to the summit at 4869 m. The climb took just 4 hours, despite encountering sections of 80-degree ice and vertical granite. ![](https://summitx.info/media/1/lweRCxxrjJ6xkntiaPFoHsQenFkIyRwP

Report on the ascent to the summit of Dashtsar via the 2A category difficulty route on the terraces of the West wall.

REPORT ON ASCENT TO DASHTSAR PEAK VIA THE TERRACES OF THE WEST WALL ROUTE, CATEGORY 2A COMPLEXITY. By the team of the Climbing Camps Management from June 2, 2024, to June 2, 2024. I. Ascent Passport | Item No. | 1. General Information | | | :----------------------------: | :---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | :-------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full Name, sports rank of the leader | Chikin Artem Borisovich, Candidate for Master of Sports | | 1.2 | Full Name, sports rank of participants | Gumashvili V.L., 3rd sports rank; Barsukova E.A., 3rd sports rank. | | 1.3 | Full Name of the coach | Yakovenko Alexander Nikolaevich, Master of Sports | | 1.4 | Organization | Climbing Camps Management | | 2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object | | |

Report on the first traverse ascent of Tbau Glavnaya — Tbau Severo-Zapadnaya 1Bz category of difficulty by the FATUM CAT team on February 14, 2024.

Report on the first traverse of Tbau Glavnaya – Tbau Severo-Zapadnaya, winter category 1B difficulty level, by the FATUM CAT team on February 14, 2024. I. Climbing Passport | № | 1. General Information | | | :-- | :-- | :-- | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Tolistikova E.Yu. — 2nd sports rank | | 1.3 | Full name of coach | Egorin S.V. | | 1.4 | Organization | FATUM CAT | | 2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object | | |

Report on the first traverse ascent of Tbau Glavnaya — Tbau North-Western, category 1B, by the FATUM Climbing Team on February 14, 2024.

REPORT on the first traverse of Tbau Glavnaya – Tbau Severo-Zapadnaya, 1B category of complexity, by the KAT Fatum team February 14, 2024 I. Climbing Report | № | 1. General Information | | | :---: | :-----------------------------------: | :-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Tolistikova E.Yu. — 2nd sports rank | | 1.3 | Full name of coach | Egorin S.V. |

Report on the ascent of Tepli Glavnaya peak (4431 m) via the southwest slope, featuring a detailed description of the route and its characteristics.

Alpinist Sports Club "KASKAD" Report On the ascent to Tepli Glavnaya peak 4431 m from the Southwest by the couloir of the Western ridge, presumably 3B cat. diff. Variant of the route by A. ZyuziN. Tepli Glavnaya by the North-West ridge, 3B cat. diff., 1938, number in the classifier 2.8.85. Kirkitadze D.A. Dyakonov B.V. Central Caucasus, October 2013 Climbing participants Leader: Kirkitadze David Amiranovich, II sports category, Kambiileevskoe village. Address: Republic of North Ossetia-Alania, Kambiileevskoe village, Yuri Kuchiev St., 62. Phone: +7 961 822-28-22. Participant: Dyakonov Boris Valerievich, II sports category, Beslan.

The route to the summit of Tepli from the southwest via the couloir of the western ridge, complexity category 3B, length 700-900 m, ascent time 9-12 hours.

Tepli Main via Southwest by the couloir of the West ridge The route is combined A. Zyuzina, cat. 3B, fig. 88, 89, 109, 115, 117. Length 700–900 m, time 9–12 h. From Vladikavkaz (group of 2–8 people): Take the cable car to the village of Nar. Ascend along the dirt road through the Lyia-don river gorge to the village of Liia. Continue along the trail, pass the mineral spring, and follow along the left bank of the Lyadon river to a green meadow with a mineral spring. From here: Ascend via the moraines to the right onto the Southwestern Tepi Glacier. Set up the initial bivouac on the moraine of the glacier or near a small lakelet under the slopes of Komlagat peak.

First ascent of the route, cat. 5B, via the cornices of the Southwest wall on Tbau North-West (2980 m) in the Skalisty Range.

Ascent Passport Rocky Ridge, section number 2.8 in the classification. Tbau N-W 2980 m, via cornices on the South-West wall. Proposed 5B category; first ascent. Route type: rock. Route height difference: 580 m (by altimeter and topographic map). Route length: 950 m. Section length: 5 category – 52 m. 6 category – 27 m.

First ascent description of Tbau-khokh peak (2980 m) via South-West wall, grade 5A, in the Caucasus, Kurtatinsky gorge.

Ascent log. Ascent category: rock. 2.7.1 Ascent area: 2,8; Caucasus: Kurtatinskoye gorge. Summit, route: Mt. Tbau-khokh (2980 m); via the Southwest wall. Estimated difficulty category: 5A category; first ascent. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m; length — 1200 m. Section lengths: 6 — 50 m; 5 — 210 m; 3-4 — 330 m. Average slope: 40°; wall section: 60°. Pitons hammered: rock — 34; chocks — 4; ice screws — none. Number of climbing hours (days): 23 (2) Number of bivouacs: 1st — on approach; 2nd — on the wall; 3rd — on descent. Leader: Glazov A. P. – Master of Sports

Climbing route description for Tbaukhokh peak (3007 m) via the North-West face, with a complexity category of 3B-4A, featuring a detailed path analysis and recommendations.

Passport Ascent class: rock climbing. Ascent area: Caucasus, Rocky Ridge. Peak, route: Tbaukhoh (3007 m), via the left part of the Southwest wall. Estimated category of difficulty: 3B–4A, first ascent. Height difference: 600 m — including 400 m of actual wall climbing — total route length: 900 m — length of wall climbing: 450 m, including: — 35 m of 5th category complexity