Central North Caucasus

23-year-old guide Temur Kurdiani made the first solo ascent of the mixed 5A/M5+ route to the 4,869-meter summit, tackling 80-degree ice and vertical granite in just 4 hours.

According to information from mountain.ru and planetmountain.com: 23-year-old guide and alpinist Temur Kurdiani completed a solo first ascent of a route. The line follows steep, mixed terrain, and the climber graded the difficulty at 5A/M5+. Starting at 4000 meters, the ascent climbs the wall to 4700, where it joins the classic route all the way to the summit at 4869 m. The climb took just 4 hours, despite encountering sections of 80-degree ice and vertical granite. ![](https://summitx.info/media/1/lweRCxxrjJ6xkntiaPFoHsQenFkIyRwP

Report on the ascent of the Mises-Tau peak via the center of the W wall, a Category 5B route, completed by the FA SPb team in 2020.

St. Petersburg Alpinism Championship 2020 (high-altitude technical class) Report on the ascent to the summit of Misses-Tau (4427 m) via the center of the W wall, 5B category of complexity The route was completed by the team of FASPb St. Petersburg 2020 Ascent Passport Central Caucasus, Mizhirgi gorge Section No. 2.5 of the route classifier for mountain peaks Summit Misses-Tau, 4427 m, via the center of the W wall (2002) 4th ascent. Category of complexity – 5B.

First ascent of Kion-Khokh peak (3421 m) by the Western Ridge, category 2B, in Caucasus.

Ascent Log Climbing category — rock. Climbing area: Caucasus, Skalisty Range. Peak Kion-Khokh (3421 m), via the Western ridge. Estimated category complexity 2B, first ascent. Height difference: 400 m — including: the actual wall section — 40 m. Total route length — 1200 m. Length of the wall section — 60 m. Of which: category 5 complexity — 2 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 75°. Average steepness of the route — 30°. Pitons hammered on the route: rock — 6/0. Number of climbing hours/days: 6/1. Overnight stays: none.

Ascent of Koshtan-Tau via the south face from Spakart Pass, 1953, led by A. Naumov.

Ascent of Koshtan-Tau via the Southeast Ridge with descent along the North Ridge Accomplished by the MGS DSO "Trud" team under the leadership of MS USSR A. Naumov. Tikhonov Peak Koshtan-Tau from the south (from the Spartak Pass) Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent object The Koshtan-Tau massif, with a height of 5151 m, is located in the northern spur of the central part of the Main Caucasian Range, and together with the peaks: Dykh-Tau, Mizhirgi, Krumkol,

Ascent of Malaya Ushba via the Northeast Ridge, grade 3B, first ascent by Nikolay Andreev's group in 1978.

ASCENT DOCUMENT First Ascent Category — TECHNICAL CENTRAL CAUCASUS MAIN CAUCASUS RANGE USHBA PLATEAU USHBA MALAYA 4309 m VIA NORTH-EAST RIDGE Proposed difficulty category: 3B Height difference — 200 m (from the plateau) Length of 5A category difficulty sections — 5 m

Description of the group of participants of the Chelyabinsk alpinist ascent led by Gennadiy Berdotin in 1978.

Participants of Burkhanov Participants: BERDOTIN GENNADIY FEDOROVICH — CMS, Chelyabinsk, TRUD Sports Society (leader) AKIMOV NIKOLAY ALEKSANDROVICH — 1st sports category, INSTRUCTOR, Chelyabinsk, TRUD Sports Society Coach: LEVIN MIKHAIL SEMENOVICH — MS, SENIOR INSTRUCTOR Departure on the route — August 11, 1978, Return — August 15, 1978

Description of the ascent via the western spur of the southern wall of Mt. Ailama by the Kuibyshev Regional Council's "Trud" sports society team in 1966, a category 5A climb.

Description of the First Ascent Route To the summit of Peak Айлама (Ailama) via the Western spur of the South wall, climbed on July 20-25, 1966, by a team from the Kuibyshev Regional Council of the "Trud" Sports Society. Ailama is located in the Main Caucasus Range. To the west of the summit, beyond the Unamusso pass ("Бессовестный" or "Shameless"), lies Peak Нуам-Куам (Nuam-Kuam), with a ridge connecting it to the summit of Восточная Шхара (Eastern Shkhara) via peaks 4250 m and 4100 m. Beyond the so-called "saw" of Ailama, the ridge turns south towards the summit of Цурунгал (Tsurungal), and then eastwards through peaks Черная Незнакомка (Black Stranger, пик Алеши Джапаридзе or Aliocha Djaparidze Peak) and Белая Незнакомка (White Stranger) to the Шерри–Вцек (Sherri-Vtsek) pass. The Ailama ridge stretches for a considerable distance. The western ridge has a steepness of up to 55° in its lower half and is characterized by a system of snow and ice undulations with steepness ranging from 25° to 75° in its upper part. The eastern ridge of the summit is primarily rocky and is known as the "Pила Айламы" (Ailama Saw), indicating its highly serrated nature. Along the entire length of the massif's ridge, steep walls with significant relative heights drop to the north and south; those to the north are mostly snow and ice, while those to the south are more rocky. Due to the remoteness of this mountain region from permanent alpine camps, until 1965, only a few sports groups, always consisting of high-class climbers, ascended Ailama. Most of these groups followed the ridge of the massif, undertaking extensive traverses of the crest.

Description of the 1B category of difficulty route to Mukal peak via the Eastern ridge from the Baksan valley.

Mukal Mukal via the Eastern ridge (the route by S. Golubev, M. Galkin, M. Zeidler, A. Kuchar, P. Panyutin, N. Steynogl, V. Shteyn 1B cat. diff., 20 August 1914). From the village Verkhniy Baksan ascend along the road by the left bank of the Kyrtyk river. Having entered the Kyrtyk gorge, immediately turn left onto the trail and ascend along the first stream — the Syltransu river — through the pine forest and further across alpine meadows, after which the trail ends. From here, ascend along the talus and moraines by the river towards the Syltrangel lake. At the south-eastern (left) bank of the lake is the initial bivouac. From the village Verkhniy Baksan 4.5–5.5 hrs. From the lake, ascend along the talus, then along the glacier to the saddle between the peaks of Syltran on the left and Mukal on the right. From the saddle, turn right and ascend along the snowy slope to the large gendarme of the Eastern ridge of the Mukal summit. Bypass the gendarme along the snowy slope on the right and then along the snowy ridge-slope, then ascend along simple rocks to the summit of Mukal. From the saddle, about 1 hr. Descent follows the ascent route. Duration of the route is 2 days. “Baksanskaya dolina”, A.F. Naumov

Ascent to the North summit of Kayashkishubaashi via the North-Eastern spur, category 1B, with a detailed description of the route and necessary equipment.

The North summit of Kayashkishubashi via the North-Eastern buttress - Cat. 1B (G. Stepanov, Yu. Vuslik, O. Degtyarev, V. Eremeev, V. Ershov, V. Kompanovsky, V. Kos, O. Lomakin, D. Muzhev, V. Nagolny, A. Snesarev and R. Khabatov - December 7, 1955, Fig. 33). From Mukhol village, follow the pack trail up, then along the slope of the right bank of the Chainashki river. At the foot of Chuprobashi peak - bivouac. From Mukhol village - 6-7 hours. From the bivouac, ascend the scree, then the snowy slopes to a wide couloir. Ascend the right side of the couloir; 60-70-meter "sheep's foreheads" in the middle part of the couloir are traversed via the central gully; further ascent on scree leads to the Eastern snow cirque formed by Kayashkishubashi and Chuprobashi peaks. Traverse the scree, then the snow-ice fields and slopes of the Unnamed glacier left-upwards, below the left slopes of the North-Eastern buttress of Kayashkishubashi peak. Below the buttress - bivouac. From the first bivouac - 7-8 hours. From the plateau, ascend simple and moderately difficult rock terrain ("live" rocks!) to the North-Eastern buttress of the peak. Along the edge of rocks and snow, in places via broken simple rocks, ascend to the summit rock pitch, 30-40 meters, and via it (belay!) reach the North summit of Kayashkishubashi. From the bivouac below the buttress - 3-4 hours. Descent via the ascent route to the bivouac below the buttress - 1.5-2 hours. Recommendations for climbers: Number of participants - 4-20 people. Initial bivouac - grassy slopes, Chuprobashi peak. Departure time - 4-5 am. Equipment: main rope - 2×30 m; auxiliary cord - 1.5 m; rock pitons - 2-3; rock hammer - 1; carabiners - 7-8; tent - 1. Bivouac locations - on the Unnamed glacier and on simple rocks of the North-Eastern buttress.